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Posted (edited)

I ordered a ready-to-wear/modify kit from AuthenticProps. It's had it's challenges, far more than I could have imagined. Feel free to learn or :popcorn:

 

 

This shopping list to start is mainly for me at the moment. If you have sources or comments on the list, please let me know!

 

I'll be updating this thread with photos and progress.

 

---------------------------

ACQUIRED:

 

Gear / Hardware

Completed: Hyperfirm E-11 (TK-6768 Lewis)

Completed: TK boots (TKboots.com - can't say enough good things about the transaction, price and comfortableness of the boots)

Completed: Undersuit compression gear (EastBay.com)

Completed: Dave M decals (TrooperBay.com)

Completed: E-11 Blaster D-Ring (TrooperBay.com)

Completed: Bushnell Powerview 8x21 Binocular (Amazon.com - E-11 scope mod)

Completed: Neckseal (TK-9356 Bobby)

Completed: Frown screen (Trooperbay)

Completed: Drop box backs (TK-0812 Kevin)

Completed: Canvas belt (TrooperBay.com)

Completed: ANH Holster (TK-9356 Bobby)

Completed: Rubber screen accurate gloves (TrooperBay.com)

Completed: Rubber hand guards - white (Trooperbay.com)

Completed: Sport Elastic, 1-1/4″ x 1 yd, White (TrooperBay.com - for drop boxes)

Completed: Helmet fans X2 with battery holders/wiring (AllElectronics.com)

Completed: Accurate brackets for torso (Mr. No Stripes - Darren)

Completed: Heavy Waistband Elastic, 1-1/2" x 1-1/4 yds, Black (TrooperBay.com - biceps to forearms, kidney to butt snaps)

Completed: Thigh garter (TK-1576 VaderDave)

Completed: 1" clips for TD (TK-2392 Vern)

Completed: Cap/Split rivets (TK-8079 Sean)

- Amico D94-S Counter (Amazon.com - E-11 counter mod, after 501st approval w/TK#)

- Aker 1506 (TK-6294 Jim)

- iComm from (TK-6294 Jim)

Tested, not using: Rubber screen accurate gloves (AuthenticProps)

Tested, not using: Holster (AuthenticProps.com w/modification hardware/strips from TK-2392 Vern)

Tested, not using: Ab buttons (TK-1576 VaderDave)

Tested, not using: Memorex wireless mic setup (TK-6294 Jim)

 

Tools / Misc

- 40 Heavy Duty Snaps with Tool (TrooperBay.com)

- N52 Rare Earth Magnets (TrooperBay.com - destroyed 4 so far)

- 4 Armor clamps (TrooperBay.com - destroyed 1 so far)

- 20 Heavy duty muslin clamps (Amazon.com)

- E6000 (Amazon.com)

- Tamiya 74005 Curved Scissors 5-1/2 (Amazon.com)

- Humbrol Gloss Black Paint #21 (Amazon.com)

- Humbrol Gloss White Paint #22 (Amazon.com)

- Dremel

- 3M masking tape

- Sand paper

- Detail brushes

- Exacto knife

- 18" Steel straight edge (Amazon.com)

- Novus polish (Amazon.com)

- Zap-A-Gap / Zip Kicker (TrooperBay.com)

- 15' 2" Industrial Strength White Velcro (Amazon.com)

- Accurate nickel split rivets and washers (TrooperBay.com)

- 105 piece hand riveter set (TrooperBay.com)

- Soft Stretch Elastic, 1/4″ x 3 yds, White (TrooperBay.com - shoulder strap band)

- Heat gun (Amazon.com)

- Heat iron (Amazon.com)

 

---------------------------

ORDERED / WAITING FOR:

 

Gear / Hardware

- Stanley 37" Mobile Job Box

Edited by 8BitBry
Posted

Ah seems like a life time ago I started my pre build shop, then the long wait for the armor to arrive, only blaster builds kept me sane. Good luck will be awaiting for the start of your build

Posted

Since I'm waiting on my armor I thought I'd start out small and dig into the E-11 Hyperfirm.

These are small and simple updates to start off but I'm hoping it might be useful for other noobs out there like me.

 

D-Ring

 

img0496ku.jpg

I started out with the D-ring and cut it in half.

 

img0497ke.jpg

Ahhh first drill! Drilled a hole using the dremel and tried fitting it through.

 

img0498ct.jpg

Realized I needed to cut a few more mm off the ring to get it to fit inside.

 

img0499ah.jpg

Worked it in there, bent it back with 2 pairs of needle-nose pliers and done. Later smoothed out the grip marks with a dremel.

(I recommend padding the plier grips with something like a low profile double-sided padding tape to avoid biting the metal - unless you want more of a "worn" or weathered look.)

 

img0500qt.jpg

Painted it black with the Humbrol black gloss paint I had available. Was worried about the glossy factor but I don't think it came out too bad.

Posted (edited)

Thanks, Glen!

 

My first cutting for parts, I love taking stuff apart.

I wanted a decent looking scope that looks somewhat realistic - which is ironic since I realize the detail of the hyperfirm is like "hey dude there's a seam, that's not real" but this was fun.

 

Hyperfirm Scope Modification

 

img0502g.jpg

I used a Bushnell Powerview 8x21 Binocular for the lenses. Cracked it open (seemingly more easy than expected) and got both ends of lenses.

 

img0504fy.jpg

The larger lens fits perfectly but I had to shave down the diameter of the smaller lens to fit it at the front end of the scope. Here's the after / before comparison of how much I needed to shave. Unlike the D-ring, I used double-sided padding tape on the teeth of the pliers to grip the lens to avoid cracking or scratching while working a 180° angle with the dremel on each side.

Wear safety gloves and glasses for this - maybe a mask or something too if you want to be certain not to inhale dust particles or fumes from the cut. Took me a few passes and about 10 min to cut and size correctly.

 

img0524ty.jpg

I cut into the scope fairly deep (about 2mm) with a dremel drill bit and smoothed the area with a sanding bit. Smoothed and painted the lens rim black to hide the areas where I nicked it with the drill.

 

img0526qs.jpg

Same thing with the front scope. I wanted at least .3 - .5mm of recess for each lens.

Edited by 8BitBry
Posted

Nice work on the scope mod. I'm tempted to try that with mine now.

 

I think Trooperbay has the S trim and neckseal. I picked up frown mesh at the Train Shack hobby shop on Hollywood way. Cut down spray painted black and double layered in with E-6000. I picked up my Aker on Amazon. Ingrid has squirrel fans and sources them locally if she's out. I'm still hunting for a new Stanley bin myself.

 

As soon as that armor arrives you're going to have your hands full! You're looking very organized though and I'm sure you'll be fine! :duim:

Posted

Nice mods man....keep up the good work..... AP is a great kit to work with.

Posted

Oh and I'd second getting your TD clips from Jesse. I picked up a full replacement one from him and it's great.

Posted

Oh and I'd second getting your TD clips from Jesse. I picked up a full replacement one from him and it's great.

 

I read that he stopped making them, anyone have another source?

Maybe if I send Jesse cookies it will sweeten the deal?

Posted (edited)

Thanks Reza and Troy!

 

img0547lw.jpg

Here's the lens fitted with a light coat of E6000 on the outer rim laying on top one of the TrooperBay decals.

 

img0536c.jpg

Front end of the scope. I like that it adds just a hint of realism close up for an otherwise prop-ish looking gun.

Edited by 8BitBry
Posted

Nice work there, well done :duim:

Posted

Nice work there, well done :duim:

 

Thanks Glen, love your blaster build for centurion.

Curious, what type/brand paint did you use for the black coat?

Posted

 

 

Thanks Glen, love your blaster build for centurion.

Curious, what type/brand paint did you use for the black coat?

Thanks, I use white night satin black spray then after weathering I use a satin clear coat to stop further weathering

Posted

Ahhh just got shipment info... stoked! Hopefully will be here before next weekend then the fitting begins!

Posted

Ahhh just got shipment info... stoked! Hopefully will be here before next weekend then the fitting begins!

Cross fingersgood-luck-smiley-emoticon.gif

Posted

there are two kinds of ready to wear options. basic, and trooper. mark does the basic style.

another builder makes the trooper version.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Oh man, please - whatever you do - do not order pre-assembled kits, especially AP kits. Learn from my mistake.

If you've made this mistake you can try what I've been doing or if you just want to sit back and :popcorn: that's cool too.

I thought having everything put together for me, ready to modify, it would make the process faster and easier where I might be able to make less mistakes. Turns out not knowing exactly what I was getting ended up hurting more with the knowledge I've gained from this wonderful whitearmor resource for what I ultimately want to do.

 

 

I got the boxes from AP the other day and was super stoked followed by a FML as I went through the already assembled parts.

 

I'm 5'11 and a filled out 200lbs, meaning I'm not a toothpick and not exactly flabby.

 

Anyways, I dived in and found that everything is velcroed and all the cover strips are 20mm. Mark also uses abs glue so the residue is pretty crazy. I carefully used a heat gun to remove the strips and separate the halves. Resized the arm strips to 15mm.

photo1pqd.jpg

 

I resized, cut undeeded ridges, sanded edges and residue, resized some more, rounded off the cover strip corners and glued them back on with zap-a-gap (I tried the accelerator and it's basically if you want something to hold instantly if you don't have the patience to wait 10 min).

phototet.jpg

 

Ended up getting a really nice snug fit for the biceps and forearms that's actually pretty comfortable.

photowdr.jpg

 

These were the easy modifications to make.

 

Other things to note on the pre-assembled build: neck trim is wrong (not "s trim"), the face plate was drilled slightly crooked in relation to the cap and ear tabs weren't aligned to my liking so I had to fix all that. I just installed the Trooperbay frown mesh and hard hat liner. As a result I had to pull apart the upgraded darker lenses, trim out a nose section and shave about 10mm off the top for the hard hat tab hooks I E6000'd to the inside of the bucket. Really happy with how that came out and fits awesome. Mike has a great instructional video on how to install it here:

 

 

photoewf.jpg

 

Painted ear trim and added rank bar paint. It looks like it came out a bit thick, I'm not sure. Weird shadow cast on the left bump. Opinions on the paint job are welcome.

photo1yuq.jpg

 

So in the few days I've had the kit that's what I've done so far. I'm on the shins right now: fixing, resizing and adjusting for 25mm cover strips.

 

I'm going to have to shim the thighs somehow too. I have to officially size them but it looks like I'll have about a 20mm gap at the top in the back. I'm sure I'll be posting a question or two hoping for answers.

Edited by 8BitBry
Posted

Yay you got your kit but shame you have to do so many mods, I have heard this with some other pre made kits. It is a shame but at least you have taken the right road to improving what you have. Just on what I can see the black lines on your ears just needs a little fix, just to get them a little thinner would look great. Some people have to use quite large cover strips on their thighs and they put these on the rear so they are not noticed as much. Keep up the good work I'm sure you will win in the end

Posted

Just on what I can see the black lines on your ears just needs a little fix, just to get them a little thinner would look great.

 

Thanks Glen. Should I just fine-sand the paint away and polish the little sanded area after? I haven't tried it yet and want to make sure it's the right way to go about fixing paint problems like this. Thanks!

Posted

Sometimes the paint is still soft so you could use a knife or toothpick to scrape some paint away. Sanding would be a last resort as you need to use a very fine paper before using polish, if the paper is too course it will leave scratches

Posted (edited)

Here's the separation with shim in place on the left shin. The top got a little wonky after the sniper plate pull. The original cover strip was fubar after the strip pull so I heated/straightened it and used zap-a-gap to make it a 20mm shim.

photovkvn.jpg

 

Cut some 25mm abs strips from Trooperbay for cover strips. Sanded a side of the strip and did my best to sand/get rid of the previously existing abs glue on the shin. I used E6000 for the new strips. They're a little different in color, more off-white.

photo1ug.jpg

 

I'm wondering if there is a good color match for AP armor? Haven't looked into it since I'm not concerned with that detail just yet.

 

Here's the new gap in the back. It was close to around 15mm at its largest - now it's just under a manageable 10mm.

photo3xlc.jpg

 

 

I was thinking about how to go about the hook and loop to get them on/off. I saw this link but I'm not too fond of the look: http://www.tonybarne....com/shims.html

 

I'm going for a matching 25mm cover strip on the back that's glued to the left side of the calf and hook/loop velcro on the opposite side.

 

We'll see how that goes. If it looks good I'll move onto the right shin.

Edited by 8BitBry
Posted

I had a bit of a gap in the centre of one of my shins, I applied some heat to both sides and then pushed the two pieces together which closed the gap, just hold until it cools. I used the velcro, was a nicer look for me, make sure you leave enough cover strip to glue the Velcro too, I glued 10mm of the cover strip to one side of the calve and left 15mm for the velcro. Just a tip, before applying glue rough up the surface with some course sandpaper, will give a better hold for the velcro

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