RS PVC Kit / ANH TK Stunt Build / Bulldog44

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

I've read some people used small dots of glue to keep the nuts in place so i guess that's an option.

I don't know if flexible washers would change anything about the tearing. Actually, for me the less return edge you will have, the more flexibility you will gain and thus the less cracks caused by the brackets. So shaving your return edges closer to the head of your bracket screws should be a good idea to avoid tearing.

[LeMaxim[TK]]

In my experience the bolts and nuts stay on. Haven't had any issues and haven't felt a need to tighten. I've done 12 troops so far.

I didn't want to permanent them with glue so that they would be detachable if I felt the need to do that.

Maybe I should double check the screws tonight though.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I've read some people used small dots of glue to keep the nuts in place so i guess that's an option.

I don't know if flexible washers would change anything about the tearing. Actually, for me the less return edge you will have, the more flexibility you will gain and thus the less cracks caused by the brackets. So shaving your return edges closer to the head of your bracket screws should be a good idea to avoid tearing.

Good advice.I think I am being over cautious and probably do more harm adding things that don't need to be there.

 

In my experience the bolts and nuts stay on. Haven't had any issues and haven't felt a need to tighten. I've done 12 troops so far.I didn't want to permanent them with glue so that they would be detachable if I felt the need to do that. Maybe I should double check the screws tonight though.

Glad to hear the nuts hold well. I was thinking maybe I can glob some E6000 on top and take it off if needed but probably that's overkill.

Hope I didn't worry you too much about your screws coming loose!

 

Back to cover strips -

I am gluing cover strips again for the biceps and no matter what I try, there are always some noticeable gaps along the seams. I used more magnets, roughened both surfaces for the glue to take hold but can't get a clean,gapless seam. Is there one kind of caulking or putty someone could recommend to fill those gaps in? Or is that not a good idea? Waiting 24-72 hours for E6000 to dry, only to find those darn gaps is driving me mad.

I can't link any photos at the moment from my ipad because the uploader requires flash9 but I will throw up the link once I get on a pc in the morning.

Edited May 8, 2014 by Bulldog44

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Sometimes, those gaps happen because of the use of inner stripes. In fact the inner strip is glued on the sides but the glue along the middle didn't hold, making difficult to lay the outer cover strip flat against the surface and creating gaps along the seams.

So perhaps making one last try with the e6000 but with having removed the inner strips before?

Edited May 8, 2014 by The5thHorseman

[Echo[TK]]

Hi Brian, sorry I haven't responded to your PM. I didn't ignore it, just didn't have an immediate answer about gluing techniques. I used E6000 on the cover strips and a PVC cement on the inner strip. The idea is that if the outer gets scratched or damaged, I could pull it off due to the E6000. But the cement on the inner strip would make it more durable for trooping. RS included a tube of the cement with my kit. Did they with yours? As for dealing with gaps, I did happen to glue the outer strip first, then once I felt it fit and looked correct, I glued the inner strip to seal the deal. So 5th's suggestion that the inner strip is affecting your outer strip may be possible.

[maxsteele[TK]]

I had recently commented on another thread about the gaps issue.  Here was my response:

 

I had similar issues with my forearms.  I didn't use an inside cover strip on them.  I did use inside strips for the shins and thighs, but still used this method for the outer strips on those pieces:

 

First, I got the cover strip in place after applying glue.  Next, I clamped each edge with either spring clamps or c-clamps, depending on how much pressure I needed to put in order to make the edges sit flush.  Next, I placed a series of tape strips perpendicular to the strip, first affixing half the tape on one side of the strip, and then cinching down the other half of the tape across the strip and down on the other side to the armor.  I did that down the entire length of the strip.  Finally, I put my 3/4 inch magnets at regular spacing down the whole length of the strip.

 

For my forearms where I just couldn't get the pressure, I did the clamps on the edges and then tape.  Then, I tied three pieces of elastic around the forearm at the ends and the middle, and pulled each one really tight and tied them off.  Then I put down the magnets.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Sometimes, those gaps happen because of the use of inner stripes. In fact the inner strip is glued on the sides but the glue along the middle didn't hold, making difficult to lay the outer cover strip flat against the surface and creating gaps along the seams.

So perhaps making one last try with the e6000 but with having removed the inner strips before?

I think I will give it another try as you recommend by removing the inner strip and the glue on the outer cover strip.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Hi Brian, sorry I haven't responded to your PM. I didn't ignore it, just didn't have an immediate answer about gluing techniques. I used E6000 on the cover strips and a PVC cement on the inner strip. The idea is that if the outer gets scratched or damaged, I could pull it off due to the E6000. But the cement on the inner strip would make it more durable for trooping. RS included a tube of the cement with my kit. Did they with yours? As for dealing with gaps, I did happen to glue the outer strip first, then once I felt it fit and looked correct, I glued the inner strip to seal the deal. So 5th's suggestion that the inner strip is affecting your outer strip may be possible.

Echo  no problem, I read on your sales thread about how buried in work you have been. Totally understand. Thanks for replying. Yes, RS did supply that plastic cement but I opted not to use it yet for fear of messing things up. Your idea using it on the inside sounds good and maybe once I get the outer strips the sit correctly, I will try that.Thanks.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I had recently commented on another thread about the gaps issue.  Here was my response:

 

I had similar issues with my forearms.  I didn't use an inside cover strip on them.  I did use inside strips for the shins and thighs, but still used this method for the outer strips on those pieces:

 

First, I got the cover strip in place after applying glue.  Next, I clamped each edge with either spring clamps or c-clamps, depending on how much pressure I needed to put in order to make the edges sit flush.  Next, I placed a series of tape strips perpendicular to the strip, first affixing half the tape on one side of the strip, and then cinching down the other half of the tape across the strip and down on the other side to the armor.  I did that down the entire length of the strip.  Finally, I put my 3/4 inch magnets at regular spacing down the whole length of the strip.

 

For my forearms where I just couldn't get the pressure, I did the clamps on the edges and then tape.  Then, I tied three pieces of elastic around the forearm at the ends and the middle, and pulled each one really tight and tied them off.  Then I put down the magnets.

Hi Ron. Thanks as well for your help. Very detailed method and sounds very effective.  I kind of did the same thing but I placed the magnets first then taped the strips down wherever possible. Probably that left too many areas with uneven pressure.

 

 Thanks to all the input from everyone, I will go at it again this weekend and hope to report better results. 

 

Here are the photos I wanted to post to show you the gaps along the cover strips. 

 

 

When all the tape was pulled away and magnets removed & clamps, the seam needed a little clean up but overall it looked evenly flush. Its when I start to pull away or rub away the excess E6000 along the seam the gaps become apparent. I am guessing some of the E6000 that sits under the cover strip is pulled away while removing the unwanted glue and leaves a void. I didn't want to use a cutter knife to score & trim away the glue.     

[maxsteele[TK]]

I did exactly that - I used an xacto knife and ran the blade down where the edge of the cover strip is.  You don't have to push hard enough to where it scores the ABS.  Just enough to cut through the excess e6000.  Then the extra comes away from it in a nice line.

 

Honestly, I think those 'gaps' are purely cosmetic.  No one's going to see them unless they're studying your armor as close as these pics.  If there were some structural gaps, I'd say you would need to take care of it.  But these?  I'd call it good and move on.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Thanks Ron. I am being too picky on minuscule details and certainly should keep the build moving forward instead halting progress. Might try to re-glue this part later after I get the other parts finished. Now that I have all the good advice everyone has offered, I should be able to tackle the rest of the gluing with better success. 

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Thoses gaps are... non-existent, i really thought they were bigger . And if you absolutely want to fill those gaps, why not using the cement RS provided, or ABS past? The issue is that these solutions can be kind of messy (unless you're very meticulous or have some polish), so by trying to fix a problem you could in fact create another one.

 

And don't be too worry using the x-acto trick to remove the e6000, if your hand is light enough you won't score the ABS, and even if, it shouldn't be noticeable.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I was trying to install a few of the strapping brackets on the back plate tonight and wondered how the screw heads should sit. Should they be flush to the surface of the return edge or do they naturally stick out a bit? The PVC is so thin on these parts I am worried to tighten them to a flushed position. Do I need to taper the holes or drill bigger holes to get the screw heads to sit flush?

Edited June 9, 2014 by Bulldog44

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Lesson learned: Don't glue inner strips before gluing on the cover strips! 

 

I glued on the cover strip for the right thigh finally and thought it was centered enough to limit how much of the rising ridge would be exposed on each side of the strip. Unfortunately there is about 3-4 mm too much exposed on the right side of the strip. I thought I trimmed the ridge to fit the 20 mm strip with limited room on each side but I think I need to go back and trim that 3-4 mm off. Next step, remove the inner strip, remove half of the cover strip glued to the inner thigh ridge and re-trim the the ridge.It doesn't look that bad but its one of those details I don't think I can pass over. Opinions?

 

 

 

 If anyone has any advice regarding my previous post about how the screws heads for the brackets should sit, please chime in when you can. 

[Bulldog44[TK]]

While waiting for some cover strips to dry I worked on trimming the rivet covers for the belt. 

 

 

I used a square stencil to mark & then trim the covers. I couldn't find any measurements for the exact size of the square to cut so I went with what looked close to the screenshots I was referring to. I used the 28 mm square on the stencil. The 25 mm square set it too close to the circle.

I centered the raised round area as best as I could by just eyeing it. 

 

Seems centered enough and a perfect square fit.

 

Here are all three finally cut to size. 

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Luckily today I received the S snaps to install on my armor. The male halves of the snaps were missing with the strapping kit but RS Prop Masters were extremely kind to send me some extra snaps.

I hit another speed bump though with one on the wire brackets for the kidney plate. The bracket was somewhat twisted really bad and would not sit flat when installed so I tried to bend it back a bit. To my horror, it snapped in two pieces with very little force.
I was wondering if anyone has an extra RS bracket they are willing to sell me.
If not , is it possible that the bracket pieces can be welded back together? This sounds highly unlikely since they are so small and fragile but thought to ask anyway.

 

Edited June 25, 2014 by Bulldog44

[LeMaxim[TK]]

I wouldn't think the bracket would be able to be mended in any way. Best option would be to either check with RS or make your own. 

I remember reading an how-to but cannot seem to find it. 

You might, however, find some inspiration in this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16007-correct-wire-for-brackets/

They also link someone who sells brackets, but I don't think they are in business any more. 

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I wouldn't think the bracket would be able to be mended in any way. Best option would be to either check with RS or make your own. 

I remember reading an how-to but cannot seem to find it. 

You might, however, find some inspiration in this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16007-correct-wire-for-brackets/

They also link someone who sells brackets, but I don't think they are in business any more. 

Thanks Maxim for your response. I did ask RS for one and they said they would send it but it was not in the package with the snaps. Maybe Japanese Customs lost it checking the contents or RS forgot. I already asked them for so many favors I don't want to push my luck. It was my fault it broke and I will try to get one or make one if possible. I contacted Mr. No Stripes to see if he can sell me just one and I might be in luck!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I re-trimmed the right thigh so the cover strip matched the rising ridge line better. It looks a lot better now.

I will finalize the top end of the cover strip later.

 

The inner left thigh half was formed extremely thin and bends without much force. Anyone else have this problem?  It already bent in two places leaving unwanted crease lines along the bottom rim of the thigh. So I cut some scrap PVC to fit the inner shape of the rim and will glue it into place to add some strength to the tin walls. Hopefully this will reduce unwanted bending to the plastic and those nasty white crease lines. I will post a photo with the reinforced plastic in place once the glue sets.

Edited June 25, 2014 by Bulldog44

[gazmosis[501st]]

Your attention to detail is admirable, Bulldog! Your final product will show that! I agree that it looks much better with the cover strip centered properly.

I looked back and saw that you attacked the top of that right thigh and evened the top out. (it comes from RS with one side about 1 inch longer than the other) But then you glued a cover strip that is 3/4 of an inch longer than the thigh?? My suggestion is to pre-cut your cover strips to the proper length and shape prior to installation. You are going to have to trim and shape your cover strip risking a nick on the thigh itself. This is an investment worth protecting.

I can't wait to see this product finished!!!!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Thank you Steve for your kind words and input. I had a lot of conflicting thoughts about which way to go with the right thigh top edge. At first I wanted to keep it true to the RS suit but at some point I decided to try to even out the top just because I thought it looked better. I was starting to get good results in forming the return edges to meet but then things started to go bad so I stopped. I couldn't reverse what I had done and so I thought if I extended the cover strip , I could then surgically trim to fit the top of the thigh. I too agree that this might be risky but I will give it a try. I plan on masking off the exposed areas with tons of tape and lots of prayers. No matter how careful I have been during this build so far I managed to scratch , nick and bend things.

Since most of the arm and leg parts are now assembled with cover strips in place, I will start focusing on the belt, knee ammo pack and sniper plate.

Just wondering, do the rivet covers I trimmed for the belt need to be trimmed down a bit more? Trimmed closer to the raised circle?

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I would like to drill the holes and install the snaps on the AB plate for the belt . Could someone point me in the right direction about measurements to place these holes for the snaps?

[maxsteele[TK]]

I would like to drill the holes and install the snaps on the AB plate for the belt . Could someone point me in the right direction about measurements to place these holes for the snaps?

 

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17032-help-attaching-snaps-for-canvas-belt-to-abdomen/?p=205725

 

 

For my build, I glued snap plates onto my ab instead of drilling / installing snaps on my ab.  I just didn't want to drill any more holes into my ab.  

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Thanks Ron for the link. Gluing the snaps is a good idea and one to consider for my build.

 

 

Here is the latest on my build:

 

Worked on the belt this week. Measured and punched a hole for the center rivet. Measured and just pencil marked the side rivet placement. From edge to the mark is 10 mm. There are already dimpled hole markings but I read these are not correct for the side rivet holes. The center dimple matched my measurements for the middle ricet hole so no problems there.

Just another shot of the side rivet hole markings:

 

Measured between the snaps for my center rivet placement and punched a hole through with the rounded file. RS placed black sticker dots to show where to place the rivets. They didn't always match my measurements but were helpful in putting the belt together.

 

After hammering in the center rivet, I drilled out the side rivet holes and pencil marked the spot to punch through on the canvas belt. 

 

 

All the rivets installed.

 

Reverse side:

 

Not sure if I did this correctly but I went with the left side(holster side) to overlap the right side when putting on the belt. (left side- velcro facing in / right side- velcro facing out.)

I referred to the RS belt :

 

[LeMaxim[TK]]

I'm not sure how I put it but I think I have the outwards Velcro on the holster side (left) because it's easier to hold that side fixed while matching, aligning and securing with the right side. Especially if there's a blaster in the holster while doing it.

When you are all dressed up it shouldn't matter since the TD will cover the join.

I would be surprised if all the movie used ones were exactly the same.

 

As far as I can see your belt looks great. Good call on the outer rivets. It's a small difference from RS measurements, especially when the cover is on, but I think the placement helps keep belt-flaring away.

 

Next step. Be mindful about the placement of the holster-belt rivets. I'm sure you've got it covered but it's too easy to miss align if you look at the wrong examples.

 

Rivets go near the bottom.

There's a great diagram for this. Don't have the link right now but it's in my build thread. I also put a lot of time into the belt.

 

Keep up the great work!