The5thHorseman[501st] Posted December 9, 2013 Report Posted December 9, 2013 (edited) Well, in term of accuracy, i would tend to even it. Also, strange thing that you have taken out all the return edges on your forearms but you care about this one . Edited December 9, 2013 by The5thHorseman Quote
Rawgee Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Posted December 9, 2013 Salut Martin, si tu as besoin d'aide avec la traduction ne te gênes pas à me contacter Fred Merci Fred, jusqu'à maintenant ca va, se sont les termes/expressions spécifiques à la construction de l'armure qui me pose problèmes parfois mais je fini toujours par trouver! Si y'a quoi que se soi je te fais signe, merci encore! Well, in term of accuracy, i would tend to even it. Also, strange thing that you have taken out all the return edges on your forearms but you care about this one . Well it seems to me that on screen there is no return edges on the forearms and thats why i got rid of them and i just pop my ANH blu-ray in and it looks like there is no return edges on the biceps as well... Quote
Rawgee Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Posted December 9, 2013 I took the return edge off of the bottom of my biceps. Several people told me it's not needed and it will dig into your biceps constantly. I personally was considering keeping the curve at the bottom. I will be interested to hear what others have to say about it. Did you remove the edges on top also? Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted December 9, 2013 Report Posted December 9, 2013 The top doesn't really matter as most of the time it will be under the shoulder bells, just leave a little one, especially at the indentation area. Quote
Rawgee Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Posted December 9, 2013 The top doesn't really matter as most of the time it will be under the shoulder bells, just leave a little one, especially at the indentation area. Thats what i tought! Thanks i'll post pictures of my progression later! Quote
Tolo[TK] Posted December 10, 2013 Report Posted December 10, 2013 Get your suit done and approved. On troop en Janvier!! lol Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk Quote
Rawgee Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Posted December 10, 2013 (edited) Get your suit done and approved. On troop en Janvier!! lol Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk LOL! Dude, come in Quebec City and give me a hand...lol I really thought i could do that in a week but it is a bit more complicated than i thought and i don't want to mess it up... But i'll sure have some spare time next week during the holidays! Edited December 10, 2013 by Rawgee Quote
Tolo[TK] Posted December 10, 2013 Report Posted December 10, 2013 Grouille-toi d'avoir fini pour le 18 janvier. Ont va t'accepter même sans être dans le 501! Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk Quote
Rawgee Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Posted December 11, 2013 Ok so i finally manage to do the biceps, man they gave me a hard time! NE Armor is definitely for bigger size people... The left one with the spoon print was the easiest, but the right one... The two parts were ok if you have big arms, a little trimming and that's it but if not, problems starts... Unfortunately i got so concentrated in the process that i didn't take as much photos as i wanted! But here is the few that i took, hope it help and tell me what you think... Here is the right biceps, as you can see, a lot of trimming and cutting needed to be done! I even had to twist it a bit to make everything fit ok. I had to trim the bottom side to make it straight otherwise it had a curve... Final results: (please believe me it wasn't easy, if any of you NE builders need help just ask)My progress so far! Oh i forgot, i got my TK Boots in the mail!!! Quote
Barcoder[TK] Posted December 11, 2013 Report Posted December 11, 2013 Excellent progress so far! Great job on trimming those biceps. I am currently fighting with my sniper plate... I think I'm winning? Not sure yet... Quote
Holnave (evan_loh)[TK] Posted December 11, 2013 Report Posted December 11, 2013 Your build looks very good! And using screen caps from the movie is the advice that has always been given to me. Having some space on the wrists are fine you can add foam underneath for a better fit if you think it's too loose Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted December 12, 2013 Report Posted December 12, 2013 (edited) I'm always quoting that: it's better to have a wrist gap than an elbow gap! Unfortunately i couln't find the proper pic showing it in the "Photo References" section, so this time i spend some time to make that screenshot. And i think it's pretty obvious when you look at those two troopers : (just don't mind the popped out belt!) And it looks like you nailed those biceps!! Great work! Fast and efficient Edited December 12, 2013 by The5thHorseman Quote
Rawgee Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) Thanks Germain, actually its the slack inside of my forearm that bothers me but some pieces of foam will do the job for now and i might try to re-do it at some point... My local hobby store told me he has some stuff to "unglue" so i might give it a shot! As for the biceps yeah they came out better than i thought! Now i'm working on the Shins, my 11 years son helped me to draw the line in the back for sizing. I like to ask him to help me, i want to make him feel he's part of the project! Here is my left Shin with the Knee Plate on, not sure if i am going to use velcro or hook and eyes method for the rear(calf). This is a 20mm cover strip and it will probably be the same in the back, i am not a huge guy so i think i will be able to respect all of the sizes standards for cover strips. (5'10", 180lbs) Edited December 13, 2013 by Rawgee Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted December 13, 2013 Report Posted December 13, 2013 Looks perfect! In term of closure strapping i would recommand the hooks, accurate and extremely efficient. It's a bit tricky to put them on but once you got the technique it's really good. And don't forget, it's the outer half of the shin which covers the inner Quote
Barcoder[TK] Posted December 14, 2013 Report Posted December 14, 2013 I went with the hook method as it seems to give you a nice closed look in the back. Velcro seems to stick out more... However, it would be a lot easier to close the shins. I have not found my "groove" yet with using the hooks. I assume that comes with practice. Totally awesome in getting your son to help out on the build! Good Father/Son bonding time. Quote
Rawgee Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Posted December 14, 2013 Looks perfect! In term of closure strapping i would recommand the hooks, accurate and extremely efficient. It's a bit tricky to put them on but once you got the technique it's really good. And don't forget, it's the outer half of the shin which covers the inner Thanks, i really appreciate your help and advices! I went with the hook method as it seems to give you a nice closed look in the back. Velcro seems to stick out more... However, it would be a lot easier to close the shins. I have not found my "groove" yet with using the hooks. I assume that comes with practice. Totally awesome in getting your son to help out on the build! Good Father/Son bonding time. Absolutely! Today he asked me if we could make him a Jawa costume...haha As for the hooks i just can't figure how will i be able to close it if the hooks are inside and i can't reach in... I really want to go with the velcro because of that. If i don't have space for my fingers to reach in, how you do that? Right Shin/calf done: Both cover strips close's on the inside (Thanks Germain) Front view: My progress so far: I'll try to post a picture of me wearing all that stuff tomorrow Now i need to go buy the stuff that i don't have yet, which would be: Snaps Split rivets?? Do i really need those? For what and how many? White elastics (multiple sizes) Black elastics (multiple sizes) Frown screen for the teeth holes Foam Am i missing something? I have all the elastic sizes write down on a paper. Quote
Tolo[TK] Posted December 14, 2013 Report Posted December 14, 2013 (edited) You need split and cap rivets. Split rivets for your ab and kidney plate and for the crotch. Cap rivet for the tights ammo pack. I got my kit of rivets from Echo in the ongoing sales on the board. Not expensive and they are accurate. Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk Edited December 14, 2013 by Tolo Quote
maxsteele[TK] Posted December 14, 2013 Report Posted December 14, 2013 As for the hooks i just can't figure how will i be able to close it if the hooks are inside and i can't reach in... I really want to go with the velcro because of that. If i don't have space for my fingers to reach in, how you do that? I'm going to use velcro to close my shins. This is what I got: http://www.lowes.com/pd_184416-388-90595_0__?productId=1052615&Ntt=industrial+velcro&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dindustrial%2Bvelcro&facetInfo= Quote
Holnave (evan_loh)[TK] Posted December 14, 2013 Report Posted December 14, 2013 This is how I did my shins, hope it helps I use a small screwdriver to remove the hooks away from the holes as it can get tricky to use your fingers Quote
Barcoder[TK] Posted December 15, 2013 Report Posted December 15, 2013 Yes, hooks are tricky. Here's how I get them closed... While sitting, I line up the hooks by maneuvering both sides an line up the hook. (you can see it peeking through)... I have just enough room to squeeze a finger under the armour to help secure the hook. My hooks face towards the armour. (Different than the other picture posted on your thread.) I then line up the top hook and again, I have just enough space to squeeze a bit of my finger in to help out... (Side note - use size 3 hooks. I mistakenly got size 2 but have made them work.) (The little bracing tab I added sits behind the top & helps keep it flush & straight.) I hope this helps give you an idea how they work. True, Velcro would be much easier... Oh yeah, definitely get the cap & split rivets from Echo. I just got mine... (I couldn't find any locally....such a pain) Best of luck. Quote
Holnave (evan_loh)[TK] Posted December 15, 2013 Report Posted December 15, 2013 It's a lot easier to have the hooks facing inwards (hooking outside in). It will save you a lot of trouble plus it's more accurate Quote
Barcoder[TK] Posted December 16, 2013 Report Posted December 16, 2013 It's a lot easier to have the hooks facing inwards (hooking outside in). It will save you a lot of trouble plus it's more accurate Agreed. It would be much easier. (I did mine facing outward to help reduce the gap a bit more.) Quote
Rawgee Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Posted January 9, 2014 Ok been away for a while, Christmas time obviously but also my wife had a shoulder surgery, basically one arm is n/s... So i had to take care of her and step up in the house and just to add a little bit to that, my daughter had a concussion... Anyway back on the build, both thighs are done now, i realized i am not too good at taking picture during the process but here is the final product: i need to fit the knee ammo pack or battery pack...lol People seems to call this part whatever they feel like... haha So i was wondering (i didn't find the answer on the boards) what is the length it should have from the last box to the edge? And what did you use to do the round angle at the edge, can i use my TD or there is an angle degree i should know? This chart doesn't say how much i need to cut... I just trimmed the shoulders straps and belt: And now i am not sure what i should do next... I could do the TD, i had aluminum strips laying around here 1inch large, 2.5mm thick and long enough... Would that be good? For the rest my problem is that i wasn't able to find any of the rivets locally, so i am waiting for Echo's kit...I think i will start trimming the body parts and i might take a look at the helmet... omg can't believe i just wrote that... This helmet scares the crap out of me.. :/ Finally i chose to go with velcro to close the calves, i might change it later but for now that will be the best for me i think, i notice most of you guys calves seems to be closing easily, mine i have to force them together to close them, means the elastics will have a great amount of tension which results in very hard to remove, correct me if i am wrong but i did some testings yesterday and i wasn't really convinced that will work. I need to go out to buy the velcro, i'll take a picture of me wearing boots, calves and thighs later! Quote
Barcoder[TK] Posted January 10, 2014 Report Posted January 10, 2014 I ended up using the bottom of a spray paint can to get the correct radius for the battery pack/knee thingy (that's my word for it.) I had seen a few people use that in their builds. Your thighs turned out awesome! Good job. Quote
Rawgee Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Posted January 10, 2014 (edited) Thanks Peter! I will try that i just wanted to make sure there wasn't a guideline to follow... Here is what the bottom looks like so far: (Without the knee ammo pack, as soon as i receive the rivets i will install it) Edited January 10, 2014 by Rawgee Quote
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