Thermal Detonator appearance

[Dutchtrooper[TK]]

I bought some clips for the thermal detonator from a vendor that posts on this site. I'm not sure if the current look is problematic or not, as it doesn't seem to look as accurate as I'd like. Do you think they wrap around awkwardly around my two inch conduit? It makes the plate that goes on the pipe face upwards, and I think it should face outwards.

 

I cut the end caps and top plate according to a "blueprint" image I had of the thermal detonator. Is it looking right? i haven't glued it yet.

 

PS sorry about flashing my whitey tighties... and no jokes about it being clipped on "on the wrong side"

Edited July 24, 2012 by Dutchtrooper

[Locitus[Admin]]

Could be that your tube is too small in diameter. Your clips should also sit closer to the end caps.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

is that an ATA tube?

[Dutchtrooper[TK]]

Could be that your tube is too small in diameter. Your clips should also sit closer to the end caps.

 

I was initially thinking the same thing. But 2" Diameter end caps came with the ATA kit. I can't imagine using a bigger pipe because of that.

 

is that an ATA tube?

 

Yes, it is an ATA tube. Here are the specs:

Pipe diameter is 2"

Pipe width is 7.5" wide

plastic control piece is 4.5" wide

end caps .75" wide

Edited July 24, 2012 by Dutchtrooper

[Locitus[Admin]]

I was initially thinking the same thing. But 2" Diameter end caps came with the ATA kit. I can't imagine using a bigger pipe because of that.

Yeah. Unless you get get a bigger tube, end caps and panel made for the bigger tube you're stuck.

[Dutchtrooper[TK]]

Are the specs for the thermal detonator arbitrary? I'm seeing lots of variation in my research. I'm under the impression I'd be able to get Centurion with my ATA kit based on my research during assembly. How concerned should I be about the thermal detonator and approval in your opinion?

Edited July 24, 2012 by Dutchtrooper

[Locitus[Admin]]

I don't think you should worry too much. There's no requirement on the size of the tube of the TD. But the accurate size is 68 mm outer diameter. What I would do is move the clips so they sit touching the end caps.

[carbonitekid]

ATA thermal det tube comes in the US size pipe whereas the clips appear to be made for the accurate UK size pipe which, as you may have guessed, is larger in diameter.

The ATA end caps and plate were sculpted specifically to fit the us size pipe generations back.

 

Perhaps you could un rivet/screw the metal clips, shorten them, rebend gently to correctly curve around the TD and drill and rivet/screw them again.

[Sonnenschein]

The orginal diameter (6.8 cm) is hardly available,so most settle for 2"(5 cm).

 

EIB or Centurion should'nt be affected as long as it looks good.

 

Maybe, some time in the future, the correct diameter willbe an issue for centurion

[Sonnenschein]

Oh my, Mathias and Matt (same name,btw) beat me to it!

[Dutchtrooper[TK]]

The orginal diameter (6.8 cm) is hardly available,so most settle for 2"(5 cm).

EIB or Centurion should'nt be affected as long as it looks good.

Maybe, some time in the future, the correct diameter willbe an issue for centurion

 

 

 

We will see. I agree, and hope it is not an issue. I'll move the clips out a bit. I have a ton of gray 2" pipe, so I think I could make a ton of these as long as I had the white plastic parts. I had to buy an 8 foot pipe, so I just started chopping 7.5" sections.

 

I found someone who has an ATA kit, and 2" diameter TD and achieved Centurion. Found this link from somewhere else on this site. Very good photos. Reference thermal detonator photos (106-111)

ATA Armor 2012 by Gazmosis

 

PS: You guys ROCK for the prompt replies! Planning on having my armor done for the Detroit Maker Faire this weekend. Wish me luck!

Edited July 24, 2012 by Dutchtrooper

[Locitus[Admin]]

Good luck!

 

I wish we had maker fairs in Sweden...

[Sonnenschein]

Good luck!

 

I wish we had maker fairs in Sweden...

 

Please enlighten me: What's a "maker fair? A huge armor party, perhaps?

[Locitus[Admin]]

 

 

Please enlighten me: What's a "maker fair? A huge armor party, perhaps?

No, just a big fair for people who build crazy cool things in their home or garage. There´s lots on google to see.

[TK Keith[TK]]

I recently had a similar problem with my ATA detonator and metal clips. The white button plate on the detonator would have been pointing too far up. I ended up trimming a bit off the end of the metal clips so that the white button plate would be able to face more outwards.

[Scootch[TK]]

Interesting thread and nice work by all.

I'd like to clarify a couple things for anyone interested. First up YES a person with the desired diameter pipe (Tubing) a bench vise, and ball peen hammer can manipulate the aluminum straps in the desired configuration. Just takes holding your mouth right.

 

In my quest for "The Perfect Thermal Detonator" I have made these discoveries........

To get a 6.8cm or 68mm pipe diameter use 2" schedule 40 PVC couplings. Their outer diameter is 68mm The TE ROTJ Thermal Detonator is this size. TE utilized a six pole terminal block with two 3/4" fender washers held in place with a visible screw.

The 2" pipe Thermal Detonators work best for Sandtrooper field pack mortar tubes. If you look closely you will notice many of these resemble the Mike Harrison and Crashmann design. This utilizes a six pole terminal block and a stack of two to three fender washers with a visible screw holding them in place.

Recently I made my own Thermal Detonator assembly and have only to make a few slight adjustments before I am 100% satisfied with it. The pipe's outside diameter being 7.3CM or 73mm. or 2-7/8". I came up with this while looking at screen grabs and thinking about what I had heard in the past regarding canvas belts being 3" width. I solved my problem by utilizing 2-1/2" schedule 40 PVC and making new forming bucks from this material. I too utilized the six pole terminal block and a stack of 3/8" washers which seem to have the best outer diameter but may require drilling out to 1/2" inner diameter for the best effect.

Although I used too narrow a piece of aluminum for my straps, compare the cannister itself to the screen captures:

 

Screen trooper:

[Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/eSzoFwC.jpg)

 

Scootch:

 

Screen Dudes:

 

Apologies if this seems like a rude butt in and/or off topic. Just wanted to clarify things a bit, get the basic info out, and hope it helps someone....

[Dutchtrooper[TK]]

I recently had a similar problem with my ATA detonator and metal clips. The white button plate on the detonator would have been pointing too far up. I ended up trimming a bit off the end of the metal clips so that the white button plate would be able to face more outwards.

 

I'm thinking I might have to go this route or cough up another fifty some dollars for new plastic and tube.

What did you use to trim them? hand saw? nickel snips, tin snips, Dremmel?

[theisaac]

Is Jesse still making clips? I thought I saw a post saying he was not doing them anymore. I ask because thats the last thing I need to finish my build.

Isaac

[Dutchtrooper[TK]]

I was emailing him today. Seem like his operation was fully functional.

 

I took a C clamp (UK calls them G clamps) and tightened the clip all around the pipe so the clip lines up with the top horizontal edge of the pipe. The pipe no longer hangs so low.

 

I plan to cut the clips just after the inside hole and drill another hole closer to the clip itself. A metal saw wasn't working that well, but a tin snips works awesome.

 

Bending and cutting the clips will give me

• the tight appearance of the clip onto the belt,

• right clip sizing for 2" diameter,

• and the TD control piece facing outwards instead of upwards

Edited July 25, 2012 by Dutchtrooper