Weathering tips

[DarthBrute[TK]]

I am just wondering some of the methods you used for weathering.

 

Effect - Process

 

I am closing up on the trimming and will soon begin the weathering/painting process before I put everything together.

[gazmosis[501st]]

Are you doing a TD??

[bjsavage7[TK]]

I just go troop in my TK. Florida does enough weathing without any effort on my part.

[Kessel Run[TK]]

Some people use Woodland Scenics pigments usualy use Raw Umber #C1221, and Burnt Umber #C1222. One of the UKG guys did a nice tutorial over on MEPD. hope that helps some.

[pattrooper]

i used acrylic paints, easily removed if you are not happy .

[DarthBrute[TK]]

No I am doing weathering for the TKC.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

If you apply thin coats you can use steel wool or sandpaper and just run it across the painted surface a few times.

[DarthBrute[TK]]

Come on guys! I am trying for another how to stickie for this forum. For me and other future TKCs.

 

Blaster marks, slashes, scratches, dents, dirty, etc. Only one so far! Lets get some more!

[Thalizar[TK]]

When it came to weathering my TKC I used several techniques. For the general dirty look I watered down black acrylic paint to about the consistancy of milk, same as you would for using in an airbrush for those of you that use airbrushes you would know the consistancey. I then used an apply and wipe tecnique. But I'm getting ahead of myself. First I used some sand paper and roughed up areas on the armor that I wanted scatches to be more prevailent, these scatches will realy show when you apply the watered down paint. I would also lightly hit my blue areas the same way. But what I did mostly with the blue painted areas was use a Xacto knife and add the nicks and scratches. For dents I just lightly heated up the intended area I wanted to add the dent with a heat gun, then used an object with a rounded end and gently pushed the end into the heated area to make the indent. I used a screw driver that had handle with a nice rounded end that worked great. After the dent was applied I then drybrushed the dent and surrounding area to simulate a blaster hit. Now back to the apply and wipe tecnique, I used a sponge to apply the watered down paint and then wiped the paint back up with a cloth, being sure to not wipe all of the paint up. very important when doing this make it look natural, don't wipe all in one direction but use a dabbing motion or circular motion. If you wipe in one direction it will just make your armor look streaky. I would suggest practicing on some spare ABS or the inside of your armor to get the look your going for. Acrylic paints are a water based paint, so it's easy to work with and no fumes so you can do it inside. When the paint dries it will stay on, even when my armor got wet or I'm cleaning it I've never had a problem with my weathering rubbing off.

 

Hope this helps,

Dan

[DarthBrute[TK]]

Hey thanks Dan! I never thought about watering down some paint. That helps a lot!

[Turrican]

I use 1000er sand paper on the areas which i want to age a bit.

Than rub a old newspaper over this parts.

 

If i want a oil or dirt effect, i use a pritt pencil on this parts and rub the newspaper over there.

[DarthChridan[TK]]

I use 1000er sand paper on the areas which i want to age a bit.

Than rub a old newspaper over this parts.

 

If i want a oil or dirt effect, i use a pritt pencil on this parts and rub the newspaper over there.

Yap...I agree...this is a good tip to achieve this effect

[Elumusic[TK]]

I know this is old....but here goes.  There are many ways to achieve this, but weathering on a TK Commander should be more about soot and blaster marks.  Not like weathering on a Sandtrooper.  My technique is two fold.  I applied a clear coat of glossy Lacquer to the armor.  The lacquer paint helps the removal of the enamel if there is a mistake.  Lacquer is impervious to mineral spirits when dry.  So First paint on the colored accents (Blue enamel) and then let it dry a day and then take some 400 grit sandpaper to all the edges and bring them down to the white armor.  This gives probable wear to the armor.  Then I take a butter knife or screwdriver and I add scratches.  Scratches would occur in groups and depending on the situation there may be numerous scratches that are in the same direction all over certain portions of the armor, such as the thighs or calves.  There would also be incidental rubs and scratching.  Then I went back and made a mixture of Embrol Grey and black enamel.  I added some mineral spirits to thin it down.  Then I took a brush in the thinned down paint to all the folds and creases and joints of the armor.  This is also where probable gathering of dirt and soot would occur.  Thin strokes.  Very important and then I let it dry for a second or two and then I use my finger to dab the paint and blend it so there are no hard edges in the strokes.  Whatever is left on my finger gets smeared onto the armor.  

 

The biggest thing to look at are the creases, joints and folds.  creases and joints get a dark edge with feathered edges and the folds of the armor and hard return areas such as the chest and back get a good rub down to make these areas darker.  If you don't like it, the mineral spirits will take it completely off and you can try again.

 

 

Edited October 9, 2015 by Elumusic