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Posted

Here's my progress from Saturday's session...

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Back of the shin with velcro attachment

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Shoulders and biceps

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Complete Arms

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Right Thigh - Rivetted (I loved using the rivetter)

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Rivetted holster to belt (belt by TKittel and Holster by Darman)

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We had the knee plate glued, but it was getting in the way of the thigh so we're going to have to rework it.Ā I wentĀ with industrial strength velcro for internal strapping.Ā  I know snaps are much more popular - I'm just finding vecro easier to work with and adjust.Ā  Plus will be easier to repair during a troop.

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Here's an overall pic

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My advisor's comments were as follows

1.Ā Bring chest down over the ab section

2. Lower calves and bring thighs down - I'm hoping this helps with the knee plate issue

3. Switch my shoulder bells

4. Adjust the butt plate - we are having a hard time curving this to fit - we'll be trying some heat

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Evilboy just shipped the TD clips today, once they come in I'm down to completeing the belt and on to the lid.

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Posted

2 more quick questions. I hope to get a good chunk done on Sunday.

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1. I haven't seen many builds for the 3 piece helmet. Does anyone have any pics? I'd like to see the back piece attached to the dome specifically.

The only other kit these days that comes with a 3 part helmet that I know of is rt-mod and they arrive pre assembled. You and the handful of NE armor builds are breaking new ground. In fact FISD is hoping that the NE folks will educate us on how the 3 part helmet goes together. I'm still curious how big it is compared to other helmets.

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2. Do I have to use snaps and elastic on the interior of the torso parts? Can I possibly use industrial velcro to hold everything together. My reasoning being that velcro will give me more room for adjustments for fitting. Plus it will be easier to fix velcro during a troop if necesarry.

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Thanks to everyone for the help so far.

You can strap up your armor however you like but I wouldn't recommend Velcro. It wears out after repeated use and is prone to coming apart while trooping. If you only intend to troop a few times a year and keep your armor on a mannequin Velcro may be fine. But if you want to get out there and use your white plastic regularly I highly suggest snaps, elastic, and snap plates.

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Aloha,

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-Eric

Posted

If this is your first set o armor,, go with velcro for a short while...get a feel of the armor, how it sits on you what it does when you move, then make your adjustments,,once you feel you got it.....replace it with what eric said

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

TD glued and clips from evilboy attached

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Back glued to dome (left side)

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and right side - as you can see weĀ over trimmed here.Ā 

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Left side rivetted

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Ok, we glued some plastic to the inside - I know this isn't pretty now, butĀ once we shape and attach the ears, we'll be able to hide the whole thing hopefully.Ā  TupperwareTK is currently checking to see if he can get me just the back piece in case we can't make it work.Ā  I am open to suggestions if anyone has any.

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Need a few touchups after paint cures, but not bad at all (french blue testors 2715 and testor grey 1138)

Tried one freehand

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then decided to build a painters tape template

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finished pending touchups

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Also finished the belt and painting the hovi tips (pictures to follow)

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Hopefully someone else can learn from our helmet trimming mistake.Ā 

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Still feels like we're far from done.Ā  Probably won't get on it for at least a week.

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I remember seeing some pictures of some black padding someone added to the inside of their helmet.Ā  It looked like it would be more comfortable than the hard hat liner.Ā  If anyone has any info on that method, please post.

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Thanks,

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Posted

David,

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Do a google or amazon search for tactical helmet padding orĀ MICH pads. Or you could go to a sporting goods store and either buy pads for a baseball helmet.... but some folks buy a cheap kids baseball helmet and rip out the pads.Ā 

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-Eric

Posted

I remember seeing some pictures of some black padding someone added to the inside of their helmet.Ā  It looked like it would be more comfortable than the hard hat liner.Ā  If anyone has any info on that method, please post.

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I will be trying out those MICH pads as well. I'll post up once I have them.

Posted

Hi David,

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How did you find putting the forearms togeather ? Because mine were a total slave Leia to get right. the 4 sectons look like them came from 4 different makers & i spent a heap of time with the wife's hairdryer getting the shape around the wrist's right.

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Andrew.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

So I wound up getting a replacement back piece of the helmet. Took the helmet apart and re attached the new piece. Does anyone have any pictures of an NE helmet from the side before and after the ears are attached? I'm trying to figure out how to trim the sides of the back piece. Right now we have it trimmed straight down, but I'm sure it needs to be trimmed at some sort of angle. There doesn't seem to be enough room for the tube stripes.

Posted

Does anyone have any pictures of an NE helmet from the side before and after the ears are attached? I'm trying to figure out how to trim the sides of the back piece. Right now we have it trimmed straight down, but I'm sure it needs to be trimmed at some sort of angle. There doesn't seem to be enough room for the tube stripes.

Here you go:

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More pics here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23895-ows-ne-build-anh-stunt/page-3

Posted

Nice looking bucket only problem is you have added the tube stripes too low down, they should be a pencil width from the cheek, this may pass basic but not EIB and Centurion

Posted

Hot glued in the green lenses

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Installed the mic tips

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Tomorrow night we tackle the ears and painting of the tubestripes and the grey areas.Ā  Wish me luck!!

Posted

Notching of the face plate to fit the dome

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Did 2 rivets on the side to help bring the face plate in

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Then on to the #%#@$^ ears.Ā  We spent over an hour shaping and measuring the left ear.

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Then attataching it...I wanted to get it up to the brow trim and perfectly flush, but there was just no way to do that with this NE kit.Ā  I'm still very happy with how it turned out.Ā 

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We started trimming the second ear which was going much quicker - but we ran out of time.Ā  Won't be able to get back on it until next Tuesday.Ā  Should be able to attach the ear and paint the base layers of the paint.

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We did miscut the trim for the bottom of the neck - I'm hoping to go into a local store and pick up another piece.Ā  If anyone knows what to specifically ask for (36" long rubber S-Trim??), or where to go to get it, please post.Ā  Thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Helmet hand painting - we need to do a few more vents, and some touch ups.Ā  Also have to wait for a new rubber seal for the bottom of the helmet because we miscut it.Ā  Then we should be ready for submission.

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Before

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Teeth

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Grey on the left

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Grey on the back

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Grey on the right

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Vocoder

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Tube stripe template

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Tube stripes on the right

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Tube stripes on the left dripped, we're going to try to clean up with a little paint thinner - May try to remove them all and repaint

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Front view

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Posted

OK just a couple of things, with your armor fit upĀ looks like you're right bicep needs to come up, thighs could come up a bit too, foam behind your shin will stop it from rotating, also elastic from you're boot to the shin can help them from coming up.

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Now helmet, the tube stripes look a bit large in the photos also not enough of them, could just be the photo, also what blue did you use. There is a tip about painting tube stripes on the forum, first paint white then if they bleed it will only be white underneath, then paint blue on top and the blue won't bleed through. Is the black on the vocoder satin black, that is more acceptable. The cap looks a little slanted you may want to look at fixing this but you could play with the rubber trim and get away with it. The grey on the end of you're teeth need more of a point to them. Just watch the outside of your painting, the straighter the lines the better.

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Don't panic its only a few tweaks and you will get there, good luck with the rest of the build :D

Posted (edited)

Ouch, I guess I'm much further away than I thought. Thanks for the input. I used testers 1747 for the black, and testers 2715 for the blue (same color as the buttons on the ab plate). There are 11 stripes, per the costume reference library on this site, it says 9-16 per side are acceptable (is that not true?). The cap does straighten out when we add the rubber trim. Not really sure what you mean by "the teeth need more of a point to them".

Edited by Uriarte69
Posted

Here's the tip on bleed through http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23204-tip-on-tube-stripe-painting-with-no-bleed-through/page-2?hl=%2Btube+%2Bstripe#entry294139

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Tube stripe color just looked really dark in the photo's.

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The last teeth should be pointed at the end on either side, but for basic approval you are fine.

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