Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Alright, just got in my MTK helmet and about to begin but had some questions. After extensive reading in here regarding the painting of the inside, I have decided I want to go with the rubber spray inside. However, is it best to do this prior to making the cuts? I would think the rubber coat would affect the cutting out if the teeth and eyes as well as affect the rivets. Also, if I do it prior to placing in the lens, will it affect the placement of the lens? My goal is to not only look good but add just a touch of weight and stability to the bucket. Going from a full Godzilla tusken kit to this abs makes me feel like I'm going to break the dang thing at any point!

Posted

I use the spray-on truck bed liner from just about any automotive section. Trim out and build your bucket first, mask off the eyes and teeth. I've used the spray rubber before, but it peels and it's hard to get things to stick to it.

 

have fun and good luck.

Posted (edited)

I used PlastiDip on mine. It's cheap, sprayed on easily and has done a great job at keeping my helmet cool and looks much neater.

 

I've been told that it's best to spray before cutting, but I did it afterwards and didn't run into any serious problems. I just packed the teeth with silly putty, sprayed, and pulled the putty out. Even if anything escapes your teeth/eyeholes, the spatter rubs off pretty easy.

Edited by Kyro
Posted

Here's what I did over the weekend. Used Plasti-Dip and cut eyes teeth prior to painting, just taped thoroughly.

 

TRcVQla.jpg

 

5fbFvTp.jpg

 

JPykg2F.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hopefully the truck bed liner smell goes away eventually. It's somewhat noxious. I may regret doing it and its non canon-ness but I really like the way a helmet looks when its blacked out inside.

 

Has anyone tried using this rubberized undercoating stuff from bondo? I saw it at the hardware store today next to the truck bed liner spray goop:

 

70008002308.jpg

 

 

-Eric

Posted

Not to sound like a dick; but why bother with this step?

 

Not a dickish question at all. Because I like the way it looks. It's non screen accurate and totally non canon but i dig it. De gustibus non est disputandum.

 

It will make the helmet heavier of course... and from I can tell so far... smellier too.

 

-Eric

Posted

I used a truck bed liner spray in a can. Smelled really bad at first, after it dried though the smell went away.

Posted

What do you guys think about doing this after the lid has been completed? I just painted mine black inside because I ended up in a rush to finish before ComicCon here in July.

 

I want to re-do the helmet and remove the heinous hard hat liner I have in there and replace it with some great padding I found on the Legion boards. But before I put it in I was thinking of re-spraying it with plasti-dip.

 

I LOVE the way the inside looks with the plasti-dip spray, it just looks like what I'd imagine a "real" lid might look! The padding I bought will really add to that effect

 

PadSet.jpg

 

Do you think it would be more difficult to achieve now? I'm just paranoid that I'll ruin the lid.

 

Would I have to remove the black paint inside so the Plasti-Dip spray will grip or do you guys think just a light sandpaper job on it would be sufficient?

 

Sorry to hijack the thread but it seemed relevant here.

Posted

What do you guys think about doing this after the lid has been completed? I just painted mine black inside because I ended up in a rush to finish before ComicCon here in July.

 

I want to re-do the helmet and remove the heinous hard hat liner I have in there and replace it with some great padding I found on the Legion boards. But before I put it in I was thinking of re-spraying it with plasti-dip.

 

I LOVE the way the inside looks with the plasti-dip spray, it just looks like what I'd imagine a "real" lid might look! The padding I bought will really add to that effect

 

PadSet.jpg

 

Do you think it would be more difficult to achieve now? I'm just paranoid that I'll ruin the lid.

 

Would I have to remove the black paint inside so the Plasti-Dip spray will grip or do you guys think just a light sandpaper job on it would be sufficient?

 

Sorry to hijack the thread but it seemed relevant here.

 

I fully support PlastiDip on the inside.

 

I don't think you'll need to do much besides sand the inside first. And your worse case scenario will be having to remove the PlastiDip - which scrapes off pretty cleanly.

Posted

I used Dupli-Color rubberized undercoating for mine. I did mine exactly like Tsalagi did his. I trimmed and assembled my helmet, took it apart and then taped around the eyes a little to give a place for the hot glue to adhere to and also masked off the frown area as well. It works perfectly. Afterwards I used some headliner material to cover the frown except where the cutouts are. It looks very nice inside. The reason I did all of this is because it is embarrassing when I let people look at my helmet and it looked like crap inside. When it is finished it just looks better.

Posted

Not to sound like a dick; but why bother with this step?

 

I totally agree! Why make your helmet heavier, smellier and not to mention hotter inside? The only time I would ever do this would be on a helmet that I wouldn't troop in!

  • 2 months later...
Posted

When using Plati Dip, do you need to prime the inside of the helmet first? Or, did you do a layer of white paint, to prevent the black color from coming through?

 

Just curious. I want to blacken the inside of my helmet (I suffer from skinny neck syndrom, so I don't want to ruin the illusion for little kids!), but I dont want to ruin the coloring of the front.

 

Thanks~

~Tim

Posted

I have done the plasti-dip in over a dozen helmets. Priming is not necessary, however I do recommend that you wipe any and all release agents out of your helmet with some gentle mineral spirits and then run some 220 sandpaper on the inside. Just for kicks and a really cool Kevlar type effect, I embed pre-cut pieces of cheesecloth into the plasti-dip while still wet. Dabbing this with the same brush you applied it with will get it to stay in place better. The smell is horendous but will go away completely after a 36 hour cure.

Why do this?? A black interior better hides your face. If you are not wearing a balaclava, shorter fans looking up into your helmet will see black rather than a less believable white. It also gives a little density to the helmet without adding too much weight.

  • Like 1
Posted

I spray the inside of mine with that "hammered" black rattle can stuff from hardware stores. It adds texture to the inside and makes anything I glue inside stick better. I also llike the look of the black inside.

 

I orginally thought it would help with any glare. Same reason we rub black polish under the eyes in football. Not sure there is any benefit in that area though.

 

Then, like Tray, I just think it looks better when people look inside the lid.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I'm going to skip this as well, what I'm going to do is just pretty much cover the inside with industrial velcro and use black eva and craft foam around my eventual electronics and use it for my padding... I have tons of it and I can cut and shape it to look like anything.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...