The5thHorseman[501st] Posted October 30, 2013 Report Posted October 30, 2013 Looks like you know what you have to do. I would just recommand you to heatform your butt plate before cutting anything Waiting for your pictures when you'll be ready Quote
evoxpilot Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Posted October 30, 2013 Looks like you know what you have to do. I would just recommand you to heatform your butt plate before cutting anything Waiting for your pictures when you'll be ready My wife took some pics, but they are rather poor quality with her phone and I will need to redo on my own. Regarding the butt plate, I will take a pic of the edge that needs to be trimmed much later today which is similar to kidney plate edge (left side) that I trimmed that was excess. The fine tuning is actually pretty fun. Quote
evoxpilot Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Posted October 30, 2013 Butt plate extra material I am not sure I need and also not screen accurate. I will heat shape all three sides first. Quote
SCTrooper[TK] Posted October 30, 2013 Report Posted October 30, 2013 The rivets, did you put a washer on each side, this will keep it from pulling thru the belt. Thighs can be notched in the back on the knee, like the above photo's. Sniper plate, the glue probably didn't set up fully, you could peel the glue off and sand both surfaces and glue and clamp the hell out of it and let it set for a few days. Quote
evoxpilot Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) The holster rivets I added four split / bifurcated total included a washer on the back for support. I noticed that on the others. I originally used a blind rivet, obviously did not work well. I did not see the photos you reference, but I think I could find them. Regarding the sniper plate, its probably because I put the shins on too high around my calves (large from running / training) and pop. I will try gluing again though; however I may try a binding post if the whole thing comes off! The rivets, did you put a washer on each side, this will keep it from pulling thru the belt. Thighs can be notched in the back on the knee, like the above photo's. Sniper plate, the glue probably didn't set up fully, you could peel the glue off and sand both surfaces and glue and clamp the hell out of it and let it set for a few days. Edited October 30, 2013 by evoxpilot Quote
SCTrooper[TK] Posted October 30, 2013 Report Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) The shins a really flexible and should not be a problem. The photo of the thighs is on the previous page you used for holster reference. I used chicago screws on the holster, hd has them. Edited October 30, 2013 by SCTrooper Quote
evoxpilot Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) The shins a really flexible and should not be a problem. The photo of the thighs is on the previous page you used for holster reference. I used chicago screws on the holster, hd has them. I used bifurcated have a pretty good hold. I removed the return edge of the bottom rear section of the thighs and that allow me some more movement. Would notching the back of the thigh at the bottom prevent a future application for Centurion status? Edited October 31, 2013 by evoxpilot Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 Notching the back of the thighs is canon, so don't worry about your Centurion application Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 It looks like you're using pop rivets to hold your thigh ammo belt on though, and those will affect centurion status. Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 Mathias is right. Ideally it should be 7mm CAP rivets, but split rivets are allowed too for centurion Quote
evoxpilot Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Posted October 31, 2013 First pictures of the fitment with it all together and all kinds of gaps and opportunities for improvement. Keep in mind, I have done very little or no trimming except a small amount were need to close some of the parts. As always I welcome the comments and pics are below (my wife still did not listen on how I wanted them to be taken, she will not be fired yet). My quick assessment: - Given my long torso I am getting some gaps between the back, kidney, and butt plates. Seems that I may be able to lower the back to correct. Thankfully I am using the elastic / Velcro that came with the suit so I can adjust before using an alternative.- Butt plate needs to be trimmed and heat formed, it sticks out on the sides. - Butt plate is still linked to the ab plate with elastic but digs in when it pull through. Possible trimming on the sides of the to easy the rubbing / biting.- Shoulder bells need to come forward. - Arms - Need to redo the bell/bicep/forearms with a longer piece of elastic It is not enough to measure when it comes to the elastic when it is connected to the bicep. - Little or no room under the bells.- Re-do the strapping for the front / back to improve the fitment and hopefully eliminate / narrow the gaps- Revisit the thighs measurement, they are just a little too long and can barely bend the knee with everything one. I may trim the inner thigh to improved to fit and mobility. - Thighs currently suspended with velcro front and back, need to build a garter system once the trimming / fitment is improved. - Replace existing rivets on battery pack thigh with cap rivets (splits) - Need some helmet fans, wow. sweaty - Paint inside of helmet black.- Fit the belt and measure for the snaps for attaching the belt. Currently velcro. - Sniper plate came a part on the outer side, so I may need to figure that one out. I read a screw / binding post mounted on the inside will make it more secure.- Kidney rivets need installing for screen accuracy. - Repaint front buttons with French Blue. - Thermal Detonator reconstructed for screen accuracy. - Right shin: Digs into the boots on the right side, need some sanding / or padding to reduce the rubbing. - Left shin rotates inward: I read about a button fix, will do that for both sides. Quote
SCTrooper[TK] Posted November 1, 2013 Report Posted November 1, 2013 Hi,I am 6' 2" and sport the same armor, just wondering how tall you are. I may have some suggestions depending on your height. I didn't read through the whole thread. Quote
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted November 1, 2013 Report Posted November 1, 2013 Hey man... a few suggestions... Both your chest and back (more so your back) can probably be lowered. Just use a longer bit of white elastic that connects the two. Your ab/cod can come up too to allow the ab to go under the chest. There should be an overlap. Your butt and kidney plate will come up with it all to meet the lowered back. It looks like you have a pretty good sized return edge on the top of your ab plate. I'd maybe trim that or it might become uncomfortable or make your armor look weird. I can't quite tell but I think you can trim the sides of the chest armor a little bit more. There's a tab or something on the lower side edges (if that makes any sense) The should bell elastic that goes around the bicep will help quite a bit. I'm not quite sure what to do about the drop boxes. Like RT I think the NE belt is a little big. The drop box outer edge should be aligned with the outer edge of the belt. On a screen sized belt that falls just about right over the thigh cover strips. I'm afraid if you move your drop boxes outboard they may end up being too far out. Anyone else have thoughts on this? You can't bend your knee because your thighs are too low. Once you raise the torso armor you'll be able to raise the thighs and walk more easily. There's nothing you can do about it but I've noticed that NE has a totally weird ridge on the sides of the ab plate that I'm iffy on. I wonder if FISD can peer pressure them into fixing that. The NE butt plate is also a weird shape. But such is life with a fan sculpt such as this. My wife is a pretty good photographer when it comes to family photos... but I can't get her to take photos of me in costume properly. It's pretty funny/frustrating. -Eric Quote
evoxpilot Posted November 1, 2013 Author Report Posted November 1, 2013 I am 6'3". Any suggestions would help. I have done very little if any trimming on the body sections (makes me nervous) and thought I would put it all together (with velcro mainly) and start tweaking it. Hi,I am 6' 2" and sport the same armor, just wondering how tall you are. I may have some suggestions depending on your height. I didn't read through the whole thread. Quote
evoxpilot Posted November 1, 2013 Author Report Posted November 1, 2013 Thanks for the suggestions I will add to my list and start posting pictures as I attack them. Hey man... a few suggestions... Both your chest and back (more so your back) can probably be lowered. Just use a longer bit of white elastic that connects the two. Your ab/cod can come up too to allow the ab to go under the chest. There should be an overlap. Your butt and kidney plate will come up with it all to meet the lowered back. It looks like you have a pretty good sized return edge on the top of your ab plate. I'd maybe trim that or it might become uncomfortable or make your armor look weird. I can't quite tell but I think you can trim the sides of the chest armor a little bit more. There's a tab or something on the lower side edges (if that makes any sense) The should bell elastic that goes around the bicep will help quite a bit. I'm not quite sure what to do about the drop boxes. Like RT I think the NE belt is a little big. The drop box outer edge should be aligned with the outer edge of the belt. On a screen sized belt that falls just about right over the thigh cover strips. I'm afraid if you move your drop boxes outboard they may end up being too far out. Anyone else have thoughts on this? You can't bend your knee because your thighs are too low. Once you raise the torso armor you'll be able to raise the thighs and walk more easily. There's nothing you can do about it but I've noticed that NE has a totally weird ridge on the sides of the ab plate that I'm iffy on. I wonder if FISD can peer pressure them into fixing that. The NE butt plate is also a weird shape. But such is life with a fan sculpt such as this. My wife is a pretty good photographer when it comes to family photos... but I can't get her to take photos of me in costume properly. It's pretty funny/frustrating. -Eric Quote
SCTrooper[TK] Posted November 2, 2013 Report Posted November 2, 2013 (edited) What Eric said plus, attach the chest to the ab piece with straps and snap plates and do the same with the kidney and back armor. This will keep the parts where they belong and spaced correctly, then you can make adjustments to the chest and back straps. Being taller like you,I got the chest piece to overlap the ab by 1" or so, just enough to keep it in place. Use elastic that is woven in two direction, the elastic that comes with the kit is to wimpy and tends to stretch to far. Most fabric stores will have this in stock. I used a heat gun to bend the butt piece so it fit better between the legs, and didn't hang down so far. You may not have to do this. The bells will sit better by installing another snap more foreword on the chest and back strap. You look really good, just a few adjustments and your there. Edited November 3, 2013 by SCTrooper Quote
maxsteele[TK] Posted November 8, 2013 Report Posted November 8, 2013 Hey ya Darren! I'm building NE right now. From all my research and suggestions, here is how I cut my chest, kidney, and butt plates: Chest - I removed the extra flashing on the lower sides: I took out the "L" shape on the kidney: And I took off the flashing on the top sides of the butt plate: Those changes will certainly make your kidney and butt plate wrap around your torso differently, which could pull in other gaps elsewhere. Quote
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