johnnymac Posted February 9, 2009 Report Posted February 9, 2009 How long should I wait after spraying my helmet to hand paint the frown and ears. Do I need to wait the entire week for it to cure? Quote
TK-4510[501st] Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Posted February 9, 2009 Yes. I after 3 days handle with extreme care. You can actually leave finger prints if its not fully cured. Quote
johnnymac Posted February 10, 2009 Report Posted February 10, 2009 Sorry, one more question about paint. If one needs to give another coat of the white after 24 hours has passed, can this be done? Possibly after one week. (Completely cured). You mentioned that you tried 48 hours later and it went all crinkly. I'm just curious in case I want to touch it up later on down the road. Thanks! Quote
TK-4510[501st] Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Posted February 10, 2009 If your planning on repainting or adding another coat to it I would wait at least a couple of weeks. Thats why I say put the coats on 5 minutes apart to begin with. Quote
johnnymac Posted February 12, 2009 Report Posted February 12, 2009 For paint you will need a Satin Black Enamel. I place the helmet in my lap and turn it to the most comfortable position. Dip your brush and press down on the first strip and pull.......Fatten it up by applying more pressure as you pull. Stay on your guides (Stay an Target!!!!) I can't seem to find Testor's Satin Black Enamel. I've called around and they only seem to make flat or gloss. From reading around in the forum, it looks like everyone has their own preference. I found a Testor's Model Masters in "Classic Black". I'm going to give it a shot. There were 3 to choose from, Flat, Gloss, or Classic. -So I'm hoping it is a satin finish. Quote
TK-4510[501st] Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Posted February 13, 2009 What I have been using is Testors Model Master Semi Gloss Black. Quote
TD2253[501st] Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 What I have been using is Testors Model Master Semi Gloss Black. Hey Mike! Awesome tutorial on the TE2 helmet bro! Thanks! Now all I need is to get one! -Gene Quote
kiyotei[TK] Posted March 9, 2009 Report Posted March 9, 2009 Hey Mike, You wanna post a couple photos that are very close shots of the teeth. I would like to see how much you cut out and can't tell from the photos you've posted. Thanks. Quote
TK-4510[501st] Posted March 9, 2009 Author Report Posted March 9, 2009 Jim, Ask and you shall receive. The one with the painted frown is my personal TE2. The one without is the Move Along that I am working on. Also someone PM'd me about what other options they might have to fix their helmet. Here is a pic of the plastic welder I have been using. IT WORKS GREAT. A nice thin coat in the chin area keeps them from cracking Quote
Merugear Posted June 16, 2009 Report Posted June 16, 2009 Just a small question. This helmet looks rather thin. Is this always the case with TE2 and its armour? Cos I'm browsing around and would like to have a sturdy armour, even if it means cutting on screen accuracy. So can this thing keep up with the sturdiness of like a MRCE, or is it much more fragile? (Fragile never really works with me. Especially when it's expensive. Think Murphy's Law) Quote
TK-4510[501st] Posted June 16, 2009 Author Report Posted June 16, 2009 Because the TE2 helmets are Styrene they are more fragile than ABS or injected plastics like the MRCE. The armor is tough enough, but still fragile compared to thicker ABS options. Of course ABS yeilds much less detail as a trade off unless you go with a thinner ABS which is perceived as being weaker too. Good Luck Quote
Daetrin[Admin] Posted June 16, 2009 Report Posted June 16, 2009 I guess it depends on what you want to do with it. I could play a few downs of football in ABS armor and just abuse it (then again, it was my sandtrooper so the gouges were fine). The TE2 I certainly wouldn't do any stunts with it or abuse it, but would stand up well to normal trooping. I'm not sure I'd call the helmets fragile though. Fragile to me is a resin C6 clone helmet (ask me how I know). The tusks and bottom opening are prone to cracking but can be repaired with a little TLC. Again, I've had and seen a few crack there, but my garrison mate has his loaded up with fans, RomFX, etc. and does some serious trooping in his. As Mike said it's always a trade-off. Some people are just more comfortable in ABS knowing it will take more abuse. On the other hand, trimming HIPS is easier and it can easily be reinforced from the inside. Quote
Merugear Posted June 16, 2009 Report Posted June 16, 2009 I guess it depends on what you want to do with it. I could play a few downs of football in ABS armor and just abuse it (then again, it was my sandtrooper so the gouges were fine). The TE2 I certainly wouldn't do any stunts with it or abuse it, but would stand up well to normal trooping. I'm not sure I'd call the helmets fragile though. Fragile to me is a resin C6 clone helmet (ask me how I know). The tusks and bottom opening are prone to cracking but can be repaired with a little TLC. Again, I've had and seen a few crack there, but my garrison mate has his loaded up with fans, RomFX, etc. and does some serious trooping in his. As Mike said it's always a trade-off. Some people are just more comfortable in ABS knowing it will take more abuse. On the other hand, trimming HIPS is easier and it can easily be reinforced from the inside. Merugear votes for abuse I'll play it safe and stick with ABS. Sorry for the teeny weeny hijack of the post . Move along Quote
SuperTrooper Posted June 16, 2009 Report Posted June 16, 2009 Also keep in mind ABS helmets are also just as thin. My AP (ABS) was thinner than any TE2/TE/CAP/or TM I've seen. No matter who the maker is a face plate will always have thin spots. Quote
vecspeed12 Posted April 17, 2010 Report Posted April 17, 2010 I tried getting a bucket from guns but only email tag. I'd love to get a bucket from him. Quote
darthRivera[501st] Posted August 27, 2015 Report Posted August 27, 2015 Awesome job. Basically a tutorial is this treath. Quote
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