dm101 Doopys E11 Blaster Build

[dm101[TK]]

MODIFICATIONS TO RESIN PARTS-

 

Item #2 and #3 FOLDING STOCK (front and rear)

I cut out the dimples and the open slot on the Doopy’s with two tools:

**The Dremel and the cutting bit (approx. 1/8†diameter)

**A drill with a Forstner bit

1. Glue part # 2 and #3 together.

2. You can fill in the gap where the two parts come together now (I used Bondo) or you can do this before you begin to paint.

3. Measure the holes to be drilled. (see drawing for spacing, and starting edge to measure from) The Sterling holes measure .42†diameter. I could not find a flat bottom .42†diameter drill. I used a 7/16†Forstner bit.

4. The partial hole under the folding stock butt plate was tough to do. I carefully used the Dremel and the cutting tool bit. (Plus Bondo when I slipped and cut out too much.)

5. The Forstner bit has a pointy pilot tip. I had to fill in the pilot holes with Bondo.

[dm101[TK]]

MODIFICATIONS TO RESIN PARTS-

 

Item #4 HENGSTLER COUNTER

Remove the bumps on the Doopy’s resin cast that represent the counter and the reset button. (sorry I deleted the photo of the Doopy’s resin HENGSTLER before I made this instruction) I used a belt sander with a coarse belt to do the big work, then switched to a fine belt for the finish work. The goal is to have a flat smooth surface.

1. Make a Clear Plastic Lens- I used a sheet of 1/16†thick clear plastic. ( I bought this at Lowes) Cut out a rectangle the size of the HENGSTLER face (approximately 1†x 2â€).

2. I had some scrap 1/8†thick white plastic. I used this to make a reset button. The approximate size was 7/8†x 1/4†x 1/8â€.

3. I used my computer and Adobe Illustrator to make the counter. I printed it out on a laser jet printer. I then cut it to size.

4. Take the printed paper counter. I used rubber cement. Glue printed counter to face of HENGSTLER.

5. I line up the clear plastic lens and carefully marked the area for the clear section with tape. In the photo is a picture of the lens with only the primer coat.

6. I used E6000 glue and glued the clear lens to the HENGSTLER face making sure my clear lens window lined up with my printed counter. I chose E6000 glue over AC or Super Glue because Super Glue can make some types of clear plastic fog up. Next glue on the reset button.

7. I went back with the belt sander and trimmed up the edges after the glue set.

[Evilboy[501st]]

Once I get my TX/TK # I am planning on doing that with my Doopys as well...

[Mogwai[TK]]

Great Mod with the Hengstler. I think I try that myself!

[dm101[TK]]

Thanks guys-

I spent a lot of time (at work) thinking about how to improve the Doopy’s Hengstler.

I thought this was the less painful idea I came up with. (you DO NOT want to see my other ideas, very complicated and $$$$)

 

Craig

dm101

[rhapsodyred99[TK]]

you dont have that counter as a file you can post do you?

 

I may want to do that to my Hyperfirm, and printing yours will be easier than my trying to get one right since I have no skills there at all.

[ZeroRoom[TK]]

This is an awesome detail oriented tutorial Craig.

 

I love your work with the diagrams. First class.

[dm101[TK]]

Sorry- I have a lot more to share with my blaster build.

My armor showed up so I am spending all my time on that.

I will get back to posting more details when my armor is good to go.

 

Here is my attempt to add the image of the counter. I can make the numbers anything you desire.

[jkno]

I like the way you added the numbers on the Hengstler, really cool!

[Starsky]

1138 would be a good number to use.

[dm101[TK]]

This is an awesome detail oriented tutorial Craig.

 

I love your work with the diagrams. First class.

 

Thanks- my long term goal is to (A.) put all the modifcations into a PDF and post it (B.) create the missing assembly directions with drawings and dimensions, and post that as a PDF. May take me some time, but it will be done. Working on my armor now...so that is sucking up all my time.

 

Craig

dm101

[ivanhoe13]

Brilliant!!!!!! had this kit for over a year and still unmade as you have show the way I shall follow cheers and many thanks from the UK .

[Geaux Saints[TK]]

How is the feel and weight of the Doopy kit?

[dm101[TK]]

The Doopy's is light weight and pretty well balanced.

The real sterling I have weighs 8+ pounds. I would hate to carry that arround all day.

[Geaux Saints[TK]]

The Doopy's is light weight and pretty well balanced.

The real sterling I have weighs 8+ pounds. I would hate to carry that arround all day.

 

Does Droopy's have SOME good weight to it? How about compared to Hasbro's toy?

[Locitus[Admin]]

Yes, it has a nice weight to it.

[bigironvault]

Does Droopy's have SOME good weight to it? How about compared to Hasbro's toy?

 

As good as you're gonna get. If you get the real scopes and counter, adds significant weight to it.

[dm101[TK]]

TRUE - I forgot about the scope and counter when mentioning the weight. But still 100 times lighter then the real deal.

[dm101[TK]]

MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT-

 

SPRING

The Doopy’s resin kit does not come with a bolt return spring. I have seen numerous methods to make this spring. Check out some of the other build threads. One of the more popular methods is the wire coat hanger and a drum stick. Cut the wire hanger and wrap around drum stick (or some other round object that is the proper diameter, like a dowel rod etc…) I was at my local ACE Hardware store looking for some screws in the bulk screw isle. In that isle they also sold springs. I bought the #62 Ace spring. The important thing is that the outside diameter of your spring is a bit smaller than the inside diameter of your breach or barrel. I stretched out the spring to give the wraps more open space. I then cut it to my required length.

 

[bigironvault]

This is an excellent build.

[vader74]

MODIFICATIONS TO RESIN PARTS-

 

Item #2 and #3 FOLDING STOCK (front and rear)

I cut out the dimples and the open slot on the Doopy’s with two tools:

**The Dremel and the cutting bit (approx. 1/8†diameter)

**A drill with a Forstner bit

1. Glue part # 2 and #3 together.

2. You can fill in the gap where the two parts come together now (I used Bondo) or you can do this before you begin to paint.

3. Measure the holes to be drilled. (see drawing for spacing, and starting edge to measure from) The Sterling holes measure .42†diameter. I could not find a flat bottom .42†diameter drill. I used a 7/16†Forstner bit.

4. The partial hole under the folding stock butt plate was tough to do. I carefully used the Dremel and the cutting tool bit. (Plus Bondo when I slipped and cut out too much.)

5. The Forstner bit has a pointy pilot tip. I had to fill in the pilot holes with Bondo.

you can grind up a drill bit flat to make flat bottomed holes just have to have the land of the drill angled back for clearence

[dm101[TK]]

Robert- You are correct. I was lucky and found these Forstner bits. If I did not find them I was either going to use a modified spade bit or use my works bench grinder to grind a flat bottom on a twist drill bit.

[kaa1304[TK]]

What a thread.

 

I got my doopydoos yesterday and did exactly the same thing - took it all out and wondered where the instructions were!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

No instructions but some really good info found looking through the fisd builds

[dm101[TK]]

What a thread.

 

I got my doopydoos yesterday and did exactly the same thing - took it all out and wondered where the instructions were!

 

I am working on making the directions right now. I also have a few more modifications to post.

I usually do this at work, because that is where the PC software is.

Sadly we are mega busy right now. So my job is getting in the way of completeing the instructions. Darn you job.

It is really not that bad to build once you figure out what all the parts are.

The tricky things are the two crecent shape peices (where to place them) and the rear sight. (rear sight has the little notches on the half round bits. The notches face towards the rear.