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Posted

Hi all, I'm starting the part I dreaded for Centurion - the sniper plate. So this is where it's starting from, seem to be that I need to bend the outside edges of the sniper plate so that it conforms a little more to the greave itself. It flares about 1/2" bigger than it should be I think. Any thoughts on that?

 

Aslo what's the best way to glue this sucker on (so that it can survive a troop)?

 

S7nbrbm.jpg

 

Also this seems to be the right angle for me to attach it. What do you think?

 

G0BY9Mk.jpg

Posted

has anyone ever noticed that in all the photos of "original" armor, that the knee plate has fallen off?

 

I think it's probably most people's solution to bend the AP knee plate out of shape to do this.

 

then you will have to use a glue that's much stronger than e-6000.

 

this is exactly why I don't support the 'glued' knee in the first place.

Posted

well I have seen quite a few photos showing the knee plate fallen off.

that's a great photo showing at least 2 survived.

 

when I look at original knee plates, they are longer at the bottom.

giving more surface area.

Posted

This topic is perfect timing for me. I've spent most of the weekend re-fitting a new knee plate on my AP. Some people have managed to do a great job fitting the plate on AP armour but I have no idea how. No matter what, I can't get mine to sit straight or look very good at the sides. You might find this thread helpful Keith. From about page four I think.

 

http://www.whitearmo...showtopic=20646

 

Good luck.

Posted

well I have seen quite a few photos showing the knee plate fallen off.

Examples?

Posted

This topic is perfect timing for me. I've spent most of the weekend re-fitting a new knee plate on my AP. Some people have managed to do a great job fitting the plate on AP armour but I have no idea how. No matter what, I can't get mine to sit straight or look very good at the sides. You might find this thread helpful Keith. From about page four I think.

 

http://www.whitearmo...showtopic=20646

 

Good luck.

 

ingrid used plastic shims inside the plate from what she told me.

 

looks like a good idea to shim from the inside, and then it adds more surface area.

Posted

So basically looking at Ingrid's build, the only solution is shim and glue the crap out of it. I was afraid someone was going to say that.

Posted

I think the rivets are going to be done away with in the future for Centurion. Those shins look gross. Thats a compliment by the way :)

Posted

So I think I have a solution. I'm making a snap plate for the graves and the sniper plate right in the middle where I would have had to "shim" anyways to create a strong initial point of contact. Then glue in the sides. Let's see how this works.

Posted

So I think I have a solution. I'm making a snap plate for the graves and the sniper plate right in the middle where I would have had to "shim" anyways to create a strong initial point of contact. Then glue in the sides. Let's see how this works.

:popcorn:
Posted

Oh right! That was a failure. The snaps combined were "just" a little too thick. Like 1/8" ... gah. Back to shimming.

Posted (edited)

shims, snaps... oh... that's not good sounding.

 

I vote rivets.

 

not like centurion demands no attachment.

 

it just SUGGESTS glue.

 

and I vote that we never eliminate rivets.

 

so let's assign keith as our test for a no fail knee plate.

Lower Legs

For 501st approval:

  • Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
  • The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net
     

For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable):

  • Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.
     

 

this does not mean that you cannot have rivets or 'brads'

you can have them.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
Posted

Vern,

 

Have you ever built a shin with a glued on knee plate, or only used rivets? I'm asking because it sounds like you don't know what you're talking about.

Posted

Ingrid did a great job with some force and glueing the crap out of it. It sits a bit crooked but thats a common problem with AP. I changed it to another one. Just glued it left right and on top and the only issue is a slightly different color. E6000 could cope with the tension of my stressed ap plate without any trouble.

Posted

Good to hear you say that about the E6000 Sven because that's what I have just used.

Posted

Even my forearms are fine and due to my skinny arms they have immense tension but if you rough up the surface glue and clamp e 6000 is a good way to go.

Not perfect but a good way. Everybody has to find out whats best for himself.

I go with e 6000

Posted

On my EIB TK kit, which is AM, I only used E6000 to attach the sniper plate. No problems. No bits falling off. Not on the kit, anyway... :smiley-sw013:

Posted

Everyone is going to try and do what is suggested unless told otherwise. Look forward to the others to chime in.

Posted

Just do what most people do. Heat the plate gently to reshape if needed and glue it on. Ask anyone who has ever trooped with me. I test my suits to the limits and the glue I use has never let me down.

Posted

Yes it is mainly. If used correctly it is very powerful but the parts can be taken apart if needed.

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