Helmet Inside Painting

[Boba_Skywalker3]

Alright, I have been using this Rust-Oleum on the inside of ear pieces (for testing purposes) before I start spraying the inside of the helmet. When the paint drys, it turns out really bad. Am I applying this paint correctly or should I be using different paint and how would I apply it?

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2021 by gmrhodes13
photo updated gmrhodes13 2021

[Beren[501st]]

How old is your paint? What type of armor is it?

 

I used Krylon brand spray paint and did not have any trouble.

[Boba_Skywalker3]

I have ATA and I just bought the paint 2 weeks ago from Lowe's.

[Mongoose[TK]]

I used a truck bed liner spray on the inside of my one helmet. Worked really good. It dried a nice dull black and E6000 adheres to it nicely.

Edited June 18, 2012 by Pfneisl

[Boba_Skywalker3]

Do you have a picture of what it looks like?

[iconoclasta_88[501st]]

Did you wash off with water and soap the chemicals use for de-moulding?

 

Most makers use some kind of substances to make de-moulding easier. You must wash all the plastic parts specially on the inside to make sure no chemical leftovers stay on them. Those chemicals prevent any paint to stay on the plastic.

 

 

Other than that... you could prepare the plastic for paint with a little sanding, fine grit sand paper and even use a coat of primer if you really want better results. And go with several thin layers instead of one thick layer.

 

I only wash the parts and then go with paint directly over the plastic and it works fine.

 

Saludos.

Edited June 18, 2012 by iconoclasta_88

[Beren[501st]]

... and you're not holding the can too close to the armor or making the paint too thick??? Maybe you just have a bad can of paint... Try using it on the back of a street sign.

[Boba_Skywalker3]

Alright, thank you! I did wash off the chemicals on the inside and I still get these results. I will try and use primer and do many thin layers.

Edited June 18, 2012 by Boba_Skywalker3

[Mongoose[TK]]

Now I hate painting. Haven't had much luck in the past. So when I heard of using a can of truck bed liner I jumped on it. Doesn't look too bad. Besides, no one but me will see it. Except most of the FISD now. Good luck on the rest of your build!

 

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Edited January 23, 2021 by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021

[27555[501st]]

Anyone have experience with Plasti-Dip Spray? I have two cans I wanted to use on inside of my helmet before I cut it.

[inglorious trooper]

i had a bad experience using a type of enamel spray paint,just didnt take!

i swapped to satin black and it worked pefectly,hope that helps!!!

[TK_LEPER]

Here's a few tips for using spray paints.

 

1. Always sand the plastic, it gives the paint/primer something to hold onto.

 

2. Always use primer. Rustoleum makes a great plastic primer. Even when giving my paint jobs a second coat days later I use this stuff. It works!

 

3. Warm up your cans in hot water before use. Shaking alone is ok, but this little trick helps the paint flow a lot better. Giving you a more consistent paint job.

 

4. Shake the can for at least a minute before using. And keep shaking during breaks.

 

5. Avoid the old fashion spray tips. Rustoleum has a new design that doesn't clog or spatter like the old spray tips did.

 

6. Avoid painting on wet, hot or humid days. The moisture can get trapped in there and screw up your paint. Wait till it's a bit cooler and dryer outside.

 

7. Use a series of lighter coats, starting with the primer. You only need a light dusting of primer, give it 15 minutes to cure. Then light coats of spray paint 4-5 minutes apart.

 

8. keep the can about 10-12" from the surface. You will be less likely to get paint runs and drips it you stay back further.

 

9. Don't spray Paint when it's windy out. You'll waste your half you paint to the wind, and you'll only have a partially done paint job.

 

10. Don't mix your brands. If your using a Rustoleum Primer, stick to the same brand of paint.

 

That's about it. I hope it helps. And remember, if you do get flaws... you can always let it dry, sand it, and re paint it. Wet sandpaper is your friend! Good luck!

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Edited January 23, 2021 by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

why paint the inside of the ears?

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

why paint the inside of the ears?

 

I think he was just using it to test the primer where it won't be seen.

 

Thanks for those tips, Jesse, they'll help when I'm destroying I mean painting my clone armor.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

temperatures are key as well as airflow in the drying area.

 

in michigan I'm sure you'd need to warm the paint.

 

the temp of the paint and the surface are key to good coverage.

 

keep it light... it looks like you blasted the paint on.

Edited June 19, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Scott - TK3105[501st]]

Acrylic is the best paint to use. You can get away without using a primer as long as you lightly sand the area first. Goes on nicely and dries quickly.

[bobojuice]

At minimum you want to wash the inside of your bucket off with soap and water. If you touch it you'll feel a greasy residue, that's what you want to remove. Remember the inside isn't that important so if it chips or comes off in a couple of places it's not a big deal. I never prime the inside because it really doesn't see too much action aside from my face going in it. You just want to get the majority of the inside dark so the little tykes can't see your face when they look up at you.

[Boba_Skywalker3]

Thanks for the help!!!

[Potty Meister]

I put plasti-dip on the inside of mine. Seems to work ok. Went on without any problems. But I just did it, so not sure how it will work out in the long run.