How To - HASBRO Doopy Doos E-11 Mod

[mr0072003[501st]]

Hi all another step by step of how I did my build of my HASBRO E-11 Doopy Doos mod as promised that I would like to add to the site.

Thanks to all the other HASBRO Build threads on the FISD site as each one was helpful in differnt ways. I thought it would be nice to gather all the info from all those threads

and make my own HOw to Build Thread. I will show as much as I can errors and all.

 

Part 1 - This part will focus primarly on how to take the gun apart.

 

Things you will need.

1. Hasbro E-11 toy Gun

2. Small Head Flat head screw Driver

3. Phillips Head Screw Driver

4. Exacto Knife

 

So lets get started.

 

I ordered my E-11 Blaster from E-Bay for $8 Buy it now and $8 shipping a Total of $16. It was a Star Tours Version

which is the same as the Other HASRBO E-11 but in Black and White tone, not the Orange and White. Here is the pic

of the balster I purchased.

 

Step one.

First thing we need to do is to remove all the screws from the gun, with a Phillips Head Screw Driver.

 

There will be a total of 11 Screws. 2 of them will be smaller than the rest. They are from the Tip of the gun (Site and Bottom portion of the barrell).

 

Step 2

You may notice that the gun will not open even with all the screws out. Well thats becuase the next

thing that had to be done to get this open, was to pry my Scope Cap off. While researching this is the part many

had issues with and did not know how it was done. Many posted how they did it, but did not show. So here is how

I was able to pry my Scope Cap off.

Work it all the way around very slowly but firmly. Dont go to hard, or else cracking and or breakage could occure.

AS you can see in the pic below, there was some minor cracking. (Dont worry we can fix this later.)

Once you work it all around you should be able to get it off like so.

Step 3 (Optional)

I did the same process to the Cap in the front of the scope. If doing the Hasbro Doopy Doos mod, this part just gets cut off

but I was not sure at the time, as I had not got my kit when I started to pry apart, so I did it be safe. I am showing

this step just so other can see.

Step 4

Well now that we have the Screws off, and have removed the caps from the scope. We need to cut off the front portion

of the gun (the orange tip) also. NOW I know that we are to remove the entire front portion, but again I was afraid to

as I did not have my DOOPY Kit at the time, so I only cut off the Orang tip.

Here is what I cut off. You can see I tried to pry the orange tip (SO I would not have to cut) but I decided to hack it

off, as I was pretty confident at this point that it needs to get cut off to add the doopys barrel tip.

Here it is after I decided to just cut it off.

Step 5

This is the part that most people dont even mention (Some do) but not all, and thought I should share this experience.

What needs to be done after the all the parts that are holding the gun together is to pry the the glued seem of the

gun apart. This is where my troubles started.

So I decided to go at it with the same small Flat head screw driver, and quickly realized that this was damaging the

gun quickly as seen here.

So change of plans, and I went at it with an Exacto Knife.

Did this all the way down the bottom portion of the barrell

Like so

So now you can start to pry the gun apart, but you may notice that the top fin is also glued together and

may start to break a bit. (Dont worry if it happens, we will fix later) So be careful (also be careful when using the exacto knife, as you can see in the 1st pic below

I cut myself pretty bad)

Now pry the back part of the gun, You should not have to use the exacto here, but all cases are differnt.

You can see that it comes apart like so!

After all that the gun should open up like so.

[mr0072003[501st]]

Part 2 - This part will focus on the Detailing and prepping of your HASBRO E-11 TOY GUN too look more realistic

to the actuall E-11 blaster.

 

Things you will need.

1. Hasbro E-11 toy Gun

2. Dremel with Cutting Blade, grinder and Cutting Bit

3. Small Files

4. 400 Grit Sand Paper (or close to that)

 

Step 1 (continued from my first post)

Not that the guns is all apart, we can focus on the details of the gun. The first thing that I did was to sand off

all the lettering from the gun.

Keep sanding until its all gone.

Step 2

Next thing to do, to add some realisim to the gun, is to dremel out the scope rail. The Hasbro version has the rail filled in.

So following many others ideas, I decided this was easy enough to do (especially with it apart).

So here is what I did (to both sides)

Now that both sides are cut out, you will notice that cuts are pretty rough and jagged.

So I got a small file kit

 

 

and started to file down all the edges so it could be nice and even and smooth. Repeat to both sides.

Try and put the gun together (dont screw in, just fit it) so you can see if there are any other spots that need filing.

Step 3

NOw that the rail is cut out and looking good, now its time to grind off the 7th fin, as the real E-11 had only 6 fins

and not 7. So to try and get it closer to the real thing and if your shooting for EIB, this is the next step. So

using your dremel swap out the cutter tool with the grinder tool. And begin to grind off the fins like so.

 

Step 4

Now that the 7th fin is grinded off, we will need to add HOLES in its place, this is how the E-11 looked like.

So using a refernce pic as to where the holes should line up, I was able to print it out and tape it to the gun.

Like so. I used a light to help me place it better. You can see it lines up nicely. Note that this is done to only one

side of the gun. (use pic as refernce as to which side to use)

I got the templates from this thread.

http://www.whitearmo...er/page__st__80

and the best Build Thread out there that I saw was this one. But its a FISD HOW tow and thought I would post one specifically for us.

http://www.whitearmo...her-hasbro-mod/

Once your template is in place, we can begin to start drilling.

As first I made pilot holes using my dremel with a cuttng bit. (small)

Next you can get the Drill Bit and begin to cut ( AS of this writting I do not know what size this bit is) I was just lucky enough to have it in

my junk drawer and it was a prefect fit to the holes that were already there.

 

 

When you are done it should like this. BUT without the first HOLE (closest to the barrel) its an extra hole that I should not have added. (again dont worry we will fix this in the next part)

 

Step 5

Now that our holes are complete, lets work on the last little detail. The Trigger, this was one I was on the fence on, but

it seemed to easy to pass up, especially with the gun apart.

SO using some refernce pics, I was able to draw up a sketch using a pen.

Then I started to cut at it with the Dremel and Cutting blad. Here is how it ended up.

Used the file to clean up the edges.

Thats it for part 2. Next part will be the prepping and cleaning up of any mess ups that I did.

[mr0072003[501st]]

Part 3 - Detailing and Fixing our Errors

 

Things You will need

1 - Dremel with Cutting Blade

2 - BONDO Glazing and Spot Putty

3 - 800 - 400 Sand Paper (You can go even to 1000 to really smooth it out, I was too impatient)

 

 

Step - 1

OK Next thing that had to be done was to cut off the rest of the barrel tip of the gun. Be careful here as you do not want to cut off the wires that connect to the light. Just pull the wires out of the little groves that are holding them in place and get them out of the way.

 

Pull them out of thw way all the way back. You can use a screw Driver to remove the glue that is holding the wires in place. This is an option but it helps not put stress on the wires.

 

Here it is after you cut it. I used my Dremel with cutting blade.

 

Step 2 -

 

Next thing we want to do is to BE CAREFUL with all of the Electronics of your blaster. I did a quick check of my trigger, lights and sounds just to make sure that the gun was still working and thats when my build came to a crashing halt. The gun was no longer making lights and sounds. I checked everything and after 30min of inspecting I realized that when prying my gun open earlier in the build process, the Chip board came a little loose. I noticed that early in the process and I just placed it back in its slot and moved one. Here is the Chip in the slot

 

 

Well now that the gun was no longer working I looked at the board closely and reaized that the board was chiped on the corner.

 

With out re-explaining everything I was able to get some help from the FISD boards and got one of the master minds behind the ADURINO Blaster builds from Italy to help me out. He told me to solder a wire from point a to point b. He even was nice enought to post a pics with a drawings on it. Here it is.

 

 

 

For all the fun details here is the link to the thread on the FISD site.

http://www.whitearmo...buy-replacment/

But I was able to get a wire from an cell phone charger and have a buddy of mine solder the wire to the points listed above (the blue line). And it was working again. I was just so excited to get it working again that I totally forgot to take a picture of it all fixed up. But I did exactly what I was told to do and it worked. Now I was able move on!

 

Step 3 -

 

Now it's time to fix all the cracking and fill in all the screw holes with some of the BONDO GLAZE and SPOT Putty . You can get the stuff at OSH Hardware or Auto Parts store. Im sure even Home Depot or LOWES has it.

 

You will need a spreading stick ( I used a peice of ABS plastic strip) and begin to start to fill in the holes with the putty. Also dont forget to do any seems that you do not want visable anymore.

 

You can see in the next pic where I Filled in my extra hole. I used a bit of Hot Glue in the back and let harden and used it a base for the putty to harden on to. If I had not done that the putty would have just fallen through. If your really particular about lines and stuff take your time on this part, It will take a few more coats of putty and sanding before you get a nice even look. Again I rushed it and did an ok job.

 

 

 

 

Remember that Fin that cracked on us. Now use the putty and fill in the cracks. I ran my fiongers and gave it the look you see below and let it harden before I sanded it down to look even.

 

Fill in the screw holes good.

 

 

 

Let all that stuff harden for a day.

 

Step 4 - Now we can sand and re-putty if we have to or want to!

 

Starting with the 450 sand paper for any hard and thick hard part and moving QUICKLY to the 800 paper and higer for fine sanding, you want to get you parts nice and smooth. You will notice that this stuff grinds down quickly so be carefull.

Here are some shoots of my sanding work. It was not the best and I could have gone more but was to excited about moving foward. So my advice "Be Patient"!

You may not want to do the handles (as seen in the pic below) as it takes away from the detail of the handle. In retrospect I would have left these holes alone.

 

Do not fill in the holes for your Battery Compartment!

 

At this point go over your gun with Sand paper and smooth it out to your likeing as the next part will be the Doopy Doos add ons. Yippy!

[mr0072003[501st]]

Part 4 - Doopy Doos KIT ADD ON - Painting

Things you will need

1 - Doopy Doos Kit

2 - E-6000 Glue

3 - Primer Grey, Silver (optional), Bronze (optional). Black (Flat or Semi Gloss) Its your preference for the

shade of black or check with your Garrison for specifics.

4 - String

5- Dremel with Cutting Bit/ Grinding Tool/Grinding BIT

6 - Rubber Bands / Painters Tape

7- 14 Gauge Black Wire

8 - Crazy Glue

 

Step 1 -

OK now that your Gun is ready for the DOOPY DOOS kit, There is one optional thing you can do. One of things I read

in my research on the Doopys Hasbro build, as the sounds can get drowned out because the Counter covers some of the holes

that allow the sounds from the outside to come out. So I thought this was something I could to take a swing at.

Sadly I did not take more pictures, but you can see what I did.

What I did was to dril out holes near the speaker with a Dremel cutting bit. These were solidly filled in. WIth them drilled out, it's will allow for better and louder blaster sounds. I used a file to clean up the holes I made to even out the edges. (sorry no pics of that but later pics will show this)

 

Step 2 -

Now it's time to get your Doopys Kit checked out and ready for glueing.

Something that I did not see in other builds was that I had lots of return edges left on my fins. I broke some of extra peices off, but had to use a Dremel with Grinder bit to clean it up.

 

Next was to begin useing your E-6000 glue and begin to glue the peices together. It's pretty Self explanatory, but

check out some other build threads (many out there) that go through that process. For now you will have to settle for

pictures of my Doopys kit all glued together using Painters tape to hold certain parts down while the glue Hardened.

One of things I noticed was that the under sling was not aligning correctly. I tried to dremel out some of the screw post on the bottom of the barrel and it seemed to work. But its not perfect.

With everything all glued together and taped up, let it settle over night. Please be careful that your tape/Rubber Bands do not shift any of your parts.

I had not noticed this and one of my fines was slightly shifted because the rubber band had shifted it up . I decided to leave it as is, but do it right the first time

and you shall be fine.

 

Step 3 -

Now that the Doopys Kit is glued on, and any fixes or shift in parts are fixed (if any), now we can begin to start to

Paint. First find a good area to paint that is free flowing with air. Also lets get some string and tie it up to something so that you can paint it nicely. Once you do this you can start with a coat or 2 of the Grey Primer. Don't go to heavy, as you do not want to lose details on your gun. You still have more layers of paint to go.

Next was to add a coat of Silver. This is an option as many like to have a weathered look and having a coat a silver

underneath the black (which we have not painted yet) and then you can later lightly sand it to give it the weathered look.

NOw that the silver is added. You can add some Bronze to only your Scope part. I did do this part, but was not happy with it, and did not even take a pic. Again this is an options if you want to sand down to give it a weahtered look and want to expose a little of the Bronze to give it an authentic look.

 

Once you are done with all the painting of the Silver and Bronze, we can now begin to add the Black paint. Ok so here is where I got a little confused. I started with a FLAT Black, using Primer Flat Black Spray Paint

 

OK So I decided to go with the Semi Gloss paint, as my wife put it "It will look dumb if your Gun is Dull while you are shiny Black." So you know the Saying "Happy Wife = Happy Life".

 

Sadly I had painted first with flat black and then moved to the Smei Gloss. I have no pictures of that process. I have pics of the gun painted, but not from the jump, but you get the point.

 

Step 5 - Lets add the wires to our Power Cylinders. Since the only reference pics of this that was in ANH, is so small and you really dont get a good reference. So after much researching I was able to come up with what I think these wires should go. Some people call it Greebies

 

First thing I did was to determine where to make the holes for my 14 Guage wire would fit. So after much research I wipped out my old dremel with Grinding BIT.

So on the MAG Counter there are 3 like prongs that stick out. Well I dremeled out the two outer ones using a small Grinder bit.

 

Now with the holes drilled out I was able to see of the 14guage wire would fit.

 

It did. Note that all you need to do with the Black 14 Guage Electrical wire, is wrap it around a Pencil and it will coil around and stay that way holding its form. Repeat for the other side.

 

Next was to drill holes on MAG portions of the Cylinders. This was where most reference pics were non existant, so again I just went for where most pics showed it went. I used each end of the cylinders on the MAG and drilled a hole at the tip like so

 

Now with the holes drilled in both sides and wires coiled. We can add Crazy Glue to the end of the wires and stuff them in the holes.

[mr0072003[501st]]

Part 5 - Detailing Metal chamber

 

Things you will need

1 - Silver Elmers Paint Pen (Fine gauge)

2 - Painters Tape

 

So this will be the last detail, to add. We need to paint the Chamber Silver. As its black right now.

 

So this will be the last detail, to add. We need to paint the Chamber Silver. As its black right now.

Step 1 - Tape of the chamber with Painters Tape as we do not want to get paint all over the place and keep our lines straight

 

 

Now begin to paint with the pen like so

 

Let the paint Dry and remove the tape and you should end up like this.

 

Thats it your done.

 

 

Thats it Folks your Done. Hope this helps out other out there.

[zebrabuse]

I like the extra work carving out the rail. Nice work!

[WhiteNight[TK]]

I like your work quite alot.

 

The rail modding is especially nice!

 

Still there are a few things to adress:

 

The sights above the muzzle really should have gotten a cut and be filed out.

Also in the muzzle there is some white colour showing. Is this intentional?

The silver bolt on the ejection port on the E11 has a diagonal shape on it. You could either add some bent plastic card or just paint it on.

You could add some round transparent plastic (cut from a plastic bottle) to the scope to give it a glass effect.

 

Sp, please keep up the good work! It's worth it.

[Kessel Run[TK]]

well done!

[FunkyTrigger[TK]]

Nice detailed tutorial mate!

Well done

[mr0072003[501st]]

I like your work quite alot.

 

The rail modding is especially nice!

 

Still there are a few things to adress:

 

The sights above the muzzle really should have gotten a cut and be filed out.

Also in the muzzle there is some white colour showing. Is this intentional?

The silver bolt on the ejection port on the E11 has a diagonal shape on it. You could either add some bent plastic card or just paint it on.

You could add some round transparent plastic (cut from a plastic bottle) to the scope to give it a glass effect.

 

Sp, please keep up the good work! It's worth it.

Thanks White NIght. Yea the White in the muzzle is me just being to scared to get in there andaccidentlly paint the Red Bulb. I covered it with tape, when painting (something I should have mentioned in the TUT), but it was too much and not all the black got in there. I may fix later.

 

as for the Chamber, I new there was a bit more to detail. I think I will look at others guns while trooping and update from there. BUT I really like the idea of using plastic to give it a shine effect.

 

The Site. has part of the Screw post holding the gun together and if I did file off, would have took a little more work to stay together. (im Lazy) For now I will live with it. Thanks for the compliments. just trying to give back, and Altogh I may never qualify as a contributier as I am not a TK (im going TX) I still think its something i should share with the group that has shared back soo much.

Edited January 21, 2013 by mr0072003

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good, you could have made it the same length as a sterling by cutting of the front barrel and replacing with PVC pipe, then drilled the holes and used T track. Could then have added some hi-bright led's inside, you get a great glow through the gaps between the holes and T tracks. Also a nice mod is add a cocking handle and cut the slot, there's just enough room inside to fit a spring. Nice work

Edited January 21, 2013 by gmrhodes13

[ironranger88]

Any way you can update your pictures using Flikr or other? I can't see your pics cause of the photo bucket crap... Thank You