Dday[501st] Posted October 15, 2012 Report Posted October 15, 2012 I just took a quick look at it and put the caps and face plate on and wasn't sure if I needed to drop the gray area to a smaller size. It was a cursory glance with untrimmed pieces, so I may be way off the mark. I'm out this week so got half the armor trimmed so far but haven't had a chance to look at it again after trimming. I wasn't sure if the tube you supplied was already correctly measured, or might need trimming by me. So no information taken from anything, just a question from an uneducated builder (me) to someone who's going through the same deal. Quote
troopermaster Posted October 15, 2012 Report Posted October 15, 2012 The tubes that are supplied with my kits are cut to the same length as original canisters. Anything else you are comparing it to is wrong. Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Posted October 15, 2012 The TD (as you can see from the picture) seems visually to be right on. I read somewhere else it should be 7 1/2" I think, but I didn't measure it. I am fully confident, through Paul's years of research and work, that he is spot on with his TD. I did do some minor trimming to one end of the grey tube so that it would sit a little more flush inside the end cap, but nothing major. Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Posted October 15, 2012 I just measured mine (that sounds kinda bad ), and it measures just over 7 1/2" long. That would be kinda cool to be able to use it as storage, but I think the stuff shaking around inside might be annoying to me. I'll still consider it, though. Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Posted October 15, 2012 Nice work on that TD. Ā Thanks! Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted October 15, 2012 Report Posted October 15, 2012 Looking good there, you can allways hit the end of the pipe with a little heat, then put the cap on, it will compress the pipe a little so it will make it eaier to remove Quote
troopermaster Posted October 15, 2012 Report Posted October 15, 2012 I wouldn't recommend heating the pipe. If you change the inner diameter of the pipe you will have a hard time getting the end cap to fit. Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Posted October 15, 2012 I really didn't have any intention to remove the end caps for storage or anything. I was thinking before I got my kit I would have to glue the end caps on, but Paul's design allows a very snug fit that does not require glue. Very nice! Quote
Dday[501st] Posted October 16, 2012 Report Posted October 16, 2012 Once I get back into the house next week I will check my TD again and report back. I"m fully confident I was just in a rush and didn't really give it a good enough trimmed look. Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 16, 2012 Author Report Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) Without the end caps, I can see how the tube itself has the illusion that it may be too long, but I assure it looks right. Ā Ā Here's the measurement: Ā Edited October 16, 2012 by Geaux Saints Quote
Clamps[TK] Posted October 16, 2012 Report Posted October 16, 2012 looks very nice Ā I need to dismantle mine and move my clips more to the end caps. one of these days i will tackle that. Quote
troopermaster Posted October 16, 2012 Report Posted October 16, 2012 I really didn't have any intention to remove the end caps for storage or anything. Ā That is good to hear. These are simply costumes to wear for fun. No need to have anything functional on them at all. Ā Here's the measurement: Ā Ā And here is an original.... Ā Let's move on now shall we? Ā Keep up the good work Tony Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 17, 2012 Author Report Posted October 17, 2012 OK...I decided to install the brackets on my armor last night (original strapping). I'll admit it....I'm kinda scared to work on the arms and legs for some reason, so I decided to stay productive with the brackets. Here are the measurements that Paul gave me from his suit. Each measurement is from the outside inwards to the first hole of the bracket. Ā Chest - 25mm Abdomen - 25mm Back - 40mm Butt - 40mm Kidney bottom - 40mm / top 120mm Ā He also said when you do the kidney, it is best to do the back and butt plates first then mark the middle of each piece and line them up so you get the brackets to line up properly. All the middle brackets are just centered between the outer brackets and they don't have to be exactly centered. Everything on the original armor is wonky or uneven. Ā First I measured from the outside of the armor in and made a mark. I used a 1/8" drill bit for the screw holes. I placed the first screw in the bracket snug. (I faced the bracket screw holes toward the wearer with the bracket on the armor side. If that is incorrect, Paul please let me know. That's how they looked in several pictures I viewed). I then lined up the bracket, and marked the other hole. Ā Ā I then swung out the bracket to drill the hole. After placing the second screw and bolt, I tightened both bolts fairly snug. Ā Ā Ā I did this for all the brackets. Ā Ā Ā Here are the results... Ā Ā Ā Quote
Clamps[TK] Posted October 17, 2012 Report Posted October 17, 2012 sweet. Keep up the great work and documentation! Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Posted October 18, 2012 I decided to tape up my forearms and biceps. The forearm digs into the bend of my arm when I bend my arm. The forearm also digs into my wrist when I bend my arm.. The corner of the biceps pokes me in my armpit when I reach up to touch my head. Suggestions on how to proceed? The pieces are taped edge to edge with no current overlap. Here are the pics... Ā Ā Ā Looking from behind the bicep Ā Looking from behind the forearm Ā Ā Ā Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Posted October 18, 2012 Also, is the biceps suppose to be flush on top Ā Ā Ā Ā or bottom, like I have done? Ā Ā Quote
troopermaster Posted October 18, 2012 Report Posted October 18, 2012 First thing to do is trim away more of the return edges on your biceps. You really don't want any on the bottom and a small amount on the tops. Line them up on the bottom edges and don't worry about the tops. Overlap the two parts of the bicep so they feel as comfortable as possible. You don't want them tight or too loose, just big enough so that you can bend your arm comfortably. Ā When you add the joining strips to any parts, I find it best (screen accurate) to make the strips the same length as the shorter part rather than trying to hide any mismatch. Remember to trim the corners off the joining strips. Ā Trim all of the return edge away from your wrist and and inner half of your forearms. Only leave a minimal amount of return edge on the outer elbow. Make the curve on the inner elbow deeper if they feel too long. Just trim about 1/4" max and then glue your straps. Any further adjustments can be made by trimming the wrist area but wait until you are suited up before you trim unneccesarily. Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Posted October 18, 2012 If the joining strips are the same length as the shortest side, would there be any chance that some of the joining edge on the long side would be exposed? Ā Also, I've seen how people attach the shoulder bell to the biceps, then the biceps to the forearm. I don't see that on a TM build. Do the bell and biceps connect or is it just the bell cross strap that holds the biceps in place? Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 18, 2012 Report Posted October 18, 2012 Bell and bicep do not connect when built screen accurately. At the most they might hang from the bell cross elastic using hooks. Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Posted October 18, 2012 Thanks. That's what I thought. Quote
troopermaster Posted October 18, 2012 Report Posted October 18, 2012 The long side will be exposed and that is what you want for an accurate build Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 19, 2012 Author Report Posted October 19, 2012 First thing to do is trim away more of the return edges on your biceps. You really don't want any on the bottom and a small amount on the tops. Line them up on the bottom edges and don't worry about the tops. Overlap the two parts of the bicep so they feel as comfortable as possible. You don't want them tight or too loose, just big enough so that you can bend your arm comfortably. Ā When you add the joining strips to any parts, I find it best (screen accurate) to make the strips the same length as the shorter part rather than trying to hide any mismatch. Remember to trim the corners off the joining strips. Ā Trim all of the return edge away from your wrist and and inner half of your forearms. Only leave a minimal amount of return edge on the outer elbow. Make the curve on the inner elbow deeper if they feel too long. Just trim about 1/4" max and then glue your straps. Any further adjustments can be made by trimming the wrist area but wait until you are suited up before you trim unneccesarily. Ā How's this? Ā Ā Ā Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 20, 2012 Author Report Posted October 20, 2012 For this build thread....can you remind me of the different widths for the joining strips for the arms, forearms, legs, and shins. Thanks. Quote
troopermaster Posted October 20, 2012 Report Posted October 20, 2012 You need to trim more off the wrist. You don't want any return edge at all, not even on the detail strip with the indents. Ā For the joining strips, go for 15-17mm for the arms and 20-25mm on the legs. Quote
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 20, 2012 Author Report Posted October 20, 2012 I've trimmed up the forearms and biceps and taped them up for fitting before gluing the joining strips. I'll post pics later for opinions. What are the instructions/pointers with regard to trimming/sizing the thighs and shins? Quote
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