Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Starting our with the usual "box shot"... Couldn't wait so an opened box will have to do.

Edited by bluetick450r
  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Looking forward to the build :D

Posted (edited)

LoL Dave...Ā  I think I'll just keep my camera hanging near the door once I've been told that my box is on the way.

Ā 

I'm exactly with everyone else:Ā  Congrats!Ā  Looking forward to the build, and NOM NOM NOM!

Ā 

I couldn't have said it better, so I simply did not try.

Edited by Dark CMF
Posted

Finished most of the trimming and still very impressed with ATA works material. Much easier to work with than MOT stuff. Will post some pics soon.

Ā 

BTW, what is the best way to post pics on this forum????

Posted
Finished most of the trimming and still very impressed with ATA works material. Much easier to work with than MOT stuff. Will post some pics soon.

Ā 

BTW, what is the best way to post pics on this forum????

I use Photobucket

Ā 

Ā 

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ok here is the missing empty box shot.

Ā 

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a628/TKheehaw/smallbox_zps92e6dce1.jpg

Ā 

Ā 

After all the initial trimming, finally started the task of gluing stuff. May have approached this a bit different (and slower), but it seemed to do OK.

Ā 

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a628/TKheehaw/Forearmglue-up1_zpsb63827e3.jpg

Ā 

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a628/TKheehaw/Forearmglue-up_zpsf09ac200.jpg

Ā 

Glued the inside strip of the biceps and forearms first and made sure the fit was going to be decent. Did have to trim some extra material off and align the opposing parts to be glued later. No pics of this, didn't feel it could add value to the post.

Posted
Posted

And a pic of the Thermal detonator. A 2" grey conduit pipe worked perfect! So this one is on the slim end of the range for detonators. I think you can get them a bit larger on here, but this one that ATA supplied looks great and will do nicely.

Ā 

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a628/TKheehaw/Thermaldet_zps20cefa52.jpg

Ā 

During the interim, I researched the boots required and

Posted

cont. from above...Ā Ā  was skeptical about which ones to buy, but took a chance and sent TKboots an email and they just happen to have my size!

Ā 

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a628/TKheehaw/TKboots_zps90899f9c.jpgese

Ā 

These boots are REALLY comfortable! Everyone here on FISD talks highly about these things and now I see why. I normally stand all day and I wouldn't take issue with wearing these to work....Ā  If I could keep them from getting botched up. So back in the box these babies go.

Posted

Assembled the greaves and thigh armor pretty much the same way as the forearm and biceps.

Ā 

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a628/TKheehaw/FinishedGreaves_zpsca82f428.jpg

Ā 

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a628/TKheehaw/FinishedThighs_zps8254faef.jpg

Ā 

One thigh seemed to be a bit longer than the other....Ā  Any body else seen this or is it a common armor variation?

Posted

Hi Dave, try posting the IMG code instead of the link it will make your progress easier to view. My first armor was ATA , have fun with the build. Ā 

Posted

Thanks SCTrooper!Ā Ā  IMG code from here on out.Ā  Was curious on which linked worked better for everyone.

Posted

How do you like the CA glue? I used it on my Shock Trooper with the accelerant , and it was nice, fast too. I just notice everyone using E6000 on the TK's.... What is the real difference ? Does the E6000 make it easier to take apart if needed? I always wondered why most people use E6000 over the CA glue on FISD. Most troopers on the Clone Detachment use CA glue with zip kicker.

Ā 

Must be a matter of preference .

Ā 

I think the E6000 makes it easy to make adjustments during assembly. The CA glue, you better have it straight because that stuff goes off fast.

Ā 

Nice armor, good luck with your build.

Posted

Ca glue is just that.....instantly permanent and has little to no forgiveness. In my experience, clean all surfaces with alcohol, mark where you want and where you don't want glue, rehearse your proceedure, then glue. I would use CA to glue up your inside connecting strips if you use them, then glue your cover strips with e6000

Posted

How do you like the CA glue? I used it on my Shock Trooper with the accelerant , and it was nice, fast too. I just notice everyone using E6000 on the TK's.... What is the real difference ? Does the E6000 make it easier to take apart if needed? I always wondered why most people use E6000 over the CA glue on FISD. Most troopers on the Clone Detachment use CA glue with zip kicker.

Ā 

Must be a matter of preference .

Ā 

I think the E6000 makes it easy to make adjustments during assembly. The CA glue, you better have it straight because that stuff goes off fast.

Ā 

Nice armor, good luck with your build.

Ā 

It is a matter of preference. Gazmosis, in the next post, is correct that CA's areĀ much less forgiving than E6000. CA (cyanoacrylates) are basically super glues and set up like a rock, but on the other hand E6000 is formulated to have some flex to it and the tech sheets state a shore A hardness of about 80 (stiff rubber).Ā I've used E6000 on my e-11 resin project and you can cut into the "glue" to free up parts and re-glue if nessasary.Ā  E6000's main chemical, tetrachloroethylene, is actually used in the dry cleaning industry heavily and it probably slipped into the adhesive industry by mistake. But it is still pretty good for more non-permantent bonds.

Ā 

I tend to over do things, so the more permanent CA's are in line with the way I do things. And Gazmosis is correct again, that youĀ have to know just where you want things to go before you start applying the CA's.Ā  And be prepared to lose a few layers of skin off your finger tips.

Ā 

I've tried zip kicker and it will make the CA's even less forgiving. CA's are normally moisture activated and atmospheric conditions can effect how quick the glue sets. Presently, in my area of the US, theĀ relative humidityĀ is pretty low, so I have decent control of the set time.

Ā 

There are also a few spots I'll have to touch up due to some wayward CA drips.Ā  Thankfully some decending grit sandpaper, Novaris polish, and elbow greaseĀ will take care of those.

Posted

I used E6000 on all of the armor, downside was drying time but plus side was it flexes and is easily separated if you need to make changes :D

Posted

E6000 is the way to go. just in case you make a mistake. I have used CA with a kicker, to make Ā alignment tabs for the legs and arms if needed. Tabs are easy to remove. I know some people that glue their whole suit together with CA. Ā If you do, be careful.

20140127_153753_zps917630a6.jpgĀ 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

And back to the build....

Ā 

Here is a pic of the painted ab bottons....Ā  I used Hombrol #14 French Blue.

Ā 

Abbottons_zpsd5350d07.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...