Thin RS Lids, Is This Normal?

[kylebeagle[TK]]

Thank you Kyle I was actually thinking of messaging you about some of these matters..

 

Cool...

 

You are welcome to!

[vecspeed12]

Armor looks good. If the chest is riding up, you can always detach the middle top chest bracket. It helps. My armor does that as well but i just let it ride my neck.

[Cantina Security[501st]]

Armor looks good. If the chest is riding up, you can always detach the middle top chest bracket. It helps. My armor does that as well but i just let it ride my neck.

Sounds like a good idea.

 

What do they glue the elastic with? Regular CA glue? Just in case I want to put it back.

[Cantina Security[501st]]

Thank you fellas for all the feedback. I am enjoying my RS, just need a few "tweaks " and she'll be ok... Already straightened the brow trim...

Need to tighten up the gray on the frown, and reinforce the mic tip area, and it will be much better...

[iconoclasta_88[501st]]

Hey.

I am on my phone and am too lazy to read all on the small screen and images are not loading.

But since it is TD you are talking about and my armor (my name) was mentioned, I'll come back tomorrow from my computer and try to give my opinion too.

 

Have an RS bucket and a Gino that are very thin. Thinner than my 1.5mm TM. But both have great details. No big deal if you are careful.

 

Will post more tomorrow.

 

Saludos.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Sounds like a good idea.

 

What do they glue the elastic with? Regular CA glue? Just in case I want to put it back.

You don't need to unglue it. Just loosen the screws holding the brackets and detach the elastic loop before putting back the bracket and screws.

[Cantina Security[501st]]

Thanks Fellas... I appreciate the feedback. I sent RS a couple emails and have not received any response. Not any messages that imply I want a refund, just questions on how to fix my problems.IE: paint used, and weathering procedure, just to make sure I can match what they have. I'm an artist, so painting... I can handle...lol , I have been very polite and understanding, but still no response...

[Locitus[Admin]]

I'm pretty sure they use the same humbrol paints you see people here use.

[tk0896[TK]]

Nice looking armor Jason!  Just need to flip those mirrored images! 

[pandatrooper[TK]]

I can't comment on the armor as I've not handled an RS Props in real life, but I hear the detail is very sharp because of the lineage of the original mold and the thinner plastic, which captures great detail.

 

Weathering is a pretty subjective thing. Some people like to do it with one color, some like to do layers, some use brushes, some use sponges, some like it heavy, some like it light. It really depends on what YOU like.

 

Personally I find your current weathering a bit too light in some areas (overall it's not heavy enough IMO) and the chest mark is too "obvious".  No offence meant to you or RS Props. That's just my personal feedback from staring at Sandtroopers for years now.

 

I know Rolf does a great job using one color, but I prefer the 2 color oily / dirt approach. I made a big thread about the oily / dirt look on MEPD. You can read up on it here.  I did a lot of research on the original weathering and the original costume guys are quoted as to how they did it, so I replicated it with experiments using real dirt and oil.  I replicated the look with much safer and more durable acrylic paints.

 

http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=7274

 

Here's my how to on weathering. Might be a bit heavy looking for some folks, but I feel this is a more original way of doing it.

 

http://forum.mepd.net/?showtopic=7290

Keep in mind too: it depends if you want your TD to look like it did on "film" (as we remember it on the big screen or DVD / Blu ray) or what it looked like in real life.  The originals were weathered with a mixture of oil and dirt.  On "film" it looks grey because it's washed out by lighting, sunlight, filters, etc.

 

My armor weathered in the oily dirty style

 

Here's a comparison of the original Stop that ship TD (screen grab on the left) and my ATA TD weathered, in trying to replicate the original look (the other 2 images on the right). You can see how much I had to weather the armor to get that look.

 

Edited January 17, 2014 by pandatrooper

[Cantina Security[501st]]

I can't comment on the armor as I've not handled an RS Props in real life, but I hear the detail is very sharp because of the lineage of the original mold and the thinner plastic, which captures great detail.

 

Weathering is a pretty subjective thing. Some people like to do it with one color, some like to do layers, some use brushes, some use sponges, some like it heavy, some like it light. It really depends on what YOU like.

 

Personally I find your current weathering a bit too light in some areas (overall it's not heavy enough IMO) and the chest mark is too "obvious".  No offence meant to you or RS Props. That's just my personal feedback from staring at Sandtroopers for years now.

 

I know Rolf does a great job using one color, but I prefer the 2 color oily / dirt approach. I made a big thread about the oily / dirt look on MEPD. You can read up on it here.  I did a lot of research on the original weathering and the original costume guys are quoted as to how they did it, so I replicated it with experiments using real dirt and oil.  I replicated the look with much safer and more durable acrylic paints.

 

http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=7274

 

Here's my how to on weathering. Might be a bit heavy looking for some folks, but I feel this is a more original way of doing it.

 

http://forum.mepd.net/?showtopic=7290

Keep in mind too: it depends if you want your TD to look like it did on "film" (as we remember it on the big screen or DVD / Blu ray) or what it looked like in real life.  The originals were weathered with a mixture of oil and dirt.  On "film" it looks grey because it's washed out by lighting, sunlight, filters, etc.

 

My armor weathered in the oily dirty style

 

Here's a comparison of the original Stop that ship TD (screen grab on the left) and my ATA TD weathered, in trying to replicate the original look (the other 2 images on the right). You can see how much I had to weather the armor to get that look.

 

Wow , cool Terry you are the man... I have seen your videos, and I love your approach and teqniques . I really appreciate your feedback. I am trying to replicate the TD sergeant with the white pauldron earlier in this thread. I believe I used one of your references .

 

I had RS build the suit, and they weathered it as well. I notice the trooper I am replicating was very little weathering, or so it appears in photos. I am going for swat, so I need the detail to be correct. I did start a thread on MEPD, so I'm sure I will get some more feedback such as what you suggested.

 

Again thank you for putting your thoughts in. Do you mind if I message you about further process to get this correct?

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Feel free to ask questions.

[iconoclasta_88[501st]]

Terry developed one of the two most popular techniques over the MEPD. The other one being the single pigment by sir dave. Trust me when I say he knows his weathering! And it is awesome.

 

I will post some references from behind the scenes and will try to find something about your specific trooper to replicate. Maybe we get lucky even if it is not the most popular one.

 

But allow me to go back to my comp on Monday.

 

And, hope you guys don't mind that I do that over the MEPD, Sandtrooper topic after all.

 

Saludos.

Edited January 18, 2014 by iconoclasta_88

[Cantina Security[501st]]

Juan, thank you very much for the help. I will see you over at MEPD.

 

Terry, I'm sure I'll be needing some help. Thank you .

[Stormy320]

Seriously man - I think it looks awesome.

 

I like the weathering style.  You look right off the set.

 

[walt[501st]]

Well..I wanna pop in here...i have an RS as well..yes its thin...i did add a coating of fiberglass inside the lid and nowhere else..I have had that over a year now and it has seen abuse! No cracking...i can run ,jump and do stairs with no problems......yes guys i did say run!.......weathering...i used fullers earth on mind this time...i used pandas on my last TD and sold that to a buddy.so its been on for 2 years and never....never needed a touch up...my fullers earth..ya it gets touched up......one thing i see and i dont remember..as i just woke up and was sniffen rondo all night....calfs...did RS use the same for both sides??it looks like you have a set of the same...as far as coms go with the boys at RS. ya a bit slow......nice kids lid!

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

And, hope you guys don't mind that I do that over the MEPD, Sandtrooper topic after all. Saludos.

 

Yeah Juan! Quick before one of us takes a buffer and some polish to your armor

 

(but please do link here once you post on MEPD) 

 

-Eric

[iconoclasta_88[501st]]

Yeah Juan! Quick before one of us takes a buffer and some polish to your armor

 

(but please do link here once you post on MEPD)

 

-Eric

 

Of course. Actually the topic started about the same time here and there.

 

I'll post some more directed comments over ther and link both threads to each other. Just in case anyone wants to follow the whole conversation.

 

Saludos.

 

PS. If anyone else wants to dirty up their armor, jut let us know. Just saying. lol.

[CRISTONAMO]

Ive seen and held RS armor, It looks amazing, its beautiful, and very flexible and thin. but it was so durable and the most accurate armor out there.

[Holnave (evan_loh)[TK]]

I have RS PVC armour. So I'm guessing the flexibility might be different. The material and quality it self is very durable to me. I can say that because I built it and am a very clumsy person myself!

I'm glad it turned out fine though (and that's thanks to the folks here and in my garrison!)

 

The helmet seems a little thin but trust me it's pretty hardy. I actually stuff it in my backpack (my luggage bag doesnt have space ) when I go for troops and it turns out fine

and if you're worried about the bumps and curves and how the helmet doesn't seem symmetrical, that's because RS managed to capture the look and bumps (and flaws maybe?) of the original helmet!

The only cracks I get are from the return edges on my chest armour due to me not storing it properly in my luggage bag but those are easily fixed with ABS paste and reinforced with cut out scrap plastic behind the cracks

 

A member once stated that going screen accurate has a "craptastic" look. And I actually do love that look!

 

Your armour looks amazing btw! and I can't wait to see your weathering if you're planning to weather it more

[Cantina Security[501st]]

Thanks guys...

 

Yes I do plan on weathering it more accurately , but I will keep that portion of the thread on MEPD. As far as reinforcement , I have a few ideas , and will post them here on this thread. RS has been understanding of the matter, even offering a replacement helmet. So, I am still happy with my kit, and will address the minor adjustments as needed.

 

Does anyone have any cool tricks for lining the inside, say rhino liner, or something similar?Remove lens, Mask off the eyes and teeth, possibly add washers?

[Cantina Security[501st]]

 

Amazing what a couple washers will do.Might go with smaller washers. Really beefed this thing up. I have been looking for that liner for the rest of the inside, but not sure if i want to add that much weight , and maybe will try just painting the inside.

 

 

Mic-Tips Nice and sturdy.