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Posted

After wanting a real Sterling for a while I took the plunge and recieved this in the post today

004cvd.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

After a bit of a clean up I decided the first job I would tackle would be to shorten the mag. First I took it apart and marked with a pencil where I wanted to cut

 

002sat.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

After cutting I put it in a vice and used a hand file to make the two thinner sides of the mag shorter so it would leave the two longer sections so I could form the lips to hold on the end cap

 

004xfx.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

After some fine filing this is what I was left with

 

005aht.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

I replaced the inner spring and slid the cap over and this is how it looked

 

007bm.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

Job done

 

008tqu.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

I will update this thread as soon as I start the next stage of the build which will probably be the scope rail. Thank you for looking :)

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Posted

I'm with Vern - :popcorn:

Looking awesome so far Rob - nice work with bending the edges on the cut down mag :duim:

 

This is going to be good.

Posted (edited)

The real deal simply looks stunning, waiting for more :)

 

Rob send me a pm if you still need one Hengstler for your project!!

 

Jens

Edited by Eldrik
Posted

I can't decide on what width scope rail to make. I was going to go with the 20mm as I prefer the look of it to the 10mm. What about doing a 15mm one? What sort of sizes did the screen used Sterlings have? Also, on my pipe build I used bar that was 3mm thick. Should I use that again or go thinner? Decisions decisions.

Posted (edited)

3/4" sorry mate!

only way to go!

 

the width of the rail should be just a little smaller than the rear foot of the scope's width.

the scope foot will overhang just a tad..

the scope's rear foot should align with the folding stock swivel.

 

like real!

 

stellar job on the magazine. I did the same thing with a hacksaw and a dremel wheel.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
Posted

Thank you Paul. It's good to have you watching. I have managed to get hold of some TCC capacitors for the power cylinders so if anyone wants some just let me know.

Posted

I recieved my lovely T track from Marv today. This is the part of the build that I have been dreading as I have never been able to get the hang of it :angry: . I gave the boiling water method a shot first but wasn't quick enough to get the bend done before the track cooled so I found that the lighter method worked best for me.

001nxay.jpg

By null at 2012-06-01

 

I then roughly shaped the bends with a sharp knife so that the fitted into the barrel holes

004ims.jpg

By null at 2012-06-01

 

After marking where to bend the other end of the track and shaping it I sanded down the track with 1000 grit wet and dry paper then 2000 grit to make a nice shape. This is probably a very long way to go about it but as I said, I'm rubbish at this bit so found that this is the best way for me to get a decent result.

 

005hsj.jpg

By null at 2012-06-01

 

The finished track doesn't look too bad ( I hope. Please tell me if it does )

It does sit nice and close to the barrel along the length which I was pleased about at least.

Two down, four more to go :blink:

 

007mwx.jpg

By null at 2012-06-01

Posted

Looks good! Looks better than when I did it for my blaster.

 

It's harder than it looks.

Posted

Your t-tracks look great! :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley: Look on some screen shots with ANH blasters and you can see they look quite bad. :D

Posted

Thank you Sergiu. I still can't decide on the best way to fit the rear of the scope rail. Does anyone know how they were fitted on screen? I know that some had a bend in them and were screwed to the barrel in front of the rear sight but I would like to fit mine into the rear sight.

Posted

I changed the way my rail is connected too, I added a screw as close as possible to the MR version. Though I won't be taking off my MR blaster anymore, I hate its fragile mirror base.

 

I've seen this picture below, the same way is conencted on my Sterling and on MR.

 

 

 

 

 

30kukvp.png

Posted

Hi,

 

I believe from screenshots that they removed the rear sight and fixed the rail under the bolt of the rear sight.

 

I tried to copy the look on my not fully finished build

 

th_07aa3d40.jpg

 

One can turn the E11 up side down there is no movement of the scope rail and the mounted parts.

 

 

Posted

Thank you Jens. Very interesting. Does that method not make the rail sit too close to the body of the gun?

Posted

IIRC the MR indeed has the back sighting removed - have to look at mine when getting home (and I really hate taking it off, since is on the top shelf and that mirror base is fragile as hell). But personally I prefer the sighting left in place.

Posted

Well , still searching for a sterling here in germany, which seems nearly impossible.

Butr your build looks realy nice so far.

Posted

Thank you Stefan. Keep searching. I'm sure you will find one eventually and it will be worth it.

I finished up my T tracks today.

001iic.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

 

My next job was to make the scope rail using Billhag's template as a guide. I went with the 2mm thick flat bar in the end. I used 3mm for my pipe build and I thought it looked a little too chunky. I like how the thinner bar looks.

002rxz.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

I went with steel as it shouldn't sag as much as aluminium and I want to weather it once painted and let the steel show through in some places. I took some time to get the curvature right so that it sits nicely against the barrel

004qkuaff.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

003cyat.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

*EDIT* I wasn't holding the back down all the way. It does sit even. Honest :P I think it sits nice and even along the length of the barrel and looks to be about the right distance away.

005rbl.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

I decided to leave the rear scope in place. I just have to drill a small hole in the rail to fix it down.

006nxp.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

I suppose the next job is to get a scope and fit it so that I can then make a bracket for the Hengster and make sure that it is positioned correctly.

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