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Posted

Before I set about painting my blaster with primer tonight, I finished the faux bolt extension that I started last night. Sadly I didn't take any pics so I'll have to explain the first bit. Hopefully you'll get the idea once you see the pics below that I took tonight.

 

I found a tube with some end caps that fitted perfectly inside the doopydoos inner tube so I cut it down to the desired length (it rests against where my scope rail enters the barrel).

 

Once in position I marked it with a fine permanent pen (holding the charging handle in place to draw around it). I also drilled a small hole so that I can dowel the charging handle when I glue it in.

 

I took the tube out again and fashioned a big blob of milliput (epoxy putty) over the area required. I made it bigger than the slot in the blaster so I could sand it down to fit once it had hardened. And that brings me to this evening...

 

1 - The tube I found in a drawer (it had a ballpoint pen inside it).

2 - Positioned inside the barrel (as it was when I marked it last night).

3 - Milliput shaped to suit (filed flat then filed down to form the shape).

4 - In position on the tube (pre-moulding the milliput onto the tube formed a nice little locating ridge).

5 - The spring I made from a piece of coat hanger wire.

6 - All in position with the end cap holding it in place.

 

lgexBlg.jpg

 

I'm going to hand paint these parts as I want the bolt to be gunmetal and the handle to be black. I shall glue them all in once the main body of the blaster has had its top coat.

 

More soon,

Si.

  • Like 1
Posted

I both love and HATE builds like this...

 

Love it because level of skill and determination are astounding, hate it because the level of skill and determination are astounding :D and sooooo far out of my league! :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

 

The counter alone is unreal, no one will ever believe it is not the real thing, I have taken the graphics to add to my Hyperfirm thank you so much for posting it.

 

I have a real sterling/counter/scope that does not look a fraction as good as yours! :P

 

Can't wait to see it finished, I am betting you would not be able to pick out the real from the resin unless you were right on top of it and picked them up to see how light the resin one is.

 

Just wow.

Posted

...

Can't wait to see it finished, I am betting you would not be able to pick out the real from the resin unless you were right on top of it and picked them up to see how light the resin one is.

...

 

Kind words Frank, and very much appreciated. Although there are one or two areas that would give the game away, but best not to mention those. ;)

 

When I started I didn't think I'd be confident enough to share my first E-11 build with the folk here having seen the stunning results that appear on these pages by people with far more skill than I could muster.

 

It turns out that with a bit of imagination and a lot of luck, even someone as non-practical as me can produce something that looks "good enough" (in my eyes) whilst having lots of fun in the process.

 

Along the way, having been inspired by so many build threads, it seems I've given a few folk ideas for their own spark of inspiration, and that's something I am VERY happy about. :D

 

Si.

Posted

Nice work there

Posted

Nice work there

 

Thanks Glen! :)

 

 

OK, I need some advice from you wonderful people.

 

I have given the main parts a coat of grey primer, sanded, filled

and reprimed, now I have a decision to make. I am torn between:

 

Satin black over gunmetal silver and weather by rubbing down.

OR

Satin black straight over primer and add the weathering by drybrushing.

 

I'm fairly confident I could do it either way and I think I know which way I'd prefer.

So... Question for the knowledgable:

 

How did YOU do yours? Compelling arguements either way would be helpful.

 

Some additional info:

I will be adding gloss to the grip after spraying for the plastic look.

I know it's not screen accurate but I'll be weathering the T-rails

(a personal choice based on how they're supposed to be cooling coils).

 

Si.

Posted

A couple of update pics.

 

First is a few shots of me drilling out my scope to allow me to add the

elements from a cheap monocular I've ordered from the Bay of e.

 

How long it'll take to arrive is anyone's guess but I thought I'd drill it out tonight in preparation.

 

VqK737K.jpg

 

These are just a few shots of the blaster now the primer has dried.

 

SsNqibg.jpg

 

I'd still like some input regarding painting (see previous post) if anyone has any.

 

More soon,

Si.

Posted

From what I hear, trying to put a silver coat underneath the black and rubbing it down doesn't work well with resin casts. Apparently, the paint has a tendency to chip or show all the way down to the base material. I haven't tried myself, so I don't know first hand.

 

However, I've done a little weathering on my build by dry brushing silver over the satin black and it looks really good. Also, I agree with you about weathering the t-tracks. I know it's not screen accurate, but I think it looks better. Still deciding if I will do the same to mine...

Posted (edited)

Thanks Sean, I hadn't heard about the problems rubbing down over resin.

 

A buddy of mine has told me about the hairspray method where you put a silver base over your primer and leave to dry solid. Then spray with a coat of hairspray and leave that to dry. Finally spray with your black topcoat til it's dry enough to touch then go at the weathering detail with a short bristled brush (like a cut down artist's brush) to pull away the black.

 

He's showed me his scope weathered using this method and it looks really good. I was going to try it out on my scope and see how it faired before I went the whole hog and did the same on the blaster itself.

 

I'm still a little unsure about it, which is why I'm looking for different views at the moment. I'm ok at drybrushing, I used to do quite a lot back when I painted Warhammer stuff, but depending upon what's going to give me the best results I'm staying open minded.

 

For now at least. :)

 

****update**** The hairspray method failed for me, had to strip the scope down. :(

Edited by SIMpixels
Posted (edited)

very nice!

 

remember the counter reset button has a hole in it!

 

and if you add the front pins to the counter it would really pop!

 

(I have some real pins for a counter mod if you want to purchase them.)

 

can you put your diagram, and counter digits and my measurements into this thread?

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
Posted

Cool. I can't wait to see your amazingly detailed armour build once you start :)

 

Hoping to hear back any time now. I even ordered my magnets yesterday in readyness. I've got everything but the actual armour now. lol

Posted
On 10/26/2012 at 9:34 AM, TK Bondservnt 2392 said:

...

can you put your diagram, and counter digits and my measurements into this thread?

 

Thanks Vern, yes, I've redone the diagram to show your measurements below.

 

ltPZzoV.jpg

 

As you can see, I added an extra half a millimetre to the window edge dimension

so that I had a bridge between it and the reset switch aperture.

 

(for those of you not aware, this is the thread we're discussing: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21494-hengstler-face/ )

Posted

With regards to the weathering, I say do both.

 

I did the undercoat method & dry brushing. I found that the undercoat method produced a better effect on th edges where you want to replicate the long term wear. You just lightly sand the edge and it pops. This works particularly well if you use a textured paint.

 

The dry brush is nice for areas that require a bit more wear.

 

I also used a liquid latex mask for areas where i wanted to simulate chipped paint. It worked better than i hoped.

Posted

With regards to the weathering, I say do both.

 

I did the undercoat method & dry brushing. I found that the undercoat method produced a better effect on th edges where you want to replicate the long term wear. You just lightly sand the edge and it pops. This works particularly well if you use a textured paint.

 

The dry brush is nice for areas that require a bit more wear.

 

I also used a liquid latex mask for areas where i wanted to simulate chipped paint. It worked better than i hoped.

 

Thanks Rob, I went with the flat black base & dry brushing on the blaster itself (finished it last night, pics soon folks) and tried my buddy's tip about using hairspray between coats on just my scope. Sadly that didn't work out, my top coat went all mottled so I've stripped the scope down again to repaint. So glad I didn't attempt that method on the whole thing as I'd be weeping right now. :)

 

I shall try it again, this time without the hairspray. I'll give sanding and drybrushing together a try as you suggested.

 

Posted

Just a quick update with a couple of pics.

 

I've completed the weathering on the blaster itself. I'm fairly pleased with the results. Still awaiting my scope parts before I can finish the modification. Once that's finished I'll add it (and the counter) and consider the job done.

 

Some shots of the plain black base prior to weathering.

N2kLfq8.jpg

 

And the completed weathering.

ieQYJ0v.jpg

 

 

Posted

Nice work, keep it up

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/4/2012 at 4:52 AM, R5SB said:

This looks so good. Can't wait to see the finished article.

 

Thanks Andy. You'll be pleased to hear its finally finished.

 

But before I get to the pics of it, here's how I did the scope...

 

This pic kinda speaks for itself. I bought a cheap monocular,

stripped it down and used the internals where I could.

 

You'll notice the raggedy looking scope, that's the result

of rubbing it down after my original painting debacle.

 

tv78CVQ.jpg

 

 

 

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