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Posted

So I recently finished my ESB RS propmasters build Seen here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21427-rs-props-pvc-first-suit-up-pics/page__fromsearch__1 , and I built it with original strapping and split rivets, as I was going for as close to Prop Replica as I was able.

 

I also have A CFO suit that Mark got about 3/4 done for me (I need to size and finish the legs).

 

I also Have a TM built suit on the way for my ANH hero/stunt suit.

 

The problem I have is that all those suits have a gap between the ab and the kidney. Not a surprise since I weigh more than those lil actors those suits were built for. The problem is that the only thing that should keep me from the higher levels of certification are about 4 inches give or take on each side of each suit. (I'm guessing on the TM as it has not gotten here yet, but based on the RS).

 

I am not a fan of shims, the armor has gaps other places, I do not see why the sides should make a difference, but rules are rules so I understand. The problem is how to do them. IS it permissible to have the shims not be joined via abs paste to the armor parts? I have seem some real hatchet jobs trying that, and even when done well it is noticeable.

 

I am thinking of cutting spare plastic and having it set on top of the side straps, and under the ab and kidney, but I am not sure if that would pass muster.

 

Most of the centurion pictures I look at are either Smallish guys or guys who have abs pasted to varying degrees of success. I really do not want to destroy expensive armor trying to do that, but it seems a shame not to go EIB and Centurion just beacause of a few inches on the sides.

 

Any pointers would be appreciated.

Posted

AFAIK you can use a spare piece of plastic and attach it to create the illusion of no gap. When I was fatter, I used a piece of plastic and cut holes out so not to disturb the fasteners then attached it with velcro.

Posted

For EI we've been allowing something as simple as having a piece of ABS that wraps around the inside. Not ideal, but it can look good depending on how done. Heck, in the early days people just used the back of a sign they got at home depot. Going this route today, you can even put a flush shim in there rather than simply behind the ab/kidney.

 

For HIPS armor - since they used to be painted one could do seamless shims like you do on a clone as you'll paint over it anyway.

 

I think a better route is to push the armor makers to increase the size of their bucks if possible, but failing this it would seem a flush shim of the same size of the gap would be the next ideal.

 

The reason we call this out is if you look at stormtroopers in ANH especially but also in ESB (as these are the only two affected), there is minimal black exposed. The back plate butts to the kidney, the biceps usually sit right along the edge of the shoulder bells. The cut away the backs of the shins just enough to allow them to crouch.

 

So aesthetically the goal is to minimize the amount of black showing. Every action figure and other representation of stormtroopers show them with closed sides too.

Posted

But hasn't the recent voting on the Centurion requirements changed how we have to do the side gaps now with the vote to take the word "ideally" out of the Centurion CRL.

 

For level three certification (if applicable):

  • Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

So this would read now: There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

 

I'm just curious if this was the intent of the recent vote or just an oversight in trying to clean up the CRL's?

Posted

Even that wording doesn't make it a hard fast requirement for no gap. The word 'should' implies that it is still allowable to have a gap, within reason. If no gaps were allowed, it would be "shall"

Posted

As of about a year ago (?), we allow up to a 1/2" gap IIRC. This was due to the fact that some troopers did indeed have a small gap from time to time, and also allows a little wiggle room without saying it's OK to have a 4" or even 6" gap.

Posted

I myself was concerned with this. I have an RT kit coming and I am not Luke Skywalker size by no means. Lol Does anyone have a link to a thread or a picture showing a Centurion level side shimming? Thanks!

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

I myself was concerned with this. I have an RT kit coming and I am not Luke Skywalker size by no means. Lol Does anyone have a link to a thread or a picture showing a Centurion level side shimming? Thanks!

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

I'd be interested in seeing that too!!!

Posted (edited)

Would something like this still work?!?

 

 

 

rqmTRdp.jpg

 

I copied this pic from Evolver79's ANH Centurion Status thread here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16140-tk-7936-requesting-anh-centurion-status14rt/

Edited by gmrhodes13
photo updated gmrhodes13 2021
Posted (edited)
On 10/24/2012 at 2:48 AM, necron999 said:

Would something like this still work?!?

 

 

 

rqmTRdp.jpg

 

I copied this pic from Evolver79's ANH Centurion Status thread here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16140-tk-7936-requesting-anh-centurion-status14rt/

 

Certainly for EI. It used to work for Centurion too, but perhaps not now. Mathias or Tom will have final word.

Edited by gmrhodes13
photo updated gmrhodes13 2021
Posted

I would not have approved that for centurion.

So do we have an example of a 230+ lbs. trooper who meets these new requirements? If not any ideas on how someone this size can get approved as a Centurion with 2 inch side gaps? Or do we all just need to go on a serious diet cause we are too fat for this program?

Posted (edited)

I think the only way for guys like us is to potentially hose our armor by trying to bond the shim directly to the kidney plate. Even a well done patch looks like a patch to me and is more distracting than the black space IMHO. If bonding is the only option I may have to forgo the program if I cannot make it look even remotely ok on some scraps first. I wont be destroying my RS or my TM trying it that's for sure.

 

Maybe we can storm the RS offices and demand they make a "fat boy" Kidney buck :laugh1: Maybe we can take up a collection and convince TM to make one too?

 

On the upside it seems side shims are not required for ROTJ, so maybe we can just all go ROTJ. We need more ROTJ builds anyway :P

Edited by rhapsodyred99
Posted

So do we have an example of a 230+ lbs. trooper who meets these new requirements? If not any ideas on how someone this size can get approved as a Centurion with 2 inch side gaps? Or do we all just need to go on a serious diet cause we are too fat for this program?

The reason I would not approve that is not because of the shims themselves but how he affixed them.

Posted

I think the only way for guys like us is to potentially hose our armor by trying to bond the shim directly to the kidney plate. Even a well done patch looks like a patch to me and is more distracting than the black space IMHO. If bonding is the only option I may have to forgo the program if I cannot make it look even remotely ok on some scraps first. I wont be destroying my RS or my TM trying it that's for sure.

 

Maybe we can storm the RS offices and demand they make a "fat boy" Kidney buck :laugh1: Maybe we can take up a collection and convince TM to make one too?

 

On the upside it seems side shims are not required for ROTJ, so maybe we can just all go ROTJ. We need more ROTJ builds anyway :P

 

Hi Frank - as Mathias noted there is a path to Centurion using shims. At this time it's not feasible to require that Centurion be so exact, and even if we did change that standard it would take a vote of FISD to make it so.

 

Another path is to reach out to your preferred armor vendor and see if they can make the buck taller. I know RT can do this a bit, not sure about ATA but he may be able to make this work too. It would be simple enough to - just add a block underneath the existing mold for those that need it.

Posted

I would suggest using silicone caulk or something to make the transition between armour and shim more seamless as well. Like a kind of filler. That way it kind of slopes instead of a a vertical transition. It's just an idea and not something I've seen done so the results might not be as I imagine, but it could work.

Posted

Okay so my RT will be coming in December and I am/was REALLY determined to be the first Centurion in my Garrison but this makes me a little concerned now. Has ANYONE done a proper job of this new standard yet?

Posted

Okay so my RT will be coming in December and I am/was REALLY determined to be the first Centurion in my Garrison but this makes me a little concerned now. Has ANYONE done a proper job of this new standard yet?

Several times even before this was the new standard. But not with RT-Mod.

Posted

Several times even before this was the new standard. But not with RT-Mod.

 

Ah okay so somewhere out there in someones build thread is a proper Centurion level shim job of the side of the armor....?

Posted

Ah okay so somewhere out there in someones build thread is a proper Centurion level shim job of the side of the armor....?

Ah, I didn't realise you meant the shims. Then I don't know really.

Posted

Ah, I didn't realise you meant the shims. Then I don't know really.

 

Then my long day at work is clouding my head. lol What were you referring to as nobody has done before with an RT build? I'd like to start researching what will need to do.

Posted

I meant that no one has made a "perfect" RT-Mod build before.

Posted (edited)

I begin to understand the popcorn emote in the first reply...

 

I am guessing more than the shims for RT would be that it is overlaping build not coverstrips, though I understand he can send you strips, just not sure it would pass the new Centurian level since you would probably need to glue them over the overlap.

 

If you trimmed the overlap off they would probably be too small.

 

On a side note I actually have an RT kidney piece, he said it was the default size and the way the buck was made it could not be made bigger. I had hoped since RT is for bigger guys I could sub out the RS kidney and not have to worry about shims. I was wrong it gets it about an inch closer but it still leaves a 2-3 inch gap on each side.

Edited by rhapsodyred99

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