STR WRS ATA ANH Build

[STRWRS]

Hello, everyone.  I have recently started the build of my ATA armor kit.  I am doing a ANH build.  Let me bring you up to speed on where I am at.  I have been doing a lot of reading and a lot of trimming on all of the arm and leg pieces but I have not glued any pieces together yet.  Thankfully another TK in my area took the time to show me his armor which helped a lot.  I realized I hadn’t quite trimmed enough off most of the arm and leg pieces so I am doing a little more trimming to get those pieces ready for assembly. I hope to start some gluing (E6000) this weekend.

 

In terms of acquiring soft pieces and accessories I have…

 

…ordered a ANH HyperFirm from sci-fire.com

…ordered thermal detonator clips from TK4702

…ordered a neck seal from TK409 (I see some lukewarm reviews of this after I ordered so if there is a better source for a neck seal please let me know in case I want to upgrade later)

…ordered black Nomex flight gloves from Amazon

…ordered a white canvas belt from Tkittell

 

I still need to order and would appreciate some guidance and suggestions on the following:

 

1) Holster for ANH HyperFirm (I sent a message to TK Bondservnt to see what he recommends as a holster)

 

2)  Boots (I am on a wait list with TK Boots who said they hope to have new product available around mid-Sept; I guess Caboots can be my backup unless someone has another suggestion)

 

3) Helmet Decals (I sent a message to TrooperBay.com to see if they offer ATA decals for a ANH build)

 

4) Helmet Fan (I have sent a message to TK4261 to see if he is still making and selling these)

 

5) I will probably get Under Armour for my inner suit; I hear that Heat Gear is recommended over Cold Gear since most trooping is indoors; does everyone use a black Sharpie marker to black out the white Under Armour logo?

 

6) I am considering using an Uncle Mikes Ultra Inner Duty Belt (full Velcro all the way around) to support the leg pieces; has this worked for anyone else?

 

7) For voice electronics I am going to look into the Aker voice amp at www.tkproductsllc.net (does anyone have any other suggestions for voice electronics that they highly recommend?)

 

 

Now some questions…

 

I would like to confirm that there is not supposed to be any return edge on the bottom of the shin pieces (near the ankle) and the bottom of the forearm pieces (near the wrist).  The mold marks seem to indicate this as well.  Is this correct?  It seems like all other pieces have a bit of a return edge to give the armor the illusion of thickness.

 

Is it easier to 1) glue the two inner shims at the same time and then glue the two outer cover strips at the same or 2) glue the inner shim and outer cover strip on the front at the same time and then do both strips on the back at the same time?

 

I think rivets are only used in a few places – 1) to attach the ammo belt to the canvas belt, 2) to attach the leg ammo belt to the right shin, and 3) in one place on the helmet under each ear piece; are rivet washers used on the inside to keep the rivet from pulling out? I assume aluminum rivets are used instead of steel, right?

 

Can any shade of gray paint be used to paint the section of PVC pipe for the thermal detonator? I assume glossy instead of flat paint is used, right?

 

When working on the snap system does it matter what type of elastic is used?  Our local Joann’s has 2†knit elastic in both white and black and they have 3/4†braided elastic.  I’m not an expert on knit vs. braided elastic so I’m wondering if this is what everyone else uses.  They are Dritz 9583W, 9583B, and 9534B if that helps.

 

I will try to post a picture of each piece before I glue anything to hopefully get a consensus that I’m doing things correctly.  Thanks to anyone who provides feedback to help me through this build.

[SorenM[TK]]

Do not buy CA boots, see my thread for alternatives......

If you want to go for EIB then Nomex flight gloves are a nogo...

Good luck on you build!...:-)

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Hi, and first of all good luck for your upcoming journey 

 

Is it easier to 1) glue the two inner shims at the same time and then glue the two outer cover strips at the same or 2) glue the inner shim and outer cover strip on the front at the same time and then do both strips on the back at the same time?

I'd recommand you to work side by side. Do the front first, as i found gluing the cover strips on the first side easier & then close the piece by gluing the back. What i did during my build was to prepare both cover strips of one side, then i glued the inner first, waited for 12hours, quickly withdrew the magnets/clamps added the front cover strip, set the magnets/clamps back in place and let it dry for 24h.

 

I think rivets are only used in a few places – 1) to attach the ammo belt to the canvas belt, 2) to attach the leg ammo belt to the right shin, and 3) in one place on the helmet under each ear piece; are rivet washers used on the inside to keep the rivet from pulling out?

1) You aren't force to use rivets here. You can use poppers if you want to be able to detach the ABS belt from the canvas belt.

2) the Ammo knee belt is attached to the bottom of the right thigh, but indeed you need rivets here. In this location you'll need 2 CAP rivets with a 7mm head.

3) In fact there's usually 2 rivets by side, hence that's make 4 for the helmet. 

4) You may also want rivets to fasten the holster to the canvas belt, & the inner drop boxes to their respective elastic. You'll also need 7 split rivets with 8mm head for the kidney & ab left side and the crotch.

And I'd strongly recommand backing every rivets with a washer.

 

Can any shade of gray paint be used to paint the section of PVC pipe for the thermal detonator? I assume glossy instead of flat paint is used, right?

I personnaly used the grey you use for the helmet: Humbrol n°5 Admiral Grey Gloss

 

When working on the snap system does it matter what type of elastic is used?  Our local Joann’s has 2†knit elastic in both white and black and they have 3/4†braided elastic.  I’m not an expert on knit vs. braided elastic so I’m wondering if this is what everyone else uses.  They are Dritz 9583W, 9583B, and 9534B if that help

I don't know for the knit vs braided however

 

 

I hope i've helped you.

[Nagedzi[TK]]

If you want to go for EIB then Nomex flight gloves are a nogo...

As far as I can tell from the CRL, Nomex flight gloves are fine for EIB. It is only when applying for Centurion that they become an issue.

[captsafe66[Admin]]

As far as I can tell from the CRL, Nomex flight gloves are fine for EIB. It is only when applying for Centurion that they become an issue.

This is correct, nomex/leather gloves are good for EIB and are great for trooping.  Trooperbay has some great rubber ones when you are ready for Centurion.

 

Welcome to the FISD!!

[SorenM[TK]]

This is correct, nomex/leather gloves are good for EIB and are great for trooping.  Trooperbay has some great rubber ones when you are ready for Centurion.

 

Welcome to the FISD!!

Sorry my mistake.....should have, would have written CEN.....

[STRWRS]

Thanks, everybody, for the feedback. I have been busy trimming and I actually glued the forearm pieces together with no problem this weekend.

 

I was wondering if anyone could tell me how wide the thermal detonator end caps are supposed to be and how wide the overall thermal detonator is supposed to be. I did a search but I didn't see an answer right away. Thanks for any clarification you can provide.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

From the CRL:

 

Thermal Detonator
For 501st approval:

• (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. This is an all gray cylinder without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2†(50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length should be approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).
• The thermal detonator shall be attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips approximately 1" (25mm) wide. 

[STRWRS]

Thanks for letting me know the 7.5" total length.  Is there a guideline for how wide the end caps should be?  I've seen some that are very skinning (maybe 1/2" or less") and some that are wider (maybe 1" or more).  I can't find an official guideline on this.  Is there a thread that I am missing that addresses this? Thanks again.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

It might help you: 

 

With that pic and the CRL infos, you should have all the mesurements needed

Edited September 9, 2013 by The5thHorseman

[STRWRS]

On a slightly different subject, what type of paint is best to paint the thermal detonator, the ab buttons, and the frown, etc. on the helmet.  I am guessing a glossy enamel would be best but I thought I would see what others have done.  Thanks.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Have a look at this thread:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8117-helmet-ab-paint-detail-reference-guide/

 

I used the Grey humbrol for my TD.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Use the guide above, I painted my TD with primer then gave it a coat of gloss clear, reason is I had the paint here from blaster builds and I prefer to use spray paint so there is no brush marks

[Raintrooper]

 

 

Haha!  Sorry, but I've always wanted to use this emoticon. Couldn't resist.