Yellowing armour

[Tkste]

Got my armour out last week only to find it's going a bit yellow in places . : (

I have fx armour , helmet is fine ( not a fx).

What's my options , any one tried re spraying one ? Or will it have to be a sandie ? .

Thanks of the help .

[TheKido[501st]]

Hi!

 

There are quite a few who repaint their whole armor, I haven't done it yet but I'm planning on doing it. I started a post on paining a few months ago and got a great answer which I could post here if I find it.

Good luck

[TheKido[501st]]

Here you go. All cred to Steve.

 

There is no problem with painting other than the process is long, tedious and takes a lot of patience!!!!  This process CANNOT be rushed in ANY way.  The main paint that is most commonly used is Rustolium Professional Gloss White. It is in a tall, silver can available at any home center. The primer most commonly used is anything designed for plastic in white. The material are only half the concern. IT'S THE PREP AND THE PATIENCE!!! Many guys who have painted their armor, have washed and scrubbed each piece with a green, kitchen scrubby pad and a mild detergent or with a non greasy degreaser like goof off. This will both knock the gloss off the ABS and de-grease the surface to ensure adhesion. Then comes the primer. One or two coats is fine. NO DRIPS!!!!! If you use two coats, APPLY IT RIGHT AWAY!!!!!! DO NOT WAIT! Then comes the wait. This is critical!!!! Paint dries from the outside in. You NEED TO ALLOW IT TO CURE FULLY AND ADHERE TO THE PARTS. If you rush it or, God forbid, follow the can directions and coat in 24 hours, you will have disastrous results. The paint will lift and crinkle forcing you to strip all parts and start over. I have always allowed AT LEAST 7-10 days before top coating with the gloss white. When this day comes, make sure you have enough paint. Depending on how many coats you apply, 3 cans will safely get you two coats. Painting the top coats needs to be done all at once. Make sure you are prepared with all your parts spread out and supported where they can dry without being touched or touching any surface. DO NOT PAINT ON A WINDY DAY!!!! DO NOT PAINT AT NIGHT WITH A LIGHT. your white armor becomes an attractant for EVERY bug in your area to land on. Ideally, you should paint in temps of about 65-80. If you are painting your armor prior to assembly, You will have in the neighborhood of 30 parts to paint. In higher temps, the paint will dry quickly so you want to break up your parts into three separate groups so you can get all coats applied before the starting coats dry too much. Two to three coats minimum on all parts. I hate to sound "Debbie Downer" repetitive, but I have made these mistakes already!!! ALL COATS MUST BE APPLIED AT ONE TIME. Don't even think that you can come back and re-coat it "later" or after 48 hours. It will lift and crinkle!!!!

After your paint is applied, now you wait. at least another 7 days for proper curing. Don't worry if you don't have a mirror gloss on all your parts. If your armor is destined to be a sandy....you're already golden. If you want "Death Star" ready, you can polish out the dull spots with an automotive compound and a damp cloth. Auto paint compounds are like sandpaper for paint just at a microscopic level.  You WILL remove some paint in doing this ergo your need for several coats and the proper drying time. Don't rub too hard especially on the high spots and edges!! A mirror finish can be achieved here!!! Finish with an auto polish for protection.

 

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

try novus 3 and then 2 before painting... you might be able to skip paint.

[Tolo[TK]]

try novus 3 and then 2 before painting... you might be able to skip paint.

+1

That method worked for me.

 

 

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[evoxpilot]

After it's white it needs uv protection like your car. Any polymer like abs will eventually yellow unless its protected. Most modern car detailing will do that. If you are outside with you suit on definitely.

 

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[Tkste]

Thanks guys , I will try re spraying it all .I did try the novus stuff and it was beyond that .

Edited November 1, 2013 by Tkste

[TK_SF7658]

Ok, just took my FX armor out of storage, it has always been kept in a Rubbermaid tote with a lid, it yellowed! Helmet sits on my dresser, has never yellowed. Anyway, I started with novus,  and it worked ok, switched to Meguiar's and wow, back to white! 

[SuperTrooper]

Yep, I switched to Meguiar's mirror glaze years ago.  I heard about it from the Vaders and got some for my Vader dome and went from there.

[RampantLion[TK]]

Yep, I switched to Meguiar's mirror glaze years ago. I heard about it from the Vaders and got some for my Vader dome and went from there.

Which version of the wax? They have a lit of different products?

[SuperTrooper]

Mirror glaze #2, I think it's called a medium cutter if I remember right.  I've also tried #10 at a friends and it was nice, but didn't remove scratches.