E11 Power Cylinder & wires

[Locitus[Admin]]

Accurate would be to just glue it on. There is no "accurate" bracket. However using a bracket would hold your counter much more securely, and not risk having it fall off during trooping (or shooting a low budget sci-fi film called star wars).

[captsafe66[Admin]]

Thanks a lot. You live in the land of my ancestors, my Great-Grandmother was born in Sweden. Congrats on being the first ANH Centurion too. I am about to buy a set of ATA to go for EIB and Centurion ANH as well.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Thanks a lot. You live in the land of my ancestors, my Great-Grandmother was born in Sweden. Congrats on being the first ANH Centurion too. I am about to buy a set of ATA to go for EIB and Centurion ANH as well.

Thanks, and good luck!

[TK Keith[TK]]

On 2/11/2009 at 11:59 PM, synaptyx said:

I've been looking for the 'right' wires too. These fit the bill for me.

 

I found one of these shaver leads (you can get 'em on the bay of fleas for a $/� or two):

 

One cable should be enough to do four blasters.

 

Took six loops and tore the double cable apart; voil�br /> 

 

Great way to get the wires- thanks for sharing!

 

I dont think the wires are required for EIB, put I am probably going to try to add them anyways.

[xorex[501st]]

Just cropped Leia out of the next 2. The top one has the best wire reference in the whole movie:

 

Another blaster with no wires:

 

Same blaster, different shots:

 

Blaster with power rods, but no counter, but different than above:

 

Lots of blasters, the pic is 3 feet wide at full resolution: Darn photobucket shrank it down :

 

Hi all,

 

I have a quick question, as I can see on those pics, the wire and counter box are not always present, if I build a rifle without these would they be approved or not?

 

I read through these forums and couldn't find a definitive answer

 

thanks

JS

[PlayfulWolfCub]

In the thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24735-anh-hero-e-11-requirements-for-centurion/page-2 Matthias (who does approvals) said:

 

Well, to give a more definitive answer to the OP; You won't need much of what you have listed in your post. The requirements include all external components, so things like a charging handle needs to exist. Power cylinders and Hengstler would be assumed for an ANH variation, but I wouldn't argue with you if you replicated a specific model in ANH that was missing those.

 

Basically, if it looks good and has the things you would expect of it, you should be fine. Having all the other parts come from found real parts is overkill, but appreciated.

 

PM him if you need personal verification.  Cheers, Andy

[87ninefiveone]

I'm not sure if I should be replying to a pinned post like this or not, but what's the verdict on the wires being included from FISD staff? The CRL doesn't cover it and it appears as though movie blasters may or may not have had them included. So, would including them which seems unpopular based on EIB and Centurion applications be okay or not? Is it just left up to individual GMLs?

 

I like the look and frankly I've already installed them on my build, but I'd rather make changes before applying for basic rather than get turned down and have to fix it before reapplying.

[Theskully]

Ok

Edited January 7, 2016 by Theskully

[greyfox]

Are power cells actually necessary to be screen accurate? Or were there also blasters with hengstler counter but without power cells?

 

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[jkno]

Since we know that the Hengstlers were simply glued on the body of the E-11 and on the scope I think the cylinders were glued too. And many Hengstler counters fell off during filming, and you can still see the glue residue as in the pic below. The CRL asks for both cylinders and counters to be up on the blaster to make it more sci-fi and "starwarsy" as the ILM artists wanted in the first place. The Master Replicas Stormtrooper blaster is beautiful but it is really bare bones, by lacking these two cool greeblies.

 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Are power cells actually necessary to be screen accurate? Or were there also blasters with hengstler counter but without power cells?

 

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^^ What jkno said. It was decided that these items just fell off, as evidenced by those pics of the glue still there, so all blasters must have them.

 

Just as there are slight errors with armour (no stripes, etc) the CRL doesn't allow for those 'mistakes' or 'accidents'.

[greyfox]

Thank you!

 

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[fieldmarshall]

Anyone know where to buy the power cells? i have 20 old sterling smg and need to locate a worthy source. ill fabricate them if i can find plans......

[PlayfulWolfCub]

Anyone know where to buy the power cells? i have 20 old sterling smg and need to locate a worthy source. ill fabricate them if i can find plans......

 

It's impossible to buy original power cells but I make extremely accurate replicas.  I believe most FISD members would say they're "worthy"  

 

I haven't made many since last Summer but I'm starting up again now.  There are lots of photos of finished replicas & links to my research project in this thread

 

Cheers, Andy

[I'm Batman[501st]]

It's impossible to buy original power cells but I make extremely accurate replicas.  I believe most FISD members would say they're "worthy"  

 

 

They are worthy. We are NOT worthy...

 

Any chance of the resin ones making a comeback Andy, for us less cashed up folk?

[PlayfulWolfCub]

They are worthy. We are NOT worthy...

 

Any chance of the resin ones making a comeback Andy, for us less cashed up folk?

 

lol       

 

I just posted this update in the resin sales thread:

 

I'm actually not sure I'll offer fully resin Power Cylinders again - I found it very hard to keep the quality of detail as high as I want & they were very fragile.

However, I'm now considering a hybrid kit: using a metal base-plate (like I use for my full metal Cylinders) with resin/plastic/metal add-ons

 

The advantages of a hybrid would be that it'd be:

 

  1) Stronger

  2) More authentic

  3) The quality would be more reliable

  4) I'd be able able to offer all 5 shapes

 

I'm quite excited about the idea! 

 

Cheers, Andy

Edited February 12, 2016 by PlayfulWolfCub

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Spose I should have checked that thread first

 

I was super happy with my resin set from you. Will be keen to see the hybrid versions when they become available.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

The hybrid idea sounds great. I use magnets to secure my power cylinders but had to add a thin metal sheet underneath the resin. Having the base already metal would be super! Hope to see these soon!

[PlayfulWolfCub]

I was super happy with my resin set from you.

 

I think everyone loved the resin Power Cylinders I actually sent out.  The problem was that I throw lots away because they weren't good enough.

Plus I had to do more work on the ones I assembled for people than the price justified. 

I need the "budget kit" to be consistent quality and not require me to do much work on it - otherwise it stops being "budget".  

 

I use magnets to secure my power cylinders but had to add a thin metal sheet underneath the resin. Having the base already metal would be super!

 

I hadn't thought of people using resin Cylinders on metal builds but that would be a cool benefit 

Edited February 12, 2016 by PlayfulWolfCub

[Mad Dog 20/20]

On 4/30/2015 at 12:40 PM, 87ninefiveone said:

I'm not sure if I should be replying to a pinned post like this or not, but what's the verdict on the wires being included from FISD staff? The CRL doesn't cover it and it appears as though movie blasters may or may not have had them included. So, would including them which seems unpopular based on EIB and Centurion applications be okay or not? Is it just left up to individual GMLs?

 

I like the look and frankly I've already installed them on my build, but I'd rather make changes before applying for basic rather than get turned down and have to fix it before reapplying.

New recruit here. Just now seen this thread. I'm in the process of moding a rubies E11 blaster. I'm just going to make my own power cylinders and and add some curly wires to them and I think they will look kick @*$. Since not all E-11s from ANH had them

[Mad Dog 20/20]

On 2/12/2016 at 2:57 AM, PlayfulWolfCub said:

 

I think everyone loved the resin Power Cylinders I actually sent out.  The problem was that I throw lots away because they weren't good enough.

Plus I had to do more work on the ones I assembled for people than the price justified. 

I need the "budget kit" to be consistent quality and not require me to do much work on it - otherwise it stops being "budget".  

 

 

I hadn't thought of people using resin Cylinders on metal builds but that would be a cool benefit 

Don't throw them away. Send me some. I'll gladly pay you for shipping if you are in the States.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

 

5 hours ago, Von Goodleef said:

Don't throw them away. Send me some. I'll gladly pay you for shipping if you are in the States.

You may be out of luck there, Alan.  That post is from Feb. of 2016.  I know you are aiming for Centurion, but the Hasbro blasters are not permitted at Level 3, not even conversions.  Unfortunately this is not an inexpensive hobby, but there are alternatives!

The Hasbro will get you to Level 2 with modifications (see below from the CRL) but what I would do is this:

 

1.  Find files for a 3D printed one, but know that the print lines must be sanded down/filled.

 

2.  Doopydoos makes an outstanding resin E-11 kit that if built correctly will get you to Level 3.  (It's actually a fun build but takes time).  Sadly, they are often out of stock.  What you can do on their site is sign up for notification when they are available.  When you receive that email from them, order immediately, as they sell out quick!  https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp

 

If you want to take it to the next level of accuracy, you can get one of Tino's @T-Jay E-11 finishing kits.  These are the BOMB, and he is a great seller!  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/

 

[Mad Dog 20/20]

11 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:

 

You may be out of luck there, Alan.  That post is from Feb. of 2016.  I know you are aiming for Centurion, but the Hasbro blasters are not permitted at Level 3, not even conversions.  Unfortunately this is not an inexpensive hobby, but there are alternatives!

The Hasbro will get you to Level 2 with modifications (see below from the CRL) but what I would do is this:

 

1.  Find files for a 3D printed one, but know that the print lines must be sanded down/filled.

 

2.  Doopydoos makes an outstanding resin E-11 kit that if built correctly will get you to Level 3.  (It's actually a fun build but takes time).  Sadly, they are often out of stock.  What you can do on their site is sign up for notification when they are available.  When you receive that email from them, order immediately, as they sell out quick!  https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp

 

If you want to take it to the next level of accuracy, you can get one of Tino's @T-Jay E-11 finishing kits.  These are the BOMB, and he is a great seller!  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/

 

Will a Rubies one work for level one? I'm moding it to look realistic.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Since many TKs are located in countries that do not permit weapons (even replicas) there is no requirement to even have one for Basic approval so you are good there.  However, since Levels 2 and 3 are optional a weapon is required for those. Sorry, forgot to add those CRL requirements:

 

• Folding stock (does not need to function).
• A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope.
• Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
• Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
• If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.
  • This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.