Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Well, poo pants. I thought of doing that but already had this grey for another project and as there is no call out on the CRL... Oh, well, I guess I will just repaint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 A few of us have just used he grey primer as I said earlier and then coated with clear, gives a nice dark grey appearance, really the TD is not an issue as the CRL doesn't say a particular grey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kessel Run[TK] Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 just remember the grey on the helmet is 1138 if you use testors paints coincidently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 Thanks, everyone. I think I will be consistent in the paint colors and use 1138. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted July 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 (edited) Ugh. So I sanded off the gray that was too light... Remasked the areas that will be used for e6000... ...and then I ended up with such a mess that it required i wipe it all off with mineral spirits... I can see why people just buy these damn things. Problems I had and need solutions for: 1. The brush hairs came off and stuck onto the freshly painted area. I used medium grade quality brush. 2. Air bubbles visible on fresh coat. I used a toothpick to stir the paint (did not shake). 3. Paint was very sticky and dried extremely fast. I used to make models using Testors in my youth and do not remember the paint becoming tacky in 15 seconds. This made painting almost impossible. The best solution I came up with is finding this exact paint in spray form but I do not think Testors offers it. Also, I will still have these problems when attempting to paint the helmet. Looking forward to constructive, insightful assistant...thanks! Edited July 29, 2013 by Tesla Machine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Make sure you use a high quality brush too as with the cheaper ones do loose a lot of hair. You may find that the paint you have is too thick, I had to apply 2 coats to my lid and my paint did not cover completely on the first coat, try a little paint mixed with thinners and see if that coats better. As to the TD sand it pack again, get some spray can grey primer then coat with a gloss clear, it will darken and it is acceptable for Centurion. Problem solved and no brush marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperTim Posted July 30, 2013 Report Share Posted July 30, 2013 I replied to your PM. Yeah, a dark primer paint and gloss coat would work. You can give Glen's suggestions a try. Thinning out the mix might help. On the Testors, shake the bottle. I don't think it was mixed properly. There are brush strokes visible all over mine. I can offer to paint your helmet, if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 30, 2013 Report Share Posted July 30, 2013 No brush strokes on my lid but I did use the humbrol paint. Just depends how long the paint is in storage is can thicken over time. Hopefully this is not a huge stumbling block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjsavage7[TK] Posted July 30, 2013 Report Share Posted July 30, 2013 Yeah, a dark primer paint and gloss coat would work. Thats how I did mine. It turned out nicely. All good advice though. You are making great progress with this build. I'm anxious to see more. Kudos for keeping at it so diligently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted July 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2013 Update on the TD coming soon. I feel like I am wasting my time trying to size the armor. Without a reference on front of me to go by, I am lost. Too many questions. It also seems to me that their should be an established order to size your suit. That is to say, doesn't the placement of the chest and ab piece help to determine the placement of the thighs? Same for the thighs to the calves? Which means - I. am. stuck. I guess I will go back and try to size the arm pieces again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted August 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 Third times-a-charm...I hope! Color matching test strip for spray paint Spray paint choice and TD re-sanded and re-masked Drying rig Close up After 2nd paint coat / 1st Clear coat 2nd Clear coat Dry fit test! Whadda think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 So here is what i have been working on. Feel free to answer any of the questions under the last few images: After trying many lids, I decided on using a highlighter pen cap for button mask size Used manicure scissors to cut out circle Secured down with paint can opener Looks good so I did the rest Not perfect but not bad, a little touch up later will be needed LEFT BICEP: What do I do about this? Cut along the red line? Then should the cover strip follow that same cut? And I noticed that the extra strips of ABS I have are slightly thicker than the actual armor. Is this a problem because it looks a little strange? TOP ABS: thickness of armor BOTTOM ABS: thickness of extra ABS for strips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clamps[TK] Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 So here is what i have been working on. Feel free to answer any of the questions under the last few images: After trying many lids, I decided on using a highlighter pen cap for button mask size Used manicure scissors to cut out circle Secured down with paint can opener Looks good so I did the rest Not perfect but not bad, a little touch up later will be needed nice use of the pen cap for masking template... so simple. I used a circle cutter on mine, but this is way easier. nice you should create a "how to" topic with this little gem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperTim Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 It also seems to me that their should be an established order to size your suit. That is to say, doesn't the placement of the chest and ab piece help to determine the placement of the thighs? Same for the thighs to the calves? Torso armor position is a big part of the build, in my opinion. Make sure the ab/kidney/butt sit where you want them to. Once you have that set, then you can worry about thigh placement. If needed, you can resize your greaves (cut some off the bottom) and have them sit lower, for mobility, once you get the thighs set. LEFT BICEP: What do I do about this? Cut along the red line? Then should the cover strip follow that same cut? And I noticed that the extra strips of ABS I have are slightly thicker than the actual armor. Is this a problem because it looks a little strange You can cut there if you want but you don't have to. The finishing strip will cover up and hide that misalignment; no one will ever see it. On most troopers the top of the biceps are hidden under the shoulder bells. Placmenet of the biceps will depend on how you have them attached to the shoulder bells / forearms. Once you get your TK built you're going to go back and trim/adjust after you troop in it a few times. Especially after walking a parade. It's just how it is. Most people don't get things sized or adjusted perfectly once they finish. I resized my thighs TWICE after I finished my build, and my right greave is still messed up and sized a bit too small at the ankle (opens up frequently, as you've noticed) and I never decided to fix it. I would recommend keep using the masking tape for sizing. I think it's the best method to help you during this process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Thanks, Tim. Do you think the thickness of my strips make the bicep look weird? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperTim Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 I'd go with the thicker strip for the outside. It'll look nicer. I don't think it matters though as far as requirements are concerned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted August 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 UPDATE: Touched up AB button plate, heat shaped the belt, sanded and started gluing biceps, started assembling helmet... A few gaps...so I masked and touched up using a toothpick The final result...decent Heat shaping the belt (thanks to Pandatrooper for the tip!) Result! Sanded biceps non matching top portions to an angle and did the same for the strips Prepped for gluing by roughing up the glue area with sandpaper... ...inside and out... ...and the glue portion of the strip... ...taped the inside to help hold it in place... ...glued the strip... ...and the bicep...(waited a couple of minutes before assembling) ...I found I needed a device to hold down the inside as the clamp "foot" is too big...tada!... ...and the waiting of 48 hours begins! Drilled the center helmet holes And assembled! Whew! Forearms and Thighs next I should think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REDBOY Posted August 10, 2013 Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 Good job so far.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 So, do I need to drill holes for three female snaps on my belt *before* I glue the buttons on the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 So, do I need to drill holes for three female snaps on my belt *before* I glue the buttons on the front? How else would you fit the snaps? BTW, the accurate way is to permanently rivet the ab belt to the canvas belt before covering the rivets with the covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Kinetic[TK] Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 there is more than one way to achieve it. For me to understand what you are stating, please clarify...rivets = snaps, covers = buttons...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 To fit snaps you need to drill a whole through the plastic so if you add the "rivet covers" (the squares with the circle dent in them) to the ab belt you will have to fit the snaps first. Same thing with using rivets. Snaps do not equal rivets. The correct rivet to use are cap rivets, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtrev503 Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 What about Chicago screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 If they fit, sure. But I seriously doubt that you will ever take your belt apart. My last belt used snaps and it was more hassle than benefit. Now it's permanently attached with rivets. Safe and secure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperTim Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 Mathius is correct. And there's always more than one way to accomplish it. I used snaps because I wanted to be able to detach the plastic and throw my belt in the washer if needed. Like I said, if you're wanting to do things similar to my setup, mine is different than most others. I followed others before me but modified it along the way to make it work the way I wanted. You have to find what works for YOU. There are tutorials and build threads you can look through to see how others have done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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