WideAMG's RS Props PVC ANH stunt build

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Isn't the thigh ammo armor supposed to be attached with a cap rivet, not a split rivet?

[Tolo[TK]]

Isn't the thigh ammo armor supposed to be attached with a cap rivet, not a split rivet?

Yep!

 

 

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[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Yes, but solid domed rivets are allowed for Centurion. So split rivets won't prevent you from getting the CENT approval .

 

Have you set the inner rivet in the thigh ridge too?

 

 

However, i won't rely too much on the main belt template from Billhag. The side caps placement is wrong. They should be almost edge to edge with the belt ends and not centered. This would be more accurate but also allow the drop boxes to rigthly line up with the belt ends.

[Squeaky[TK]]

3 factors influenced my decision to use a solid head split rivet to attach the ammo pack to the thigh:

 

1. there are no references in the FISD references that show the inside profile of the rivet

 

2. current CRL for ANH stunt states:

For level three certification (if applicable):

Thigh ammo belt must be attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Standard pop rivets are not allowed

 

3. I did (incorrectly) follow another centurion build who used split rivets for his approved build.

 

Germain,

Thanks for clarifying that this wont affect Centurion approval. I may change this but the hole for the split rivets are too big for the solid domed/cap rivets.

Not sure which inner rivet you are referring to.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Not sure which inner rivet you are referring to.

Just the second rivet that goes through the thigh but on the inner half

It's important to have this one located on the bottom ridge of the thigh too.

[Locitus[Admin]]

3 factors influenced my decision to use a solid head split rivet to attach the ammo pack to the thigh:

 

1. there are no references in the FISD references that show the inside profile of the rivet

3. I did (incorrectly) follow another centurion build who used split rivets for his approved build.

 

You're right. I haven't asked RS if I can add their pictures to our galleries. But they have a picture on their facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150515780229333.386994.265114729332&type=3

 

As for following other centurion threads, I generally don't recommend that for the very reason you have mentioned. You risk repeating other peoples mistakes.

[Cantina Security[501st]]

Looking good sir...

[Squeaky[TK]]

the canvas belt from RS comes with the snaps to the ab plate already installed and the locations for the other rivets marked out.

 

the location for the holster screws are also marked.

 

front side of the canvas belt and where the snap heads line up/and hidden with the ammo blocks.

 

indentation @ location for center rivet on ammo belt

 

drilled hole for rivet and pierced canvas belt.

 

set the rivets for all locations before attaching.

 

would be interesting in hearing from others on the best way to pierce/drill a hole through the canvas for the rivets. I used a small drill but it didn't give great results.

 

ammo to canvas belt riveted on.

 

buttons glued on the hide the rivets. as shown on my page 1 a gap to the edge is set as per Han's suit.

[Squeaky[TK]]

elastic straps glued to shoulder bells.

nothing fancy just sanded the contact surface, cleaned, glued and clamped.

 

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Your build is looking sharp, very detailed! A leather hole punch is an invaluable tool for punching holes in most soft materials.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Good thing to see a RS belt with the end caps at the right place 

 

Just watch out, the rivets location for the holster provided by RS is wrong. They should be place on the 1/3 inferior of the belt not in the middle like they indicate.

[Squeaky[TK]]

good advice guys.

 

back to the bucket. flashing on the rear half to trim.

 

brow trimmed to length and installed to provide the offset from front face.

some of the original brows did not extend to the back of the traps but I like it all the way back.

 

forehead trimmed

 

test fitted with magnets.

gap between eyes and brow vary between "surprised" and "mean", I balanced it so I can lower it later if I want.

lots of gaps on the lower tubes but to maintain symmetry this is how it is.

 

one rivet for ears on each side

 

rivet on bottom of ear. making sure its positioned where it will be hidden by the ear pieces.

 

there is an indentation for the rivet on the front face provided by RS. I found this is too close to the tear and didn't use it. made sure that the ear piece will hide it.

 

the gap on the right side tubes look way too big but the ear pieces will hide it.

[Squeaky[TK]]

untrimmed ears.


RS provided hand drawn cut marks. not sure if they are good for my assembly so I ignored them.




no real way to explain this but just kept trimming a little at a time until the contour and thickness was correct.

kept referencing pics of the originals.

the ears have indentations for the rivets. they look a little off from my reference pics but I used them because I needed the countersink for the screws.



installed the 'S' seal to determine the bottom trimming of the ears.




screwed



assembled.




my eerie 'ghost trooper' test fit

[gazmosis[501st]]

We need more builds like this. This is so cool!

[Squeaky[TK]]

had to move the build upstairs during the holidays to re-introduce myself to my wife and kids.

onto painting...

automotive pinstriping 1/8" for the border.


applied after first coat of humbrol grey #5. corners are too tight to bend so the pinstripe needs to be cut.




1/8" is too thick so during the second coat I painted over the pinstripe to reduce the thickness and give the hand painted look.



traps and tears.



ears were harder to do but with a little trimming it will look better than this.


Trooperbay templates for tube stripes and some extra masking.




now this step is important. even if you think that the template has complete contact and no edges are lifted it is a good precaution to first apply a thin coat of white to seal the edges. let it dry.


then apply humbrol Mediterranean Blue #48



Trooperbay templates for the traps and tears.



used humbrol #85 Coal Black




this is what happens when I don't do as I say and forget a base coat first.

salvageable with more grey paint and a thin brush.

not sure about the pinstriping idea because of the visible painted edge. I may remove it and hand paint it

you need a round brush to properly paint the vocoder. #8 or #10 brush??? I had neither and all kits are a little different so I just took a close sized brush and cut a round shape with scissors to match the thickness of my particular vocoder stripes.


finished painting... but may tweak more.

Edited January 9, 2014 by WideAMG

[Locitus[Admin]]

Add more pointyness to the frown. Yours is kind of cut off. You would also benefit from slimming down the ears a bit. But overall, a very nice job on the helmet.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/36-helmet-frown-a-new-hope-stunt/

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Nice job!

As Mathias said, the frown ends need to be more pointy. Also i'm not sure about the pinstraps as it is right now, maybe if you cut it in half to avoid having to paint over it, or just go handpainting the whole way.

 

And i have to say that i always though the "French Blue" wasn't the proper blue and looking at your "Mediterranean Blue" it looks pretty obvious to me that this one is clearly better! If someone knows: is the "French Blue" from a specific reference of an original helmet?

 

PS: Your mic tips are funny, they look... erected  !

[Locitus[Admin]]

And i have to say that i always though the "French Blue" wasn't the proper blue and looking at your "Mediterranean Blue" it looks pretty obvious to me that this one is clearly better! If someone knows: is the "French Blue" from a specific reference of an original helmet?

French blue is the most commonly used paint, but others have been used successfully. TM has used Mediterranean blue before, but I think switched to flat blue later. There is no "proof" that French blue is the correct paint, just that it is a good match, compared to other paints, most of which are too dark.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

French blue is the most commonly used paint, but others have been used successfully. TM has used Mediterranean blue before, but I think switched to flat blue later. There is no "proof" that French blue is the correct paint, just that it is a good match, compared to other paints, most of which are too dark.

Thanks for the input Mathias. I think i will change for an other blue in this case.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Thanks for the input Mathias. I think i will change for an other blue in this case.

I think I would go for #25 Matt blue if I would paint a new helmet or redo my stripes.

[Squeaky[TK]]

I will extend the frown and make it pointed. although I will not do the 'joker' smirk as seen on one of the originals

 

agreed that the pinstripe is not a good idea unless you use the proper thickness. I will trim or hand paint.

ears can be brought down a little more.

 

I used the holes casted in by RS for the mics. although the hole location appears correct I need something to adjust the direction of the mics, I assume some bevelled washers can be used.

 

I used TK-1650's reference diagram for the color selection.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

I will extend the frown and make it pointed. although I will not do the 'joker' smirk as seen on one of the originals

Indeed, funny one ! 

Even though i think it might be a sandtrooper regarding the tear painting.

 

 

I used TK-1650's reference diagram for the color selection.

 

Ooh, it's has been updated since the last time i saw it!! That's cool 

[Squeaky[TK]]

here is the RS helmet in CLEAR showing the fastener locations. this should be helpful for first-timers.

 

 

[Clamps[TK]]

Ok so that is pretty cool!

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Nice!!

Is it 1:1 scaled?