LeMaxim's DVH ANH BlasTech E11 build

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Since my last update I have received my RS PVC and started a build thread for that.

Still haven't worked up the courage to start cutting and fitting yet, but I'm getting the itch. 

 

Anyway. Did some more work on my blaster and got  back in track with that. 

 

Having gotten the base of the receiver body done I wanted to get the T-tracks fitted. 

 

Before starting to work with the T-tracks I really didn't know what to expect. For some reason they felt fragile. 

Very wrong assumption it seems. 

 

Since my receiver body is metal I figured I could fit them directly on the body without having to heat-bend-cool-fit. 

 

I started by filing the end of the tracks to arrows to facilitate in getting them into the vent holes. 

 

 

Once I positioned a track into the vent hole I simply trained my heat gun on the "joint" and slowly tried to get the heat evenly distributed around the base. 

When the track started to soften I put the heat gun away, pushed the track slightly further into the body to get a nice joint, and simply folded the track onto its desired position flush against the receiver body. 

 

 

It was during this step I noticed that the t-track actually turns very rubbery and can easily be shaped. I realise now that I should have expected that from plastic. Live and learn. 

 

It takes a while for the track to cool down and set, so while arrowing the next track I let my calliper do some work.

 

 

I repeated this with all 6 tracks until I had them all fitted in their forward vent hole. 

 

 

Here's where I realised that the back fitting would not be as simple. 

I wiggled them out to compose myself and to think of another strategy. 

 

T-Tracks in waiting

 

While figuring out the next step I started on filing down the flattened surface for the bayonet. I didn't get very far but I got it started. 

 

 

I wanted to have, at least, a hint of flatness. It's not very worked yet and I'll surely return to it at a later stage. From what I've read on other builds

it seems the bayonet flat is an overlooked detail and I wanted to have it.

 

 Next I refitted the t-tracks. They went into the receiver body quite a bit and I didn't like it so I decided to saw the excess away (one by one).

This, I hoped, would make the fitting of the other side much easier. 

 

  

 

It did help. Slightly. But as it turned out I had to redo a few as I sawed and fitted the other end of the T-track into the body. It was a tad tedious. 

 

 

Et voila! six t-tracks fitted in my IKEA-leg-receiver-body.

 

 

Here you can see that now all holes are created equal or straight, but instead of lamenting it I decided that it adds character.

It also proves that there are vent holes under the tracks and after all the sweat of getting the holes there I prefer if they play a part.

 

Lesson learned: 

I should have fitted the T-tracks from the back. Fold them forward and simply saw of the excess in front of the muzzle.

It would probably saved me time in fitting the "other end" and made the result prettier. 

Live and learn.

"Next time Gadget, next time." 

 

On to the next thing:

 

After having the tracks fitted I wanted to get some resin parts ready. 

 

I started with the exhaust shields. The resin pieces are moulded from shields still on an original receiver body and come with a lot of extras.

(Original pieces displayed and up for sale here)

 

Before and after, sort of. 

 

Testing the fit on the exhaust port. Not perfect, but a start and the glue/putty to hold it will play its part too. 

 

 

I also trimmed excess of the front sight. No detailed picture of the "finished" piece but I'm including the below picture as a reference for many of the pieces 

where you have parts of the original receiver body in the mould. Nice and gives you a good line to follow when trimming.

 

 

Next I wanted to get the coking handle and bolt fitted into the receiver body.

I started out with the ambition of leaving the cocking handle intact and simply drill open the bolt to fit it. 

This was a challenge as I only had a Dremel and no drill to take a bigger drill bit.

After going as deep as I could with the Dremel I continued by hand carving the rest with the drill bit in hand. My fingers hurt and I lost some skin. 

I deemed the hole good enough for its purpose and simply shaped the cocking handle to fit into the hole. 

 

  

 

When I got the cocking handle fitted it was time to slide. 

 

   

It did slide.

 

I did some polishing on the back sight and a few other pieces too and after a session in the ventilation box I was left with this mess

 

 

 

and these pieces.

 

 

 

Getting closer.

 

Seeing the pictures now, without goggles, sweat, and dust covering my eyes I see that many of the vent holes are visible... *sigh*... 

 

So troopers... should I putty them, toss it out an airlock, or should I continue to write it down as "giving it character"? 

 

Eventually I want this "character" to survive the discerning eyes of the Centurion tribunal.

 

Thoughts? 

 

 

[Dday[501st]]

Very well done on the tracks! A lot of blaster builds have the tracks that don't fit so well, the joints aren't flat and they look "wavey" for lack of a better term. From the photos, these looks super flat and very well done!

[scottjua]

Wow Great Work! I need to add some T track soon too. 

 

 

So did you just make the front inserts short enough to heat the back and bend them into place so they'll go in as the track lays flat? Do they stay well enough, or are you adding adhesive of some sort under them?

Edited July 24, 2013 by scottjua

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Wow Great Work! I need to add some T track soon too.

 

 

So did you just make the front inserts short enough to heat the back and bend them into place so they'll go in as the track lays flat? Do they stay well enough, or are you adding adhesive of some sort under them?

Thanks mate!

 

To try to answer your questions:

 

Bending.

I started inserting them in the front and then basically wiggled the back in.

I would however, as I wrote, to do the other way around. Start inserting them in the back and fold forward. Then shorten the over-shooting t-tracks in the front to easily bend them into place in the front.

I have not tried this but would do it like that if/when doing it again.

Two things to keep in mind.

1. Depending on the size of your vent holes you might want to shape the tracks to make entry simpler. I did an arrow-ish shape (see above pictures for reference).

2. My receiver body is in metal so it wasn't a problem to aim the heat gun directly at the track and body. If your body is on plastic it might soften together with the track.

 

Flatness.

As of now I feel they are secure and flush enough to skip glue or similar. I will, however, revisit this before the end to see if I'm still satisfied with the way it looks. If I do anything I will just reheat a bit and reshape. I don't see a need for glue now.

 

Hope this explains sufficiently. Let me know if you have any other thoughts or questions.

 

My build have been delayed a bit on account of receiving my armour. Building armour now.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[scottjua]

Cool thanks!

 

I was thinking of using some 3m VHB tape if any additional adhesive is needed mainly so it's removable and not permanent.

 

My blaster will be all metal so at least I'm safe there in regards to melting the barrel.

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Cool thanks!

 

I was thinking of using some 3m VHB tape if any additional adhesive is needed mainly so it's removable and not permanent.

 

My blaster will be all metal so at least I'm safe there in regards to melting the barrel.

Not sure what VHB is but if you are patient while bending the tracks you shouldn't need additional adhesive.

 

Ah. Yes. I read in another thread that you had scored a deactivated Sterling. Sweet deal! That would be a no-no in Sweden as you would need licence and all manners of security measurements to even own a deactivated one. To make it into a e11 display piece would not fly. Trooping with it would probably even be a criminal offence.

At any rate. Congrats on your score.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[dereferenced]

Looking great so far. Definitely going to be getting an ikea leg for my build.

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Looking great so far. Definitely going to be getting an ikea leg for my build.

Thanks mate!

I've gotten a bit delayed here due to armour-focus but will gear up soon again.

 

The IKEA leg was a nice find. Nearly perfect and easy to come by. A bit more tricky to work with than PVC though. I'm glad I could share this tip.

[Logon]

Feel like a bit of a stalker of you LeMaxim but both your builds are very informative so i took ideas from you.
I bought an Ikea leg myself and have drilled all the holes, and a tip for anyone that is going to do this is to get a bench drill (almost a requirement if you want it straight) bought one myself for 75 dollars which has 1 - 13 mm capacity very good investment.

[gazmosis[501st]]

Just curious...what are you going to use as an adhesive to connect the resin to the metal?

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Feel like a bit of a stalker of you LeMaxim but both your builds are very informative so i took ideas from you.

I bought an Ikea leg myself and have drilled all the holes, and a tip for anyone that is going to do this is to get a bench drill (almost a requirement if you want it straight) bought one myself for 75 dollars which has 1 - 13 mm capacity very good investment.

Stalk on my friend. If it wasn't for my own stalking I would not know what to do myself.

I'm glad I'm able to offer ideas and pointers for my fellow troopers to be.

 

Where did you manage to score a 75 dollar bench drill? That sounds like a great find.

 

Just curious...what are you going to use as an adhesive to connect the resin to the metal?

I actually haven't tackled that yet but were thinking of a combo of super glue and putty. And possibly a screw or two.

[Logon]

Stalk on my friend. If it wasn't for my own stalking I would not know what to do myself.

I'm glad I'm able to offer ideas and pointers for my fellow troopers to be.

 

Where did you manage to score a 75 dollar bench drill? That sounds like a great find.

 

 

I actually haven't tackled that yet but were thinking of a combo of super glue and putty. And possibly a screw or two.

http://www.jula.se/pelarborrmaskin-350w-254017

It was 499:- when i bought it a week or 2 ago up to 13mm it's perfect.

 

 

One question how are you going to do with the ring on the end cap? I cannot figure out a good way, either cut off the entire "U" and glue it back together or try and bend the ring... Read another DVH thread and they got 2 holders but i only have one.

[Locitus[Admin]]

The way I did my end cap ring was to bend it open into like a J shape and stick the straight part through the hole and bend it back to the original shape. The opening of the ring will be on the outside.

[LeMaxim[TK]]

I also just have one end cap too.

My build is on hold now due to armour building and lack of access to the workshop I'm building the blaster in.

 

I would/will do something like what Locitus suggests with my D-Ring but it will depend on how easy the ring bends.

 

Nice find of the drill. Good option for us here in Sweden to get an affordable pillar drill. The only other I've seen were 4-7 times more expensive. They had laser aim and stuff, which is cool, but the price put them a bit out of range for my limited need. Thanks for the tip.

[Logon]

The way I did my end cap ring was to bend it open into like a J shape and stick the straight part through the hole and bend it back to the original shape. The opening of the ring will be on the outside.

 

Hmm, Where did you buy your endcap ring?

The one i got with the kit would look silly.

http://trooperbay.com/e-11-blaster-d-rings/ has them but buying from the US seems silly for something this common.

Would it be too much to ask for measurements? wire diameter, width, and how broad it is and if you bought it at a metal shop or biltema or something.

 

 

I also just have one end cap too.

My build is on hold now due to armour building and lack of access to the workshop I'm building the blaster in.

 

I would/will do something like what Locitus suggests with my D-Ring but it will depend on how easy the ring bends.

 

Nice find of the drill. Good option for us here in Sweden to get an affordable pillar drill. The only other I've seen were 4-7 times more expensive. They had laser aim and stuff, which is cool, but the price put them a bit out of range for my limited need. Thanks for the tip.

 

Best thing about it is that it's very simple and has a around 550 RPM with a proper gearbox(altho you need to change it manually but very easy) which is almost ideal for drilling in metal.

Edited August 14, 2013 by Logon

[Locitus[Admin]]

I got mine from Karin/Sonnenschein. Look her up on facebook. She's in Austria and I'm sure she's happy to sell you one cheap. Postage takes around 3 weeks though since they move it all by truck.

 

Wire thickness is around 3 mm I would guess. Very stiff.

[Logon]

I got mine from Karin/Sonnenschein. Look her up on facebook. She's in Austria and I'm sure she's happy to sell you one cheap. Postage takes around 3 weeks though since they move it all by truck.

 

Wire thickness is around 3 mm I would guess. Very stiff.

 

I might as well buy from trooperbay/look around here in that case, need decals from there anyway

Thanks tho!

[LeMaxim[TK]]

I might as well buy from trooperbay/look around here in that case, need decals from there anyway

Thanks tho!

For reference. Here's my kit D-ring. I guess you got the same. I don't have it at hand but had this picture.

 

http://m1275.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/LeMaxim501st/DVH%20ANH%20E11%20BlasTech%20Build/IMG_2674_zps318be667.jpg.html?o=87

[Logon]

For reference. Here's my kit D-ring. I guess you got the same. I don't have it at hand but had this picture.

 

http://m1275.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/LeMaxim501st/DVH%20ANH%20E11%20BlasTech%20Build/IMG_2674_zps318be667.jpg.html?o=87

 

Exactly but i don't think that'll do for centurion E11.

Don't know the shipping from trooperbay but the rings are just 3$

[Locitus[Admin]]

It will do fine for centurion.

[Logon]

It will do fine for centurion.

 

huh... then i guess it will do that design is much easier as it does not require that big of a bend.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Since the opening will be hidden by the end cap you can't tell the difference.

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Thanks Logon and Locitus. A future question of mine have been answered today.

[Logon]

Well that didn't work out....

It was entirely to thick to bend it in a good way so i used a hammer to bend it outward and then put it in a vice to bend it in again, the problem is that it was movable, but not straight and i was afraid i was going to ruin the resin piece so i cut it away not to hurt it.

Guess i will have to buy a new ring

Edited August 14, 2013 by Logon

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Well that didn't work out....

It was entirely to thick to bend it in a good way so i used a hammer to bend it outward and then put it in a vice to bend it in again, the problem is that it was movable, but not straight and i was afraid i was going to ruin the resin piece so i cut it away not to hurt it.

Guess i will have to buy a new ring

 

That's too bad.

 

I found something that might work. I have more than one so if you PM me your address I'll send one to you tomorrow for you to try out. 

 

And also. Since you have started with your build you should start a build thread.