DVH E-11 blaster kit project

[Oztrooper[TK]]

Definitely interested in this kit when ready...always willing and proud to buy American....

[seantrooper[TK]]

Would be good if you could include a pipe with the kit, it's hard to get the correct size pipe here in Australia

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Thanks guys...i want this to end up being the ultimate E-11 pipe build kit. Im taking everyones suggestions seriously and after i get the basic kits going, i will impliment alot of the ideas you guys are throwing at me

 

Would be good if you could include a pipe with the kit, it's hard to get the correct size pipe here in Australia

 

I actually had intentions on doing that if the buyer wanted I also plan to eventually offer different types. Standard PVC, the acrylic possibly that Brian (Stormtrooperguy) mentioned a few posts up, and a metal one.

[Evilboy[501st]]

You should include scope rails and brackets...wink wink nudge nudge....

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

You should include scope rails and brackets...wink wink nudge nudge....

 

heh..well now theres an idea...i wonder who i could get to make them? hmmmmmmmm

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

making these international might be tough on lou's not being on the watch list.

 

especially if he did a full mockup with bolt and inner barrel in metal.

 

are you going to keep the bolt and front barrel separate so a person could have the cocking action?

 

keep in mind lou that there's a retaining pin that is spring loaded inside the bolt, so when you cast it

there will be a plug where the cocking handle would seat.

 

you might want to disable that part of the bolt when you cast it, so that the cocking handle will

fit. also would be a good idea just to make the whole bolt hollow to allow wires to pass.

 

also if you make a metal tube it won't have the bayonet flat area. making them out of pvc thick wall electrical conduit

allows for strength, details like the above mention, and just overall heavyness.

 

a metal tube would have the luxury of being indestructable but would most likely be missing the bayonet detail.

Edited December 1, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

making these international might be tough on lou's not being on the watch list.

 

especially if he did a full mockup with bolt and inner barrel in metal.

 

are you going to keep the bolt and front barrel separate so a person could have the cocking action?

 

My intention is to make it non functional. It will be made in separate pieces that will be glued together by the builder, but they of course wont HAVE to be glued together, so im sure some people could mod it to actually have it function

 

keep in mind lou that there's a retaining pin that is spring loaded inside the bolt, so when you cast it

there will be a plug where the cocking handle would seat.

 

you might want to disable that part of the bolt when you cast it, so that the cocking handle will

fit. also would be a good idea just to make the whole bolt hollow to allow wires to pass.

 

Yep, did that already Vern! I filled the hole with clay and only left an indentation to put the handle into. I will cast the handle without that long part that goes way into the bolt...it will be half the length so it will just fit into the indentation. I am going to make the bolt internals hollow so wires can pass through it , and to try and keep the weight down. I am not going to do the inner barrel hollow at first though. Thats going to be a huge paint to cast hollw, but once i figure out a good way to do it, i probably will.

 

also if you make a metal tube it won't have the bayonet flat area. making them out of pvc thick wall electrical conduit

allows for strength, details like the above mention, and just overall heavyness.

 

I can make a flatspot on the metal tube with no problem, but that would be up to the builder. Ive done it before with a sanding block.

 

a metal tube would have the luxury of being indestructable but would most likely be missing the bayonet detail.

Edited December 1, 2012 by Darth Voorhees

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

as long as the metal is thick enough I suppose. sounds like you've got it all under control!

 

can't wait to see one of these built up!

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

So far i do...but we'll see lol. I wanna see one built up too! I just hope all my ideas work. Sometimes the idea is good but then you run into problems executing it lol. But so far im already happy with the couple of first cast parts. the mag housing is cast along with the bayonet lug and rear sight. molds are done for the front nozzle, but havent cast one yet to modify. i also did half the mold for the internal bolt and the allen bolts and cocking handle.

 

I have to work on other peoples commissions tomorrow so not sure how much on this i'll get done, but im gonna try and get a little more banged out.

[Evilboy[501st]]

I am not going to do the inner barrel hollow at first though. Thats going to be a huge paint to cast hollw, but once i figure out a good way to do it, i probably will.

what about using small diameter PVC tubing for the barrel. I actually used the PVC tube from a set of window blinds...but there are some really small diameter plumbing tubes as well...

Edited December 1, 2012 by Evilboy

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

he's going to cast the inner barrel as well. so he's talking about making that hollow.

I just use 3/4" pvc pipe.

Edited December 1, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Right Vern. I am toying with the idea of using a small diameter conduit (to be included in the kit) and just casting the ends of the actual internal barrel so they can be inserted into the conduit on either end. It would make for a bit more assembly, but give you a 100% hollow inner barrel that wouldnt be as brittle as resin.

Edited December 1, 2012 by Darth Voorhees

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Ok so here are some of the first castings. A couple of them miscast, but you get the idea. I left all the corrosion and natural weathering from the originals so you can see that in some of the castings. They also have dirt on them from the original parts. With time that will fade, plus i will be casting the kits in black onyx resin so it will be less noticeable due to that as well.

 

First is the Mag housing. I cast all the detail pieces separate for a more realistic look.

Here is the clip, it miscast a bit and will be shortened a bit more, but you get the idea

 

Here is the rear site and bayonet lug:

 

here is the un-modded nozzle. i just need to widen it at the base,and will also make it to cast front and back to fit nicely on the inner barrel.

 

here is a comparison with mine (left) and doopy doos(right). you can see why i think theirs may be fabricated.The shapes are all wrong and the bolts arent even Allen bolts!

Doopy's on top, DVH on the bottom

 

All the allen bolts are in rubber at the moment. The kit will include the cast allen bolts so you can use those as "pins" to assemble, or you can use real allen bolts.

Edited December 1, 2012 by Darth Voorhees

[Geaux Saints[TK]]

This is looking REALLY good! Great job so far! Doopydoos may not have to worry about shipping any more E-11's once you get this thing going. I had to borrow a fellow trooper's Hyperfirm E-11 for a parade I was in. First time I ever got a good close up of that. It was pretty cool. Can't wait to get my hands on this blaster.

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Thanks man..its alot of work, but i think it'll be worth it in the end.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

with this type of detail we're gonna have a winner! just make sure you keep making many molds

i'd make like 3 molds at a time! of everything!

 

don't make the clip too small! that looks about right!

Edited December 2, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

thanks Vern! Yea after lookin at it again, i was thinkin the same about the clip actually.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

you don't have the clip stop on yours?

 

sight rails sit better on rear sights with the sight flipped the other way?

 

adds height for seating!

Edited December 2, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

What do you mean Vern about the clip stop?

 

I was actually thinking of modding the rear sight to better fit the scope rails...great minds think alike

 

I will post up what i wanted to do soon

 

I will be posting pics of the Allen bolts , cocking handle and front sight soon as well!

 

[Evilboy[501st]]

This:

Edited December 3, 2012 by Evilboy

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

I have a clip with the stop on it like jonathon

 

 

and all you need to do with the rear sight is flip the sight so the switch leaves metal down on it's front edge.

so you'd cast the sight with it so the lever is facing forwards. this allows thesight rail to sit on top of the rear sight lever.

 

 

Edited December 3, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Gotcha on the sight..that was pretty much what i was thinking.

 

OH! that clip stop..yea i have that but its all the way on the other end of the clip. Its a full clip and is like11" long or so. I only cast the end. I probably could cast the stop so it can be added for looks. Do you actually see it when an actual gun is together? Mine is in pieces soooo lol.

 

I want to thank you guys for all the help and input. Means alot, and will help make this a better final product i hope many troopers will be able to enjoy

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

when you cut off the clip, you don't cut off the end with the "off arrow" logo.

 

you have to cut off the clip by moving the "off arrow" logo down to the area with the clip stop.

 

also have to cut down the inner spring to fit

 

 

 

 

 

here's how I did it:

 

wrap duct tape around the area to cut. (I use one curve and 1/2) this way the clip has one full curved area and 1/2 of a curved area

from the clip stop, to the off arrow end of the clip. in the photos above you can see the distance from the end of the clip stop,

to the 'off arrow' end of the clip.

 

once you have this area chosen (and I did quite a bit of research)

then you cut off the end of the clip like this:

 

where the duct tape wraps around you need to cut the wide parts first- this will be bent into a flange for the clip "off arrow" cap.

after you've cut the wide part of the clip, then you need to cut the narrow sides

simply follow the duct tape and take off the front and back.

 

after the clip has been cut, you take the "off arrow" clip and look at the distance of the rolled over edge.

with this as your guide, take a pair of pliars with a square tip, you bend the flange out and upwards

from the top and bottom, creating the flange on top and bottom.

 

this shortens the clip.

 

you can use the cut off end as a guide for bending the flanges to look like the original.

 

in the above photos the fitting is so tight I had to use a hammer to seat the "off arrow" clip.

 

and the clip fully works and probably could even have dummy rounds put in.

 

 

and finally how it looks when it's seated in the magwell.

Edited December 3, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Ah thanks Vern!

 

 

BUT i dont want to cut the original clip...even though the whole gun is cut up, lol..id like to keep the clip intact.

 

I can get that look though by just taking a mold of the clip stop and putting it on a casting and then casting the entire clip with the stop attached again. I like the way that looks. Im gonna mess with that and see what i can do

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

keep in mind that the spring steel will cast too thick to fit, so you'll have to modify the clip stop so that it will fit

into the magwell.

 

the design of the part is to put pressure with the spring steel on the side of the magwell.

so you should sand the casting when you're getting ready to make the final part

taking off some of the slope on the wedge.

 

if you need I can put an arrow on the area to sand to fit. otherwise the casting will be too thick to fit with the clip, and the stop inside

the mag well.

 

actually cutting down the clip might be according to your local gun law.

in california having a 32rnd mag is a crime in itself.

 

what is the law in NY? I'd bet cutting it down is better in your area.

Edited December 3, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392