ANH Hero E-11 Requirements For Centurion.

[Jaggered]

Hello all.

 

Okay after looking around the boards I'm unable to find where it states what the requirements are for a ANH E-11 Hero Centurion.

Photos don't help as you could easily miss something so reading would be much more appreciated.

I'm not upgrading my armour just yet but thought I'd start with the E-11

 

From what I've read & seen in other posts a Doopy's is acceptable, I've ordered the complete kit but from bits & pieces I've picked up from reading I'll need the following???

 

Real M38?

Real Hengstler counter?

Internal barrel?

Extended bolt/ past cocking lever with groove & forward small recess towards the face of the bolt along the side, forward of the groove?

Magazine end with clip remover & imprinted with the word (OFF & direction arrow)?

Must the D ring for the sling on the body be metal???

Metal power cylinder bracket?

3 fuse's between the power cylinders?

Coiled wire not required or if they are fitted to be looped four times in series?

Specific T-tracks that someone makes??? Who can a PM ref purchase?

 

Change the end of the barrel... May have invented this one myself, losing track of things, lol

 

A dowel or something forward of the bolt along the body?

I'm not sure about this as the thread I found that on didn't show a clear picture.

Did have a red ringed circle seemingly indicating something but appeared to be around the forward part of the trigger guard so I'm completely confused about that.

 

I'd like to be as screen accurate as possible hence why I may have listed something's that aren't required but if anyone could confirm what's required & anything I may have missed.

 

I will admit now that there is one area I will fail in, weathering.

I'm planning to have this E-11 weathered very heavily, why?

I want this E-11 to have the, "been there done that look".

Ex service ppl should know what I'm talking about, lol

 

Appreciate any help members can give, thank you.

 

jAG

[seantrooper[TK]]

you won't need the real scope or hengstler, those are just for people that have gone above and beyond. Resin copies are just fine.

 

Not sure on the other areas as far an impolite person requirements go, but for t-tracks look up marv in the for sale section. I have his tracks and they are awesome.

[Dday[501st]]

the only real requirement from Normal E11 to centurion E11 is that is it not a Hasbro conversion.

 

You can get a DVH pipe build or a doopy resin and both will work for centurion.

[gazmosis[501st]]

 

Wow. Your attention to detail is admired. But don't lose sleep here. The hero blasters in the film didn't even have hengstlers or power cylinders on them.http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/209-screenshot72511jpg/  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/225-screenshot72531jpg/  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/231-screenshot72554jpg/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/508-screenshot72997jpg/

You will need to have correct t-tracks and the "D" ring on the back.  Yes, the blasters should look like they are "used" but don't be preoccupied with making them look like they have been through a combine. Some silver paint and a small paintbrush can go very far in making your blaster look weathered. My guide was to just lay my blaster down in many different positions and wherever it touched, I dabbed a little silver paint along that edge. The doopy do's and DVH kits will serve all your purposes

Edited August 9, 2013 by gazmosis

[PlayfulWolfCub]

The hero blasters in the film didn't even have hengstlers or power cylinders on them.

 

I agree with most of Steve's points but would like to add that some of the on-screen Hero blasters do have Power Cylinders. 

See various screenshot examples in this pdf I made of my E11 replicas:  https://www.dropbox.com/s/a9dfofb9kpi6zp1/E11%20Replicas.pdf 

 

(I did my best to make each replica as screen accurate as I could except "Tunisian" which uses a standard Sterling instead of a cast "dummy" one.)

 

Cheers, Andy

[Marv]

Andy, I think you went to a new stratophere with your cylinder builds, and would recommend these if your looking to have a hero E-11.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Marv has some nice T tracks, the rest as above but I would add that you don't need a internal barrel but I would suggest adding the 2 power cylinders

[Jaggered]

That you very much guys.

 

I did PM Andy ref his power cylinder type so I'll order the Detention Block type as he suggested although he did mention I may need to mod the muzzle but he wasn't sure.

Anyone able to confirm this & if mods are required what might that be???

 

I'll PM Marv ref his T-tracks, once again thank you all.

 

jAG

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

While the CRL isn't specific about hero blasters.... we love when people go overboard for Centurion The more details and effort you put in, the easier it is to approve your Centurion.

 

Good luck trooper. 

 

Aloha, 

 

-Eric

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

I would go with GINO T Track, power cells from andy and a resin scope and counter.

the wires 4 loops in series with thin wire would be great if you follow the examples shown.

The D ring can be metal easy! use a D ring from lowes!

the longer bolt showing though the cocking channel and a spring

for the front you need an inner barrel.

[jkno]

Marv has some nice T tracks, the rest as above but I would add that you don't need a internal barrel but I would suggest adding the 2 power cylinders

 

Exactly. Gino's T-tracks are way too expensive for just copies, and the way he wants to be paid doesn't inspire me as an international customer confidence. Marv has fantastic T-tracks, and are real, not fan made, Andy will make the best cyliders out there, and from time to time you can get real M38/M40 scopes and even real Hengstlers for good prices if you are patient. Sometimes you can go for a M38 A2 too and simply modify it by filling the middle groove. Good luck

[PlayfulWolfCub]

Thanks Marv 

 

I've got Gino's and Marv's T-track and they're both really good.  The width of Gino's is screen-accurate but it's very expensive. 

Here are some comparison photos of the 2 tracks.  (GIno's is on the left in each one):

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 1, 2021 by Sly11
Edited to restore images Sly11 2021

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

Gino always comes though with great product.  Marv also does a great job at being on time and on target!

it's the width of the track that matters.  and Gino has lowered his price a bit from years past!

 

I like how the original tracks completely cover the vent holes... like how Gino's profile works.

if only marv's track were thicker!@

[Locitus[Admin]]

I would like to revisit whatever proof Gino has of his dimensions. Anyone know if he posted it, and where? 

[jkno]

The funny thing is the Master Replicas Stormtrooper blaster t-tracks are a bit different from Gino's and we know the MR E-11 is very accurate and MR did it to the highest attention to detail.

[PlayfulWolfCub]

To my eye

 

The funny thing is the Master Replicas Stormtrooper blaster t-tracks are a bit different from Gino's

 

I haven't held a Master Replicas E11 but these Rebel Scum photos make the track look a different texture & colour to any screenshots or publicity shots I've seen of originals. The curves where the track enters the receiver holes seem a bit "stylised" too.  I'd say the MR sculptor put a bit of themselves into the design, rather than staying 100% screen-accurate:

 

http://www.rebelscum.com/photo.asp?image=/mr/mr-anhstormblaster11.jpg

 

Having used Gino's, I'm confident that it's very screen-accurate, though I'd be interested to see categorical "proof" too.

 

Cheers, Andy

Edited August 11, 2013 by PlayfulWolfCub

[jkno]

The MR T-tracks are made of plastic, and of course they are a bit idealized, in fact it may be the most idealized part of the blaster. But I'm quite sure the dimensions for the t-tracks themselves are good to the original screen used prop MR had in hand when they made this blaster. I own both Gino and Marv t-tracks, and I prefer the latter.

[Locitus[Admin]]

I know Gino has a good eye for detail, but I don't just take his word for it. Plus, even if he is right, it's an opportunity to learn more about them. And even if he has come down in price because of Marv and Mark's competition he still wants a lot of money for something he so far, at least from how it appears to me, simply 'says' is more accurate. Not good enough.

[Jaggered]

I've sent Gino a PM to check he's still around & offering his t-track.

Not sure myself Locitus but the impression I get from reading the FS thread is that he's based his dimensions from his own homework & it seems a number of ppl concur as they've ordered so I'll go with Gino.

There's also a link within the FS thread ref his pricing.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13295-t-track-for-blasters-and-sabers-for-sale/

 

Need to find a M38, seen a few sets FS however I'm a OS buyer

 

jAG

 

I would like to revisit whatever proof Gino has of his dimensions. Anyone know if he posted it, and where?

 

[Locitus[Admin]]

Yeah, I've seen the sale thread before. But the only picture of value is that of the EE-3. The rest are replicas and useless as proof. What's lacking is conclusive proof his track are the closest to the EE-3 and that the track on it is identical to the tracks on other props.

[jkno]

I know Gino is one of the best salesmen out there, he could sell a fridge to a polar bear.

 

I'd like that proof as well

[Jaggered]

Is the M38A2 acceptable as a scope?

What mods would I need to do to it or it's okay to slap her on?

 

jAG

[Jaggered]

Sorry forgot to ask, what are the differences between the M38 & M38A2?

[Locitus[Admin]]

On 8/12/2013 at 2:43 AM, Jaggered said:

Sorry forgot to ask, what are the differences between the M38 & M38A2?

Try searching

Link broken

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

This is a photo that GINO uses to show his T Track.

 

Image not recoverable