Building An Alternative to Blastercore: E-11 Sound/LED Board

[swmand4]

I've seen a few threads pop up lately about Blastercore and other sound/LED boards for blasters. It seems like they're either hard to come by or a bit difficult for some to integrate. While looking at some stuff in this thread and this thread, I was thinking it would be fairly easy to make my own version of the Blastercore - it's not too far from what I do for a living anyway! Before I begin, let me say thank you to those who have made their own versions before me. I will most likely borrow ideas from their systems to build up mine.

 

So here's my goal: Create my own easy-to-use E-11 sound board with various LED capability. I want it to be a complete package that takes little effort to integrate with an E-11 blaster build. Plug-and-play, so to speak (for basic functions).

 

I've put a few hours into researching requirements, parts, software, etc. and started my hardware schematic layout. Here's what I have so far in terms of system functions and requirements:

 

• Plays a sound from an integrated speaker when the trigger is pulled. (trigger switch still undetermined)
• Sounds are stored on a microSD card.
• Audio formats supported is MP3.
• Will run firmware with open source libraries for RTOS and FAT file system, so final code will be made available per open source requirements.
• Powered by rechargeable 7.2V Li-Ion battery pack, mounted in clip/receiver well. (I don't know if it will fit, so this might change.)
• Power LED indicates system is turned on. Other switch turns on electronics.
• The Sterling fire rate selector switch on the blaster will select between single shot and full auto (plus a third mode... stun?).
• An LED light bar mounted in the counter box will display either "rifle power" like with the Blastercore, or actual battery pack charge remaining.
• A volume control knob will adjust audio levels. It would be cool to make the button on the magazine receiver do this, but I don't know if it's feasible.
• A separate button on the counter box will be used for configuration and setup (switch between gun types? sound classes?).
• A super bright LED pixel will be mounted in the blaster barrel to emit bright beam on trigger pull (red for kill, blue for stun, green optional because it exists).
• LEDs mounted in the barrel will emulate propagation of blaster bolt out of gun (red for kill, blue for stun, green optional because why not).
• Barrel propagation LEDs will be mounted on a printed circuit board to make it easier to connect to main electronics and integrate into blaster barrel. Also helps with alignment. (This is a flexible requirement, based on cost. May switch to a loose chain of discrete LEDs. May also be inside light diffusing inner barrel.)
• There will be 9 barrel LEDs, despite the ANH variant having a bayonet-lug over one of them. This way, even an ROTJ blaster without the lug will look right and an ANH blaster will propagate correctly (no "skip" over covered hole).
• A rumble pack in the blaster will vibrate when the trigger is pulled to help simulate firing the weapon.

 

If the electronics work well enough at the end and there is enough interest, I may produce a run of them. I will try to keep this post updated as I make progress, but I still have to build my armor and do other things... like go to work and spend time with family and friends. In the mean time, I would love to hear any ideas for things you would like to see integrated into the system or thoughts on what I have so far!

 

Here's a litte something to whet your appetite:

Edited June 20, 2013 by swmand4

[Bernarr]

Why not use a normal microswitch instead of a magnet/hall sensor?

[Locitus[Admin]]

If you think you can pull this off then I'd be happy to assist in any way I can. Open source and if possible open hardware would be very helpful for the community long term.

[swmand4]

Why not use a normal microswitch instead of a magnet/hall sensor?

Because I tend to over-engineer things. A micro switch would work as well.

 

I'm also thinking it would be awesome to include a rumble pack for force feedback when firing the blaster.

[Bernarr]

Oh dude, vibration motors are good for that too! I've used them in pistols, and they turn out pretty well. They give a nice realistic kick.

[TurboPunk]

This is something I'd be interested in. I'll be following this thread.

[swmand4]

I've decided to ditch multiple audio formats in favor of strictly MP3. The original idea is overkill and bloats software, physical space, and cost.

[Evilboy[501st]]

I am SO on board with this. I am not an electronics geek but anything I can do, with mechanical functioning and fabrication, I would love to lend a hand...

[swmand4]

Mathias and Jon, I appreciate the offer to help out. I'll need to construct another E-11 with a pipe kit. Anyone know anything about the Doopydoo's alternative someone here on the forums made? I can't seem to find the link, but I would want that kit. From what I remember, it was better than Doopy's and I like that it's made by a member of the community. Jon - I might look to you to buy a scope rail/t-bracket at some point.

 

I've also decided to switch to a larger voltage, lower capacity battery (still rechargable). I thought I could get away with a boost regulator, but the amount of current the super bright LEDs pull makes it more or less impractical. Which brings me to my next question: does anyone know the interior dimensions of the magazine/reciever? I need to know what size battery will fit in there...

[Locitus[Admin]]

Darth Voorhees recently made a pipe kit and sold two runs on here. Check with him if he has any left.

As for the battery, I think you'll fit a 9 volt easily. But for specific measurements I suggest going through this thread, it ought to be in there somewhere. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/
I would look it up myself for you, but I got to head to work in a minute.
 
Edit: found a post that I think has what you are looking for in terms of dimensions: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/page-8#entry204846 and http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/page-9#entry206936

Edited May 6, 2013 by Locitus

[skyone]

As for the battery, I think you'll fit a 9 volt easily.

a 9 volts battery would last very short, their amperage is around 200mAh

a lithium battery with a minimum amperage of 600mAh is strongly suggested, such as 2x 18650 batteries

http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650Summary%20UK.html

2 of them can fit inside the blaster pipe

Edited May 6, 2013 by skyone

[swmand4]

A 9V battery, while it would fit, was never an option. E-11s weren't meant to be single shot, "bolt-action" rifles

What I'm looking at is a 7.2V Li-Ion battery pack using two 14430 cells. I can squeeze ~650mAh out of one of those packs and it should fit inside the magazine/receiver. Depending on how deep the magazine and receiver are, I might be able to jam a 4-cell pack in there for ~1300mAh. So much for my original 4400mAh target

Thanks Mathias for those links. That's exactly what I was looking for. Here's a mock up of how the battery pack will fit. The outer lines are the magazine edges and the inner and circles are the battery pack.

Edited May 11, 2013 by swmand4

[Locitus[Admin]]

9 volt battery was a example of size, rather than a suggestion based on its capacity. Either way, I'm glad the links contained what you needed.

[swmand4]

After some more research, I could in fact go with the boost regulator design. If someone made a 3.6V Li-Ion pack with the 14430 cells, I could easily get 1300mAhr out of it. But alas, no one seems to make them. I could design my own protection circuit and make my own 3.6V 1300mAhr pack out of unprotected cells, but that's getting out of my field and into potentially dangerous territory. So it looks like I'm sticking with the 7.2V Li-Ion pack for now. Maybe one day it will be cost effective to have a custom battery made by a company that knows what it's doing.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Wouldn't any of these work? They seem to have well beyond 1300mAh.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-PANASONIC-NCR-18650-A-Li-Ion-3100mAh-3-6V-Rechargeable-Lithium-BATTERY-18700-/360609416740?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item53f5ff0624
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Genuine-PANASONIC-NCR-18650B-Li-Ion-3400mAh-3-6V-Rechargeable-Lithium-BATTERY-/360648238598?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item53f84f6606
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3600mAH-3-6V-Lithium-Battery-Pack-for-Sony-PSP-1-PSP1000-PlayStation-New-9146-/150817619699?pt=UK_Batteries&hash=item231d6e3ef3
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2Pcs-UltraFire-18650-4000mAh-3-6-4-2V-Lithium-Batteries-Black-UK-/190835514509?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item2c6eaedc8d

[swmand4]

Wouldn't any of these work? They seem to have well beyond 1300mAh.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-PANASONIC-NCR-18650-A-Li-Ion-3100mAh-3-6V-Rechargeable-Lithium-BATTERY-18700-/360609416740?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item53f5ff0624

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Genuine-PANASONIC-NCR-18650B-Li-Ion-3400mAh-3-6V-Rechargeable-Lithium-BATTERY-/360648238598?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item53f84f6606

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3600mAH-3-6V-Lithium-Battery-Pack-for-Sony-PSP-1-PSP1000-PlayStation-New-9146-/150817619699?pt=UK_Batteries&hash=item231d6e3ef3

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2Pcs-UltraFire-18650-4000mAh-3-6-4-2V-Lithium-Batteries-Black-UK-/190835514509?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item2c6eaedc8d

True those are a higher capacity, but they are a larger size that will not fit inside the magazine and receiver. The 14430 size will, but has a smaller capacity. The only pre-made pack I could find using the battery size I want is wired in series for 7.2v. If anyone made a pack wired in parallel, I could get twice the capacity at 3.6v (I'd also need a boost regulator to generate 7.2v for the bright LEDs). Edited May 11, 2013 by swmand4

[swmand4]

Prepare for a massive update! As in, a lot of images. I've finished my first pass at the electronics schematic and PCB layout. And wow did I underestimate how many connectors I would need! Everything posted below is subject to change. Some connector labels are missing as of now. Some external hardware such as switches have not been selected as of yet.

 

The board size is 1.3" (33mm) X 3.65" (92.71mm).

 

The plan as it stands is to create a separate PCB for the LED light bar inside the counter box and connect to it via a flat flex cable. This way, I can push the LED driver to the secondary board and make the main board a bit smaller. The secondary board will also have the power on indicator LED. Note: I have not done this board so there are no pictures of it yet.

 

I also want to create a PCB for the barrel propagation LEDs so there's no extra work involved (soldering wires to leads, etc.) I'm a bit concerned about the spacing of the the vent holes, though. I assume not everyone has them in exactly the same spot, so the fixed positions that work for me may not work for everyone...

 

Current design is based on rechargeable 7.2V Li-Ion battery pack. It has support for charging via external 12VDC power.

 

All devices that need to connect to the main board do so via a connector, so no soldering is required. There are various types including FFC, sub-mini, right angle and vertical plugs (1.25mm and 1mm pitch).

 

A microSD card stores all MP3s and is inserted from the end cap side of the main barrel.

 

I'm sure I'm forgetting a lot, but now on to pictures! First, the schematics:

 

 

The PCB layout:

 

 

And last, a corss-section fit test of all tall components to make sure they will fit. The bottom right one will not be installed outside of my own development and testing.

 

Edited May 16, 2013 by swmand4

[skyone]

seems a professional work, it's much better and easier to have a single PCB

 

i see you are going to use an ATMEGA328P mcu, the same used on arduino, maybe also the programming is the same?

 

keep up the good work!

Edited May 17, 2013 by skyone

[swmand4]

seems a professional work, it's much better and easier to have a single PCB

 

i see you are going to use an ATMEGA328P mcu, the same used on arduino, maybe also the programming is the same?

 

keep up the good work!

 

Thanks, Manuel.

 

It's actually a coincidence that the MCUs are the same. I've been a fan of the ATMEGA328P for a while and tend to favor it for electronics projects.

 

Unfortunately, the code will not be the same. This is not an Arduino project and therefore uses different libraries and a different compiler. I'll be using AVR Studio 5 with a GNU C compiler and Free RTOS. Still researching free libraries and how to read data from an SD card...

 

If you've posted the code for your Arduino based sound board, I might want to borrow certain elements of it (with your permission, of course). Or at least use it to help give me ideas when I write my own version.

[skyone]

you can get the code from the arduino e11 topic, there is the download attachment at the bottom of the first post. To read the file you will need the arduino compiler, link on the same topic

and it's free of use of course

[Bernarr]

I've been using this library for SD cards, it's for the Arduino, but maybe you can adapt it to your own use-

http://www.hackerspace-ffm.de/wiki/index.php?title=SimpleSDAudio

[swmand4]

I've made quite a bit of progress on the hardware. I discovered a labeling issue with the batteries in the schematic for the main board. I had multiple names for the same net so none of them were connected correctly. Fixing the layout required rotating a few things around and completely overhauling the inner power plane. It should be fine now. I added two holes down the center for possible mounting with a #2 screw. I'm not sure how the board would be mounted to a circular surface, but the option is there nonetheless.

 

I've been trying to come up with a name for this thing, something that rivals  the ring of Blastercore. Unfortunately, all I've come up with is "The Pew-Pew Maker". Suggestions are welcome

 

The counter box LED board is more or less finished. I did my best to match the look and placement of a real Hengstler... If someone has the dimensions and part placements of the real deal, maybe I can make it a bit more accurate. I also added the blue power LED to the front (facing the same direction as the 10-segment LED bars). Hopefully this is acceptable. Any thoughts on the power LED placement?

 

A 7-pin flat flex cable will connect the counter board to the main board. The connector is facing backwards into the box to make routing the cable easier. If you look at the cross-section below, the board is designed to have a faceplate put over it to make the LED bars flush with the surface. Thus, the power status LED and the configuration button stick up and off the faceplate a bit. There is a hole for a #2 mounting screw at each corner. These can be used for attaching the faceplate or attaching the board to the Hengstler box or both.

 

The board is 1.75" (44.45mm) by 0.75" (19.05mm).

 

Real Hengstler 400 counter box (photo from stormtrooperguy.com):

 

Part placement:

 

Front:

 

Back:

 

Cross section:

Edited May 23, 2013 by swmand4

[swmand4]

I'm starting to consider options for the barrel propagation effect. The easiest and cheapest to implement would be LEDs mounted in the exposed vent holes. I want something that looks better. What I'm thinking is something like the

blade. How cool would it be to have an inner barrel that's close to the correct diameter AND lights up to simulate a bolt passing through the barrel?

 

If I can find a tube with the correct outer diameter and LED diffusing film/spray/whatever I could construct an LED circuit board to put inside it. This way, the colored light emanates from all sides instead of just one line of vent holes and you get the inner barrel. The electronics board that would go inside the tube would basically be a scaffolding with cutouts where the LEDs would be mounted. I wanted to post a picture of this that I saw while looking at lightsabers, but for the life of me, I cannot find it again

 

EDIT: Can any confirm the real diameter of the inner barrel? I found something floating around the forum that looks like 15.8mm might be correct and 5/8" is really close.

Edited May 24, 2013 by swmand4

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

Why not use a normal microswitch instead of a magnet/hall sensor?

some would use a hall switch on a real sterling trigger group, since there's no room for a switch!

[Locitus[Admin]]

The barrel tapers from back to front. This was the best picture i could find in the thread you linked: