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Posted

First time caller long time listener question:

 

 

I am building my ATA Kit at the moment and am having heaps of trouble with the ear caps, already killed one pair.

 

Thats why ATA gives you two right *GULP*

 

Can you link me a forum or tutorial for help. All the info I can find:

 

Pandatrooper build ETC says to cut and test, rinse and repeat.....

 

but what am I cutting and shaping with, technique and tips?

Posted (edited)

I use a belt sander. but you should cut off only a little at a time. start with really large cuts and slowly get a feel for how much to trim.

 

use your eye and the old messed up ears as a training guide!

 

it's also best to put the screws though the helmet to hold it in place when you're test fitting ears.

 

draw a pencil line about 1/4" from where you think your final cut will be and slowly work down

the ear until it follows the contour. the key is to take off small amounts until you get it

the way you want it.

 

you need to look at a lot of ATA helmet photos in threads in the EIB and centurions that wear ATA

 

this will be your best guide!

 

5506824598_b9c2097a86_z.jpg

 

5506229445_0e31aa5a1e_z.jpg

 

and finally fitted.

 

LOOK close...

 

5506237265_fd89a4226f_z.jpg

 

5506835418_f17ea6aaec_z.jpg

 

5506837378_f1fef15b0f_z.jpg

 

5506833420_e821bb0c20_z.jpg

 

all these photos show how to leave excess material in all the right places to keep the ears flush

 

zoom in, and copy the shapes exactly. keep special attention to the rear of the ears and don't just sand

them flat at the top of the cap. every line on the ears is a curved complex line that when held under pressure

aligns with the helmet.

 

don't follow the mould lines exactly or you'll get screen accurate "gaps"

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
Posted

Remember, they might look a little odd going on there because they are not perfectly symmetrical like we might expect them to be. Just take your time & look at the reference pics a lot. Thats all I really did with mine.

Posted

follow the pencil lines, and ignore the forming lines... you really have to look close at the shapes.

 

the rear of the cap (top part ) of each ear needs to have extra material,

 

as well the curved parts that go over the cheek tubes need to have lot's of extra material to have no gap.

 

the pencil lines, and the final ON helmet photos above show clearly the profiles needed to trim ATA ears.

Posted (edited)

Well, with the help of the Outpost 42 Team I gave my old set ears another go.

 

I have got the back line up good but still have a bit of a gap in the front.

 

What do you think?

 

---------

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working removed
  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)
On 11/18/2012 at 1:00 PM, PeteK said:

Well, with the help of the Outpost 42 Team I gave my old set ears another go.

 

I have got the back line up good but still have a bit of a gap in the front.

 

What do you think?

-----------

 

I know Im new and all but they look great to me. From what I understand, they arent supposed to sit perfectly flush to begin with as the gaps lend themselves to the assymetrical and wonky nature of the helmet.

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working removed
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I am struggling with the ear pieces right now! I just recieved my new TM armor and have the helmet assembled and can't get the ear pieces to fit. I seems like I need to twist and really manipulate them to get them close. I am so excited about this armor and don't want to mess it up. HELP!!!

Posted

I am struggling with the ear pieces right now! I just recieved my new TM armor and have the helmet assembled and can't get the ear pieces to fit. I seems like I need to twist and really manipulate them to get them close. I am so excited about this armor and don't want to mess it up. HELP!!!

Pictures will help us help you. Make sure that you have the right and left ear on the right side of the helmet as well.

Posted

Back in the day when I was learning drafting, I used a tool called a 'flexible French curve'. It's basically a heavy length of flexible plastic or rubber with a solid core. You can bend it to any shape and it will hold that shape.

 

I'm wondering if one of those might be useful in transferring the exact curve of the helmet to the ear. The catch would seem to be the point at the junction of the tube and helmet side- that's more of a bend than I think most of the curves are designed to handle.

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