First ever E-11 build Doopy Doos full kit

[Potty Meister]

My doopy doos kit finally came! Now to figure out how in the world this thing works Looks like the a piece of the magazine was broken during shipping, but it should glue back together ok. I plan on picking up one of Evilboy's scope rails for this too, as I really suck at any sort of metal work.

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Here is the glue I plan on using. Should this be ok?

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Edited August 13, 2022 by gmrhodes13
link removed no longer working

[captsafe66[Admin]]

DevCon makes a good plastic epoxy that works great. What you have should work, try it on one part and let it cure, then stess test it a bit.

[Minuteman]

I thought the same about the scope rail.

But with a proper workbench and this tutorial:http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4697&pid=195195&st=0& it´s pretty easy.

Believe me, that is the cheaper version.

[Evilboy[501st]]

If this is your first resin build, then E6000 cement is the way to go, except for the repair. . it produces a solid connection, but if you are unhappy with the placement of a part, it can be removed and you can try again. You can find it at most hobby and art supply stores, like Micheal's or the like.

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Edited September 29, 2021 by gmrhodes13
link not working removed

[andyoda]

Go the Devcon 5 minute 2 part epoxy. It's the best out of all the glues and once set is extremely strong and almost unbreakable!

Edited August 7, 2012 by andyoda

[Potty Meister]

Thanks for the input on the glue! I've glued a few small pieces (including the broken piece) with what I already have and it seems to be holding really well. The only large piece I have on so far is the grip handle and all the small pieces that go on it. The glue sets in about five minutes and I will let it cure overnight. Sorry no pics....yet

[Potty Meister]

Making some progess. The glue I got feels really solid. So far I feel pretty good about it. I got almost all the small bits and pieces on. The "folding" stock has been glued and is drying elsewhere before I attach it to the main body.

 

I drilled out another hole since it was recommended by some. Pretty sure it will just get covered up anyway. Mostly, it was just for fun

 

I'm pretty sure I put the rear sight on backwards...hopefully that doesn't cause too much of a problem.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also drilled out the resin at the front of the barrel for the real screw head things...I might need to drill out a little more???

 

 

[bigironvault]

You can use a dremel sander to get nicer more even holes. The bolts wont sit well on the barrel tip way it is right now.

[Clamps[TK]]

^^^ it's true ^^^ I saw Keith do it in person! Good start Jay!

[Griffin-X[TK]]

On 8/7/2012 at 7:27 PM, Evilboy said:

If this is your first resin build, then E6000 cement is the way to go, except for the repair. . it produces a solid connection, but if you are unhappy with the placement of a part, it can be removed and you can try again. You can find it at most hobby and art supply stores, like Micheal's or the like.

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Just watch out for HOT temps. It can cause this glue to come apart.

Edited September 29, 2021 by gmrhodes13
link not working removed

[Potty Meister]

Attached the "folding" stock. I glued it in three places (where the rubber bands are) and it's holding great.

 

 

What is generally used to fill in this gap??

 

 

Now on to the scary scope rail! I think I'm going to attempt to make one myself and see how it goes. Hopefully I can find the right kind of metal strip at Lowes or something...

[Evilboy[501st]]

I used 2-part epoxy putty to fill that gap and then sanded before gluing the stock in to place. Much easier than doing it once it is attached...As for scope rails, PM Sent...

Edited August 14, 2012 by Evilboy

[Potty Meister]

OMG I made a scope rail! Having never attempted anything like this ever, I'm surprised at how not hard this is to do (not hard != easy). Took me a good chunk of the afternoon. If you can use a hacksaw and follow instructions, you should be able to get through making one of these.

 

 

View from the top and my backwards rear site (hadn't drilled the back hole yet)

 

I just put the strip in a vice, guided the long end down with one hand while pounding at the base with a hammer and it bent real easy. My dad has all the cool tools and stuff, so don't go thinking I'm some whiz with tools and such but this really isn't that hard.

 

This is what I used for the scope rail. Picked it up at Lowes.

 

This is for the hengstler bracket. It sucks I only need a few inches of this stuff...

 

 

Ok, now this is where things went south. After making the hengstler bracket all nice and pretty I started to screw it into the counter. I got one screw in fine, but the second one cracked the resin. I have since filled it in with some glue and should be salvageable. I'm just using normal wood screws.

 

 

I tried a smaller screw on the scope and it cracked as well. WTF? I'm thinking I'll just sacrifice some screen accuracy and forget the screws and just glue this sob on unless anyone has any suggestions. Help please!

[Dday[501st]]

Well, on my kit I drilled the holes to the exact width the screws ask for, it means they only get a small bite, but with a dab of CA glue inside, it's a done deal. The problem is with this stuff vs wood or something else, is it has 0 give. so when you screw into it, it's not like wood where the side gives away a little to make a bigger hole, it just stays exactly where it is. The other possibility is your mold is bubbles and doesn't have a lot of internal strength due to this. The droopy I have seen aren't bubbled at all compared to my resin version, so my guess is the hole is to small.

 

At this point, put some CA glue in the crack, clamp it together, then if needed add some filler and sand it down again. redrill the hole a little bigger and retry it.

[dm101[TK]]

Looking GOOD.

That stinks that one of your pieces was broken during shipping.

Any of the CA type glues will fix this.

Your rear sight should have little bumps on one half of the part. The little bumps face to the rear.

Regarding the huge gap in the folding stock. I used automotive Bondo. I originally used the 2-part Bondo. But have switched to the 1-part UV cure Bondo. Only problem is you need a bright sunny day. Hence the UV cure.

My build is here- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19872&st=20

One of these days (soon) I will get back to work on the directions and mods.

[Geaux Saints[TK]]

What glue did you end up going with?

[Potty Meister]

I used the glue I have in my first post, the epoxy cement. That stuff is rock solid. It looks like any sort of two part epoxy works great with these things.

 

I haven't gotten back to trying to put the scope rail assembly together again. I kind of like Dday's idea of drilling bigger holes and putting some glue in before screwing it in. I'm just a little nervous now about making more mistakes...this is one of the things I haven't really been able to find on the boards. How are people generally putting together the scope rail assembly? Looks like it's just screwed together to me, but I haven't seen and detailed photos or instructions on it. Maybe, I'm not looking hard enough???

[Dday[501st]]

Well, to be fair, it's not really my idea, I've seen it in other builds. So just something I liked from the way other people built

[Potty Meister]

Got the primer on. Sorry it's not a better pic. It was still wet.

 

[Potty Meister]

Okey doke. Made some progress on the ol' blaster today. I got the bolts at the front installed after some careful dremel work. They fit pretty well! I think I managed to salvage the scope and hengstler assembly. Time will tell. I drilled holes that were barely bigger than the screws I was using, put some glue in them, then put the screws in. The screws I used weren't very long. They probably just barely make it into the main part of the scope itself. Then I pulled out the paint and that's when I started getting giddy After priming everything, I put down a coat of hammered black, which has a glossy finish. After it dried, I sprayed a matte clear coat over it. Thanks Carlos (aka Solcar23) for your build thread. I've been referencing it a lot.

 

 

 

Waiting for first coat to dry...

 

 

very glossy indeed

 

 

 

 

after the clear coat

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the paint I used

 

 

 

 

The only thing I have left is to make a spring and attach the scope rail to the pipe. I will use a screw and some glue on the back. How is the front of the rail best secured? I'm thinking I'll just throw some glue on it. Any other recommendations? Also, what does the spring in the pipe attach to? Is it glued to back piece?? Just want to make sure it stays put.

[Dday[501st]]

The scope rail connects via a pressure tab in that very first barrel vent hold just before your t-tracks. It just slides in there, bend the front of the rail at such an angle that it won't slide out and use a dab of CA glue if you like as well.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good

[HawkTrooper]

What Derrek said... just bend the lower end of the scope rail's front a little bit forward and secure the rail with a screw in the back. Very solid.

[Potty Meister]

Scope rail attached (I hope permanently...) I'm really happy with the way this turned out.

 

 

pic of the screw I used before it gets painted black. I drilled a hole into the rear site, filled it with glue, then put the screw in.

 

the glue I used to help hold the front part of the scope rail down

 

mmmm pretty

 

in darman's holster.....and there's my lid

[Hemostat1976]

Nice job, kid. Now don't get cocky!