ANH Hero E-11 Requirements For Centurion.

[PlayfulWolfCub]

If you're buying my Cylinders and Gino's track I'd strongly advise against an M38A2 (or any A2 version) - they have a section "cut out" for a lighting bracket.  Here's a comparison photo (It's not my photo but I don't know whose it is so can't credit them). 

 

 

 

For screen accurate shapes you can use an M38, M40, M47, M77, M19 or M32.  (Note that the 1942 versions are different shapes to the 1943s) 

 

The Tunisian Hero blaster that Han is holding in the publicity photos is a cast resin 1942 M38.  In fact, lots of the scopes in the film were resin casts so you don't even have to shell out for a real one to be screen accurate!    Any scope you see in a screenshot that has the little black cuboid on top is cast resin. It's where they poured the resin in - if you look at close-ups of the Tunisian Hero you can see little round holes in the top of the cuboid from the air bubbles rising.

 

Cheers, Andy

 

PS - Although resin is screen accurate, real scopes are lovely objects and well worth the money for a good one with the reticle intact!  Make sure the lenses are present & clear too (along with the original bezels that held the lenses in) and see if you can find one with original bolts too.  To buy with confidence send Marv a PM - he'd be my first call if I was looking for a good scope.

Edited October 1, 2021 by Sly11
Edited to restore images Sly11 2021

[jkno]

On 8/12/2013 at 1:53 PM, TK Bondservnt 2392 said:

This is a photo that GINO uses to show his T Track.

 

-----------

 

And unfortunately for us, that is all what he shows... No offense to anyone but I know I need more than just words.

 

Edited August 15, 2022 by gmrhodes13
link removed no longer working

[jkno]

Sorry forgot to ask, what are the differences between the M38 & M38A2?

 

The M38A2 has that extra part ring on it, which when removed lets a groove there, which is not accurate. You can fill that though and make it look like a regular M38

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

On 8/12/2013 at 5:44 PM, jkno said:

And unfortunately for us, that is all what he shows... No offense to anyone but I know I need more than just words.

 

 

The photo is much more than words.  it sounds like you don't like GINO?

I'm,sorry sir this is a photo,, not words.

 

photo

--------------

 

the width on T Track is VERY important.

and that is not words... it's a fact.

 

there are no more accurate T Track than GINO track...

and marv knows how much I respect him, and everyone who knows the accuracy this forum represents.

 

i own GINO track, MARV track and even SABREFREAK track... so I've done a lot of research by purchasing all the known track

 

the blastech track is rubber so I don't even compare that. 

Edited August 15, 2022 by gmrhodes13
link removed no longer working

[jkno]

That is your opinion, and you are entitled to it. Doesn't mean we should buy that because you or others think they are the best. We need proof. As Locitus said: "conclusive proof his track are the closest to the EE-3 and that the track on it is identical to the tracks on other props". I own both Gino and Marv t-tracks as well. And Gino only showed us this photo. I'm glad you like Gino, but this is not about liking him, but about how really accurate are his t-tracks and where is the proof.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

when I put marv track compared to gino track on my e-11 I can clearly see proof by then comparing to

photos of an original e-11  that is the proof we all can see.

 

when marv's track was used on a wiselite sterling semi auto, the track was too small and the holes had to be filled in.

when rogue studio put gino track on a sterling used in the film it fits perfectly.

that is again more proof.

[jkno]

It is not Marv agaist Gino here. It is Gino and his proof alone. Nothing else.

Edited August 13, 2013 by jkno

[PlayfulWolfCub]

Perhaps this will help a bit in terms of "proof".  This is one of the comparison photos I took of my "Tunisian Variant" blaster. 

It shows Gino's track on my blaster compared to a publicity shot of the Tunisian blaster Han holds in the promo photos.

Whilst not 100% the same (even allowing for the slightly different camera angle) I'm happy that Gino's track is very close to screen-accurate

 

Cheers, Andy

 

Edited October 1, 2021 by Sly11
Edited to restore images Sly11 2021

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looks like there is an OFF missing and an arrow, oh oh another can of worms  

 

But seriously guys this was a thread asking what was needed for a hero E-11 blaster for Centurion, not a debate on what T track is best

Edited August 13, 2013 by gmrhodes13

[PlayfulWolfCub]

lol...  I know you're just joking but to avoid confusing people who aren't familiar with the different E11 variations I better add that this is the Tunisian "dummy" version that just had a wooden block pushed in the mag well.  This is the only E11 variation that was used by Sandtroopers but Stormtroopers have them on the Death Star too.

 

Cheers, Andy

[Locitus[Admin]]

Well, to give a more definitive answer to the OP; You won't need much of what you have listed in your post. The requirements include all external components, so things like a charging handle needs to exist. Power cylinders and Hengstler would be assumed for an ANH variation, but I wouldn't argue with you if you replicated a specific model in ANH that was missing those.

 

Basically, if it looks good and has the things you would expect of it, you should be fine. Having all the other parts come from found real parts is overkill, but appreciated.

[Jaggered]

Thanks guys although the subject may have side tracked a little, good points & it's a education so still do appreciate the comments.

 

Just one more question I'm unsure about to do with the muzzle end.

Is there a requirement for the muzzle end to be modded different from the stick standard look?

 

Having come across the post with the wooden dowel within the barrel casing that blocks the last air vent prior to the bolt/ ejection port so that the t-track cant fit into it.

Would it be safe to assume that you could look at this as the internal barrel?

I don't plan on using a wooden dowel painted black I will instead use a pipe but as above, does the muzzle end need adjusting if so anyone have a few pictures?

 

Thank you.

 

jAG

[PlayfulWolfCub]

Hi Jace,

 

I don't quite understand what you're asking regarding "stick standard look"  or the "wooden dowel within the barrel casing that blocks the last air vent prior to the bolt/ ejection port".  Can you post photos of what you mean?

 

Regarding modding the Doopy's muzzle, here is a genuine Sterling muzzle.  You'll see the small disk on the end (which is for positioning the bayonet) is down & to the right:

 

 

 

 

...and here's a Doopy's muzzle with the disk centralised.  (they may have changed the design since this photo, which is of a 501st build):

 

It sounds like either is fine for Centurion but for screen accurate you can either cut the end disk off & glue a new one on in the right place or buy a resin cast of an original muzzle from someone.

 

Cheers, Andy

Edited October 1, 2021 by Sly11
Edited to restore images Sly11 2021

[Jaggered]

"Stick standard" should have been "stock standard" look

No edit button :/

 

Ref the wooden dowel I came across this thread, note page 2 as well.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21279-anh-sterling-prop/

[Jaggered]

Ref the close up of the muzzle I notice the hex nuts have some sort of pattern along the edge.

I need what's been termed "cheesehead" nuts to secure the scope to the rail.

This a term used for hex nut?

 

Heads up, full doopy kit came with the muzzle disk to the right, a friend brought the pipe kit & the disk is central.

Might be lucky dip or he got the last of the old stock.

[PlayfulWolfCub]

That's cool about the new Doopys muzzle being more accurate. 

 

I'm not sure what question you're asking about the barrel, Jace, but the photos you've linked to are a Tunisan blaster - don't copy it if you're making a standard "firable" E11.

 

There were 2 textures of muzzle bolts: either ribbed or crosshatched.  I don't know which of the 2 patterns the Star Wars ones had.  The easiest way to match them exactly is to buy them from a Sterling specialist, like this one:  http://www.project-x.org.uk/sterling.html

 

The original "cheesehead" scope-mounting screws for the M38 were slotted.  Here's a photo of some originals.  It was very kindly sent to me by Marv when I started my build.  Thanks Marv    (NB - the M19 scope was mounted with different bolts)

 

 

 

Cheers, Andy

Edited October 1, 2021 by Sly11
Edited to restore images Sly11 2021