My NE build

[rugbyrat]

The belt should be straightened and raised.  The top of the belt should touch the bottom of the ab button plate.

[Aussietrooper]

David,

 

I put foam in the shins as Glenn suggested. I also put a strip of Velcro on the front of my boots & the inside of the shin & it holds it in place beautifully. It stops then turning & from moving up and down.

 

Andrew.

[Minuteman]

Just got a question:

 

Why did you put (hero) bubble lenses into a stunt helmet?

[TK 69169[TK]]

Looks like my mistake.  I thought for sure I saw some of the centurian submissions using the bubble lenses.  Now I can't find them.  Can anyone chime in and let me know if this needs to be corrected?

 

 

[Minuteman]

Yeah I can chime in:

 

For ANH stunt approval it is necessary to use flat lenses ( Have a look at the CRL http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt )

 

There are definitely no approved stunt Centurions with bubble lenses.

Believe me: You need to change those lenses for flat lens material

 

The rest is looking good.

Although I always start with the outer black lines when painting the details, yours are looking good.

[TK 69169[TK]]

As many times as I read those guidelines, I can't believe I missed this.  Thanks guys.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Don't forget to taper the frown. You're missing the last two grey areas. It's not supposed to end "square".

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

 

[TK 69169[TK]]

Anyone know a good way to totally remove paint?  Paint thinner?  Magic eraser and goo b gone?  The black outlines on the vents came through a bit thicker than I want, and I think it would be easier to start the tube stripes on the right from scratch instead of trying to clean them up.

[TK 69169[TK]]

Do i need to cut out another hole before I paint the last tooth on either side? Or just paint the extreme corners and leave the white plastic between the last teeth and the ones I need to paint in?

[Locitus[Admin]]

Do i need to cut out another hole before I paint the last tooth on either side? Or just paint the extreme corners and leave the white plastic between the last teeth and the ones I need to paint in?

No, leave the teeth as they are, just paint the last pieces grey. Look at reference images in our photo gallery (link up top).

[bdgr[501st]]

Anyone know a good way to totally remove paint?  Paint thinner?  Magic eraser and goo b gone?  The black outlines on the vents came through a bit thicker than I want, and I think it would be easier to start the tube stripes on the right from scratch instead of trying to clean them up.

 

 

piklz36 posted a link on how to remove paint from a helmet on page 1 of your thread.  Here is the link again: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19815-dry-paint-removal-the-right-way/?hl=%2Bpaint#entry242105%C2%A0

[gazmosis[501st]]

Use the same thinner as the brand of paint you are using. It won't harm the plastic. One other thing I noticed are the metal clips on you detonator should almost be touching the outer caps. Yours are a bit too centered. Just take your time painting the black outlines and details on your helmet. There is a big difference between the "hand painted look" and a total mess.

Edited July 6, 2013 by gazmosis

[TK 69169[TK]]

Thanks guys, one step forward, two steps back

[TK 69169[TK]]

Thanks for the tips guys. We've been able to correct everything. Our major problem is the knee plate getting stuck under the thigh when I walk, any tips or pics would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

[Echo[TK]]

One thing that helps me with the knee plate is I took a piece of 1" foam and place it behind the top of the shin. I didn't even glue it in. After I put on the shin, I just shove it down in the top and its enough to keep the sniper plate from catching on my thigh.

[MightyTank[501st]]

I would trim over an inch from the top of the thighs. This will make it much more comfortable to walk and fix your knee issue.

 

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[TK 69169[TK]]

Helmet complete and ready for submission?? (I am waiting for a new rubber seal to come in the mail)

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 17, 2013 by Uriarte69

[MightyTank[501st]]

Looks great! Good job

 

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[Echo[TK]]

Overall good. If you decide to apply for EIB or Centurion, a suggestion to replace the ears when the NE maker has their replacements ready.

 

Also, the tube stripes look a bit too long.

 

Good luck on your approval.

 

And congrats on finishing your build.

[TK 69169[TK]]

Thanks, those ears were a pain. I wanted them to go up to the trim, but there was just no way to make that happen. I may redo the tube stripes, not sure yet. Is there a recommended length? Any ideas on how to fix them without totally redoing them?

[Daetrin[Admin]]

Looks like you're almost ready. However to me it looks like your left thigh still needs some adjustment to fit right - seems it's not sitting on you correct. It's certainly rotating outboard. I think if you fix that, you won't have as much of an issue with the sniper plate.

 

Can't wait to see your EI submission

[TK 69169[TK]]

This weekend I'm going to trim the thighs at the top and put some foam behind the sniper plate.  I also may do something to keep the biceps in place.  Then I should be ready.  Thanks to everyone on this board for their help.

[TK 69169[TK]]

Is there a link to approved submission pictures anywhere? I'm aware of the EIB and Centurian boards where they post submission pics. I've also read the guidelines for submission pics. I'm just looking for something I can pass on to my photographer so they can see what a set of approved pics would look like. I'm just going for regular TK stunt approval. I did search but came up empty. Feel free to post your approved pics here on my thread.

[Minuteman]

You said, that you already found the centurion section. So take a look at the succesfull submissions ( those got a number) and use the photos as a reference for your photographer. Somewhere there was also a thread about "perfect" submission photos.

[TK 69169[TK]]

Didn't realize the number = approved. That's a big help. Thanks.