TK-6280 Requesting ANH Stunt Centurion Status[56][RT*]

[MattyJ[TK]]

TK-6280 Requesting ANH Stunt Centurion Status

 

Mat Bedogni

TK-6280

MattyJ

 

6’3â€

90Kgs

 

Outpost 42

 

Armour: RT-Mod

Helmet: T/MC

Boots: TK boots

Neck seal: TK-409

Gloves and latex like white rubber plates: Trooperbay

Holster: Trooperbay

E-11 Blaster: Custom built with Droopy Doo parts, plastic tubing and plastic and metal fittings keeping it light but sturdy)

Thermal Det clips: TK_LEPER

Electronics: Not yet installed (ICOMM + AKER Amp and wireless headset

Canvas Belt: Tkittle

 

Paint: Humbrol colours French Blue, Admiral Grey (had used Midnight blue but saw that this was requested to be changed for a guy to meet requirements)

 

Front View:

 

Right Side View:

Note that my belt is on an angle. I didn't realise I needed to push it down at the back to make it straight and my photographer was none the wiser..

 

Back View:

 

Left Side View:

 

 

Pose:

 

Good comparison pose:

 

Hand painted helmet markings:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spray Painted Vocoder and mouth:

 

3 screws on each side of helmet:

 

 

S-Trim on helmet:

 

Green Lenses:

 

Neck Seal:

 

Elastic straps holding backside down:

 

Male snap on Right side of AB:

 

6 Split Rivets on AB and Kidney plates:

 

 

Thermal Det:

 

 

AB plate paint colours:

 

2 Males snaps on butt plate and 1 Split Rivet on Crotch plate:

 

Belt with 3 square coverplates and drop box positioning:

 

Dropbox backs:

 

Holster fixed with 2 Chicago Screws:

 

 

 

Forearms with no return edge:

 

 

Thigh ammo belt fixed with Split Rivets (redone since EIB using spare ammo belt to move Split rivet to top corner as requested):

 

Sniper Knee plate glued:

 

 

 

Boots:

 

 

E-11 Blaster:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blaster D ring:

 

Please let me know if you need any further close up shots of this blaster.

 

Rubber gloves and latex like white rubber plates:

 

Have to do my shout out again

 

Special thanks go out to Darth Aloha for his awesome thread that helped a hell of a lot during this build and ZaneOX for his guidance and expert advice in helping me set this up right first time.

Getting those gaps right is a science!!

 

Cheers

Mat

[TK5492[TK]]

Looks great Mat! Nice work on adjusting that thigh ammo pack. Those drop boxes will still need to come out further though. And I think Mathias may have said something about your blaster. It is an excellent scratch build though!

 

Good luck

[MattyJ[TK]]

As requested Drop boxes moved further apart:

 

is this acceptable now?

[Locitus[Admin]]

Yes, the belt looks better now.

[MattyJ[TK]]

The glue is still soft so I can move them further if this is not enough. They are very close to the snaps now though.

 

So glad I had that spare ammo belt on hand!! LIFE SAVER

 

Any guidance on blaster would be greatly appreciated.

[Locitus[Admin]]

If you have any doopy resin parts I'd suggest replacing what you have with those, or otherwise spend more time scratch building to get the shapes right.

[MattyJ[TK]]

Thanks re the belt drop boxes. CHECK!

 

Here are some close ups of the blaster. I found that many parts of the droopy Doo kit were very average (muzzle end for example) hence using some alternatives to make it look more realistic

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 18, 2012 by MattyJ

[MattyJ[TK]]

Hi Mathias,

I do have some droopy Doo resin parts. I honestly don't know what needs changing. I can see that the end of the folding stock is flat on the sides on mine so assume this is something you want changed? Anything else?

I spend many hours looking over blaster images to get this as accurate as possible. I really do need some direct pointers to highlight the flaws please as I thought I had it right. I do want to get this CENTURION right though.

Thanks Mat

[Locitus[Admin]]

I'd say that the rear cap and front nozzle would be top priority. But if you have more doopy parts then I wouldn't mind if you used all of them.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Here are some close ups of the blaster. I found that many parts of the droopy Doo kit were very average (muzzle end for example) hence using some alternatives to make it look more realistic

Seeing how the doopy parts are cast from real sterling parts, I fail to see how they could look less realistic?

[Front-a-Little]

Hey there,

nice build, you already got a lot of feedback so it should be easy to become Centurion.

 

A little remark that might not affect Centurion but screen accuracy (correct me if I'm wrong on this): Shouldn't the ear screws be flat ? Yours look like bubble-head screws (I lack the correct term, sorry). Is it just the paint on them that makes them appear round or are they really not flat ?

[Locitus[Admin]]

Nice catch Patrick. I'll suggest that you replace those Mat. It's not as bad as having philips screws, but it's an easy fix.

[TK5492[TK]]

Seeing how the doopy parts are cast from real sterling parts, I fail to see how they could look less realistic?

 

+1

 

If you have an alternate scope, I would definitely use it. The one you have now is what stands out to me most. Forgive me for saying so but it looks like one of the "raccooncitypd" who's blasters I have seen come through these applications from time to time.

 

This is the one I mean: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAR-WARS-STORMTROOPER-E-11-BLASTER-PROP-REPLICA-A-NEW-HOPE-/290774525964?pt=US_Action_Figures&hash=item43b383280c

Edited September 18, 2012 by TK5492

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I noticed that too, the end cap, and sight stood out then there was the the square folding stock, quite alot looks similar

[bigironvault]

Hmm, I'm not sure where all these front nozzles are coming from these days. This is the second application in two days with the same issue.

 

Anyhow - great build imho just those small fixes and presto!

[MattyJ[TK]]

Nice catch Patrick. I'll suggest that you replace those Mat. It's not as bad as having philips screws, but it's an easy fix.

OK, no probs, will get onto that next. Been working on a new blaster all night tonight since getting your changes info. Its now 2am so off to bed for me (yawn!) thanks so much for all your help. I've seen the new threads on the E-11s now and have all the info I need now.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Sleep tight.

[Dr.Senf]

Nice build, with named issues fixed you ll reach your goal.

Dont try to get your blaster more "realistic" get him more screenaccurate,

After all its a science "fiction" weapon.

There are hundrets of buildthreads for every typ of blasters and the resources for parts are endless here on the FISD.

keep it rolling!!

 

 

 

Tapatalk.

[captsafe66[Admin]]

It does look great Trooper!! One or Two more things and you'll be in great shape!!!

 

Good Luck!!

[MattyJ[TK]]

Ok brothers! I have had a marathon night with 4 hours sleep and some serious ES (Empire stuff) on the agenda!

I have purchased, painted and replaced the helmet screws with flat head ones:

 

 

 

I have worked non stop on putting together my Droopy Doo resin kit I had purchased but decided to run with that other (now realised) piece of junk instead.

I primed and then painted silver / Gold (scope only) the blaster then did the top flat black coats. Custom made the scope rail and counter bracket and now have a swanky blaster to brag about

Thanks for making me realise how awesome this blaster is

 

Pics below - this is the full resin Droopy Doo kit:

 

 

D-ring:

 

 

 

 

 

I hope this hard work has paid off and I can join the ranks of the elite troopers...

 

I know its not a requirement now but I do plan to add the cover strips in the future (need to get them from the USA and that takes weeks) as Mathias suggested. I hope this won't hold up things now though...

 

Thanks for all your support guys and all the finer detail notes to allow me to better my armour.

 

Over to you guys now.....

 

Mat

[TK5492[TK]]

Wow, that's much better. Beautiful blaster. I would personally recommend, though, that you cut out the sides of the front sight to give it a more realistic appearance.

 

Other than that- spot on!

[MattyJ[TK]]

I would personally recommend, though, that you cut out the sides of the front sight to give it a more realistic appearance.

 

Hey Tyler, Thanks man! Can you please clarify what you mean about cutting the sides out? I don't understand sorry

Cheers Mat

[MattyJ[TK]]

Wow, that's much better. Beautiful blaster. I would personally recommend, though, that you cut out the sides of the front sight to give it a more realistic appearance.

 

Other than that- spot on!

 

Never mind! DOH! I'm thinking 'scope' when you are saying 'sight' (I guess that's what lack of sleep does to you!

[MattyJ[TK]]

Wow, that's much better. Beautiful blaster. I would personally recommend, though, that you cut out the sides of the front sight to give it a more realistic appearance.

 

how is this for funky?

 

carefully removed with great difficulty and dremelled with a special boring tip:

 

sanded and glued back onto the blaster:

 

excuse the paint looking shiny. It is still wet in the photo (couldn't wait!!!)

 

 

I added some more detail while I had it back in the workshop... I saw these on many blaster when I was looking for images of the sight...

 

 

drilling the counter box holes was a time consuming event. I started with a tiny drill size and worked my way up to a size that would fit the stripped wires.

I trimmed some of the outer casing off the other end by whittling it down like a stick. It made it much easier to poke into the holes with a dab of glue.

 

This is my test fit before gluing and painting:

 

Mat

[MattyJ[TK]]

Hi, is there more I need to do? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?