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Posted

Looking good. I've used washers behind the mic tips before, but never bondo. Interesting idea.

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Posted

After wearing the armor and walking around for about 20 minutes tonight, I already know some areas I want to modify - I discovered a few spots that are biting me frequently enough that I need to do something about it.

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Still need to install the helmet liner and source some clips for the TD. Finally, need to decide on a good method to get the shins to stay down over the boots. I've read a few of the options out there, but I haven't figured out what's going to be the best for my situation.

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Posted

So, I'm not so sure about this Angelus thing. I prepped by sanding, painted 3 coats, then did the acrylic finisher. Shins are sanded at the ends, I verified there are no sharp edges. Just friction from how tight the bottom of the shins are (I have skinny ankles).

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I guess it's time for TK Boots, once they get some sz 11 in stock.

Posted

You're coming along really fast, looks great.Ā  It would be tough to have painted boots, I don't know how you'd keep them from wearing down like they did in your test.

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Love those wands!Ā  Lots of multi-talented people around here.

Posted

Appreciate it. Got a great tip from a fellow Georgian: attach felt to the insides of the base of the shins. I'll get to sanding and repainting the boots this weekend.

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I submitted for 501st approval this evening.

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Posted

Good luck on approval :D

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Thanks Glen. I appreciate any critique, as well!

Posted (edited)

Very nice action pic! You should be approved easilyĀ  :)

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However, if you're aiming for EIB and Centurion, i have few critiques:

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- Your elbow gaps look too wide. You could easily reduce them by adding a strap between the biceps and the forearms and by lowering a bit your biceps from under your shoulder bells (biceps don't have to be under the shoulder bells).

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- About the sizing of the limbs:

Ā both your biceps and right forearm look kind of wide and could benefit from a bit of re-trimming IMO.

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- Belt:

I think the belt's left snap should be moved-up (or set a new one) on your abdominal plate to even the belt lining.

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-Butt plate:

Is there any strapping on the crotch tab? because if not i encourage you to add one, this is a very important snap.

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- Helmet:

Sorry to say but your tube stripes on your helmet are reversed. The up of the last stripes (near the front) should slightly lean forward like on the pic below:

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Edited by The5thHorseman
Posted

Also for eib the belt boxes need to be at the ends of the belt. I kept mine in place using Velcro on the straps.

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The shoulder bridges also look a little strange as they go back so far on the back plate and don't appear even in the pix but it may just be a repositioning thing. Also I'm not familiar with MTK armor. Good luck :)

Posted

Thanks Germain and Leo!

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I'm in the process of fixing quite a few of these things - especially the ones that are common themes!

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I'm a little confused on the elbow gap. There are so many threads detailing the "hook" method of the bicep, and that's how this is connected. I get trying to minimize the gap there, but did the original actors just have some stubby arms or something? :lol: I'd prefer the forearms to not be connected via straps, but if I can't find another solution to close the gap well enough, I guess it'll have to be done!

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Biceps and thighs were intentionally left a little large, as I'm in the middle of a weight gain program for football. By the time I'm ready to submit for EIB, this whole kit will probably look significantly different on me. The forearm is a different thing altogether. I *think* it's due to the foam and it's not centered in the obvious larger size photo from the rear... but the bigger right forearm was brought up a couple times in other conversations and everyone seemed to think that's normal. I may be able to retrim that one, but getting CA apart is going to be a bit of a challenge!

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Believe it or not, the belt isn't attached at all! And it only slid down a little bit after walking around in the armor for about 5-10 minutes before this photo was taken. I'm planning on adding velcro instead of the snaps after talking with a few of the guys at the Legoland troop - so that'll be fixed.

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Noted on the drop boxes, but that's so odd... it is indeed affixed by velcro and it looks fine after I take it off. I'll post photos in a bit.

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Right strap is being fixed... E6000 is curing :)

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Butt plate does NOT have snaps in it yet. The crotch has the riveted strap, just haven't put in the snaps yet.

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And dammit, I knew it looked wrong when I was putting it on, but I swore I saw it the other way! I'll order some new stripes when I place an order for some other bits from Trooperbay.

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Lastly, I tried just touching up the boots, and that's not going to cut it for me. I'm sanding them tonight and repainting again. Once snowpacalypse II is done in Atlanta, I'll pickup some felt to attempt to make sure this doesn't happen again.

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Thanks guys!

Posted (edited)

A few more build pics I didn't post.

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Right thigh:

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Ammo pack is attached via two split rivets right on the "bumps" of the end of the thigh. A small piece of Velcro holds the center ammo pack on the thigh to ensure it does not slip down. Curved bottoms of the ammo pack.

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Ammo pack on both sides:

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Ammo pack split rivet:

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Edited by bzb
Posted

Nice clips on TD!

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I haven't used CA glue before. You may want to ask around before doing anything with the forearms.

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The bicep hooks I believe work if your arms are shorter. I can't use them.

Posted

gallery_12157_15_46182.jpggallery_12157_15_9179.jpgI know how much you LOVE being critiqued.........I agree with your belt height. This needs to be raised to even with or slightly overlapping the button plate. You forearms are big. You should re-size them. By doing this, you will find it much more comfortable to wear. Another fix is the cover strips on the rear of your thighs and calves. The cover strip on your calf should only come to base of the ridge at the top of the grieve itself as pictured above. The cover strip on the thigh should come to but not exceed the ridge at the bottom.

Posted

Haha, I want it looking right, though!

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Man, I first started reading your post and was scratching my head with: "why the hell is he posting photos of the legs?" lol

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Didn't realize that translated to the rear, as well. I did notice it on the fronts, but so many of the backs look so different, I figured it was a matter of fitment. I can definitely take off some of the cover strips - should be no problem.

Posted (edited)

So fresh and so clean. Hit the scratched up parts with 100 grit, then did the whole boot in 220 grit to reprep and take off the old acrylic finish layer.

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Gonna let these dry overnight then hit them with a coat of acrylic finisher again. Won't put the shins on until I can get some felt to protect them from the terror of the shins.

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Pulled off the right shoulder strap, reattached with E6000 again. Appears a good bit more balanced at first look, but I'll test fit it again tomorrow after it's cured overnight.

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Edited by bzb
Posted

Pulled off the cover strip (nervous!) and trimmed the inside of the right forearm. My hand can *just* fit through the opening, and the top is certainly more snug now. Good news is they match size a great deal better now.

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Also adjusted the cover strips on the back of the shins and thighs.

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The thigh bottom ripped out a bit when I pulled off the cover strip. I'm assuming I just use some homemade ABS paste, sand, and polish to get it filled in... yes?

Posted

ABS paste sounds like a good plan. May want to add a small piece of reinforcement strip on the backside too. Small piece of ABS and Adhesive.

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Looks good.

Posted

Thanks for the reassurance. Will the extra ingredients in nail polish remover be a problem as the solvent?

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As long as its 100% acetone it should be ok, I have a buddy that just used nail polish remover, and he said it was ok. He also recommended that you make the paste like a thickish paint and apply like that. He said it made for easier sanding.

Posted

The bottle is called "100% acetone nail polish remover" but I was worried that the other ingredients might affect it. It doesn't appear to have affected it any, as it made the paste in only a couple hours. Fun!

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Here's the original gouge. CA glue holds a lot better than I thought it would.

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Laid down first coat.

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After about 4 very thinly applied coats, with 60 grit hit after about 30 minutes each layer.

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*almost* final product after 60, 100, 150, 220, 320, 400 grit. I still haven't acquired any Novus yet, but once I do I'll probably get some wet sandpaper and polish it up.

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Posted

Inside, I glued a backer piece from scrap.

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Closeup of the almost final product. You can see a slight discoloration, but I'm hoping after the polish it won't be as noticeable.

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