matt black Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 I found that with the VOX it only works well if the mic is right up close to your lips. Touching them in fact. If it is too far away the static burst cuts in mid sentance. My breathing kept setting of the static burst so thats why I changed the mic and it solved the problem. Quote
Darth Hilarious Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 All these sorts of mics are pretty prone to a thing called proximity effect- meaning, if you want it to sound good, you gotta eat it. Ā That could even be the source of those over-loud iComm noises... voice is actually too quiet, not vice versa. Ā Oh, and LOUD CLEAR VOICES. Mumbling -into a mic- is still mumbling, and no clearer. Quote
Obievon[501st] Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 I'm using an Aker. I have an iComm but I haven't been using it since I didn't like using VOX and I had trouble with my PTT button. I also agree that not being able to adjust the relative volume of the static burst and speech is a little troublesome. The default adjustment is pretty good, and honestly I have a hard time telling how good I sound while I'm in kit, so it's probably not an issue. I haven't been out on many troops, so I'm still experimenting a bit. Ā For my microphone I was going to use the Memorex since I didn't want wires going to my bucket, but it was a bit bulky. Instead I got this from a local store: Ā http://www.amazon.co...ords=throat mic Ā It's a throat mic made for FRS radios. I had to make an adapter between it in the Aker (a simple 1/16" to 1/8" plug adapter). Ā It goes right at the top of my neck seal so there are no wires going in to the bucket. It also adds a fair bit of distortion so it gives a pretty good "radio" sound just by itself. I just tuck the headphone bit under my neckseal, but I could imagine using that someday for some other purpose. So the throat mike works? Great idea! Anyone else use something like this? Quote
tkrestonva[TK] Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 All these sorts of mics are pretty prone to a thing called proximity effect- meaning, if you want it to sound good, you gotta eat it. Ā That could even be the source of those over-loud iComm noises... voice is actually too quiet, not vice versa. Ā Oh, and LOUD CLEAR VOICES. Mumbling -into a mic- is still mumbling, and no clearer. Ā This makes a lot of sense. Ā I use the Aker MR1506 w iComm setup in VOX mode, along with an iPod playing a Legion-provided loop of stormtrooper radio chatter, wired into the Aker's auxiliary port. Everything fits neatly under my chestplate, with the wire to the mic running up my neckseal (making it virtually invisible) to the headset. I have to hold the mic between my teeth and lips while I'm putting my helmet on. Once my helmet is in place I then push out the mic so that it is properly positioned against my lips when in use. As long as I speak clearly (no mumbling), it works perfectly. Furthermore, from a normal speaking distance it is impossible to tell that the sound is coming from my chest - everyone I interact with seems to think the sound coming straight from my hovis. Ā Like Rob said, I've found that turning the volume up to 50% provides the best sound volume balanced with the least amount of feedback. Quote
Moose Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Posted September 5, 2012 Found the dimentions: The 1506 is 3.75x2.81x1.08 The 1505 is 4.13x3.31x1.38 Ā Dosent sound too bad but when drawn out you can see a big difference. Just worried that the 1505 might be too big for under the chestplate. Does anyone have experience with the 1505 that can comment on that? Was also wondering if its worth it to go from a 10 watt to a 12 for the same size difference. Thanks. Quote
matt black Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 My ten watt never goes near full volume. For me it's well loud enough. Quote
Darth Hilarious Posted September 6, 2012 Report Posted September 6, 2012 My amp measures 4" x 3.25" x 2" (including the clip). So prettty massive compared to those ones. It fits with room to spare. But it all depends how big/scrawny you are, and how much space you have in there. My lady tried my kit on (her and I are roughly the same size) and it squashed her boob. Ā Basically, unless you talk to someone who is the exact same build as you, with the same kit, trimmed and fitted exactly the same, your mileage will always vary. Ā FWIW, my $0.02 = it should be fine, provided you don't have boobs. Quote
Moose Posted September 6, 2012 Author Report Posted September 6, 2012 Ive read several posts about using rare earth magnets but I havent seen anything about a recommended size or type. I was considering getting N52 1/2 x 1/8 which is about 8lbs of pull (I think). Didnt know if this would be too strong or if the size magnet was ok. I will be using these for both the helmet and armor build. Quote
hdtheater Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 I used some 5/8" x 1/8" from KJ Magnetics. Worked great for me. I forget the strength, but I could have used a little more. Ā -Eric Quote
WoodChuck[501st] Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 WoodChuck here. I use a LOT of magnets. I get the 1/2" x 1/8" neodymium magnets N42 here: http://www.magnet4less.com Quote
TrooperTim Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 I used rectangle ceramic magnets from the hardware store to hold the inside areas down and clamps to hold the ends. The front thigh seams aren't entirely flush because of it, but I wasn't concerned too much. I used industrial strength velcro in lieu of magnets on some parts. Quote
hdtheater Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Let me clarify, I have no magnets in my finished armor. I only used magnets to secure pieces as I glued with E6000. Also, mine is used only as display. I am too tall to wear the armor. Ā -Eric Quote
Moose Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Posted September 7, 2012 Thats what I plan on using them for, is to secure the pieces when I glue them. Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Since N52 is the strongest magnets you'll find I can assure you that it will be plenty of pull. Anything from N42 and up will do fine. Quote
TK9926 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 You will save alot of money by skipping the magnets and use clamps, its cheaper and you will achive the same results. Quote
Moose Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Posted September 7, 2012 Looking for a good helmet padding but not something too thick. Saw this recommended http://www.specopstactical.com/helmet-mich-pasgt-helmets-p-4059.html Has anyone tried it, or does anyone have another suggestion? Quote
Nicky Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 I haven't tried this, I tried MICH helmet pads off e-bay that looked like these: Ā http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=mich+helmet+pads&_sacat=0&_odkw=mich+pads&_osacat=0&_from=R40 Ā If you go for that, try to find a seller who includes the velcro disks. The pads don't need loop patches as the pads alone stick to hook velcro pretty hard. Ā I might misinterpret the photo at your link and believe that the foam in the top pad is a pocket and can be customized? Or is it just to demo the 3 layers of shock absorbing foam? Ā Because being able to choose the thickness of the top pad would be great for our variable distance from eyes to top of the head, I can't customize my top pad and if I use it at all my eyes aren't in good line of sight, I only see upwards. So I had to remove that pad altogether. I don't know if I helped at all Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 I just used normal yellow foam, can get it in different thicknesses and cut into a leaf shape, there is a template in the forums. I just got a sheet of it 1/2" thick, I am using 3 pieces in my lid, two round pieces and the leaf, I keep them in with velcro so I can take them out and to wash Quote
Nicky Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Is it mandatory to have it shaped like a weed leaf? :/ Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 No it's just what they had in the movies, I find it fits better if cut as a leaf but you can have anything you want Quote
Nicky Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 A heart? I'll have a heart. Ā But the cleanability is important yes, we're rubbing sweaty hair, scalp, gel and conditioner stuff on that thing! Quote
Darth Hilarious Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Cleanability isn't a massive issue for the foam weed leaves. Ā They're very cheap, so you just rip them out and replace them once they get stinky. Quote
carbonitekid Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Cleanability isn't a massive issue for the foam weed leaves. Ā They're very cheap, so you just rip them out and replace them once they get stinky. Ā I never even bother to glue them in. Get the size right and they stay put by themselves. Real easy to remove then. Quote
bigironvault Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 I investigated this a lot an yellow foam so far been the best trooping feel for me believe it or not. Quote
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Yellow foam in the clover leaf style 1/2 think (like screen used). Ā Ā Also some use the baseball helmet padding foam works great (velcro in) Ā Ā G.I/ Swat helmet style helmet padding works well: Ā http://www.bradleyssurplus.com/used-g-i-a-c-h-mitch-helmet-pad-set.html Ā Ā Quote
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