Meanders TK Build [*ATA]

[meanders[TK]]

Making a start on my 3rd costume to join the ranks of the shiney whites! Thought I'd share this here.

 

 

I've been slowing slowing for a few weeks now, and not expecting this to be a fast build. Something to keep me occupied during the winter months, huddled over a fire, whittling away bits of ABS

 

I've been to trimming away slowly. The score and snap method is working well with the trusty old craft knife. But for chewing away big chunks at a time the Lexan curved scissors are the ducks nuts. Got mine from a local RC racing shop.

 

 

And the collection of ABS offcuts is growing. Going to experiment a bit (on the offcuts ) with the ABS/Acetone mix to see how effective an adhesive it is.

 

Trimmed the left forearm and bicep back to where it fits and where a 16mm wide cover strip can fit over the joins. Seems to fit ok and I can still scratch my head

 

 

 

With little imagination I can see the rest of the suit in place

[meanders[TK]]

I've also started trimming and test fitting the shins. They look to be the right length. And with room for a 22mm cover strip on the front and 25mm strip on the back as suggested it fits fine....until I try it with the boots and its a bit too snug about the boot ankle.

 

So my question is, how high should the shin ankle (the bottom of the shin piece) sit on the boot?

 

This image from the tutorials show them relatively high up. But in other reference shots I've seen them a bit lower.

 

 

I could probably make the back cover strip a bit wider (40mm?) and it should sit comfortably at that level. My concern is that when trooping the shin will ride up above the top of the boot, and get stuck there. Are there any tricks to keeping the shins down?

 

Any thoughts?

[Jabob]

No idea's on how to stop the shins riding up unfortunately, mine are pretty snug. Good to see you getting in some TK champ!

[NoVATie[Admin]]

Some troopers let the shins ride a little higher than others especially if they have long legs and want to cover some of the black undersuit that would otherwise show through between the top of the shin and their knee. If you're 6' or under you'll probably be okay with them low on the boots. I'd see where how they fit after the front cover strip and go from there. Don't forget about our tutorials http://www.whitearmo.../Tutorials-legs

[meanders[TK]]

No idea's on how to stop the shins riding up unfortunately, mine are pretty snug. Good to see you getting in some TK champ!

Yeah but your suit would be molded on by now after all that walking

 

Some troopers let the shins ride a little higher than others especially if they have long legs and want to cover some of the black undersuit that would otherwise show through between the top of the shin and their knee. If you're 6' or under you'll probably be okay with them low on the boots. I'd see where how they fit after the front cover strip and go from there. Don't forget about our tutorials http://www.whitearmo.../Tutorials-legs

Thanks. Definitely under 6'. I figured getting the front strip attached would be the best place to start. And I've been studying the tutorials intently. They've been a great help.

[meanders[TK]]

Started working on the helmet with a few detours . Obviously following the PandaTrooper build thread which is fantastic.

 

One thing I wanted to check was if I could actually fit my noggin in the bucket, and if I could fit it with the glasses as well.

 

Eventually got the brow sitting where I wanted it above the eye line.

 

 

However there was not much overlap at the bottom of the face and cap plates. That would make fitting the bottom ear bolt difficult. And on closer inspection it looked like the brow and trim was not on the same level as the ridge on the back of the cap.

 

 

Looks like I might have trimmed a bit too much off the cap brow Probably a bit too much off the sides of the face plate as well but I was just following the mold lines there.

 

Anyway I could raise the brow to close the gap but I was never a fan of the high brow trooper

 

So, with a bit of extra ABS from the trimmings, I was able to extend the cap brow line. And the brow trim covers the seam. Only my doctor and I ever need to know the truth

 

 

So I can keep the brow positioned pretty much in the same place....

 

 

... but with much better closure at the sides.

 

 

Crisis averted It wasn't a full disaster (and I didn't get the to the crying stage) but it could have been worse.

 

And on the question of the bucket fitting. Yes it does. With glasses? Not so much. Plan A to deal with this didn't work as you can see....

 

 

I'll need to explore this issue further

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good my ATA lid was the same on the right side, did a bit of repositioning and still wasnt happy but I did find that the bottom of the ear covers most of the bottom section and was you have the S trim on aswell then you can't see any gap

[Mogwai[TK]]

Looks similar to my ATA Helmet. Even the Brow looks like mine!

[meanders[TK]]

Did a lot of work on the face plate yesterday.

 

 

To get the teeth nice and square, small strips of sandpaper. Or as I like to call it - Trooper-Floss.

 

 

The final eyes trimmed. Pretty happy with that.

 

 

And the nice shiney square teeth. All correct and accounted for.

 

 

Started work on the ears. The ATA kits comes with two pair, just in case, but I'm still on the first pair trying to get the gap closed.

[Potty Meister]

Looking good! I actually think the teeth could be opened up a bit more on the tops and bottoms. Just my opinion.

[meanders[TK]]

Yes, some other people have made that comment to me as well. I still left a fair amount of material behind the teeth so I can take more out, to get them looking more like these reference pics.

 

Thanks

[meanders[TK]]

OMG! The ears! I started off going great guns getting right ear into shape ... until I realised it was the left ear But I think I hadn't gone so far as to be unrecoverable. From then on it was sanding here and there to get them into shape.

 

Some 360 grit sandpaper wrapped around some 48mm PVC pipe I had in the shed was a good match for the cheek tube curvature, so I could get them pretty smooth.

 

Here's where they are now, just held in with the top screw. The gaps at the front in particular will close up when the other screws are in place. The gaps at the back of the ears are not as tight. But I suspect there might need to be a few more adjustments once all the screws are tightened up and things flex a bit more.

 

The only query I have is whether or not its worth trimming off even more to make the ears a bit more slim. But they look OK to me.

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I think they look good, don't like them too slim, keep up the good work

[meanders[TK]]

Time to add a few more obligatory build photos. This is taking a loooong time but in the few hours I get here and there its great fun

 

Once the biceps and forearms were assembled (using the inner strips first) there were gaps on the arm openings where the two halves meet. They looked something typically like this.

 

 

Even if you try to be as accurate as you can with the trimming you'll still get gaps.

 

I made up some acetone ABS paste to fill the gaps as seen in the finished biceps...

 

 

and forearms....

 

 

Nice and seamless returns. And I think there's sufficient lack of return on the front of the forearms. We'll see what it looks like when finished.

 

The PVC cement (Protek brand from Bunnings) is doing the job with strong bonds. You only get one chance to get it right so slow and steady is the best approach.

 

Here's a tip I discovered when putting the cover strips on. Some masking tape on the back of the strip, besides not getting confused over which side to apply the glue, can be made in to a handle to make sure you don't accidentally get glue on the fingers and everywhere else. The masking tape on the sides is there for guidance in placing the strip.

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good, every bit add up in the end, just keep plugging along

[meanders[TK]]

Starting to fit the thigh ammo pack. The placement looks good to me, but would appreciate any feedback. As I understand it, the rivets should go where the clamp pads are currently sitting.

 

 

Excuse the masking tape on the front. In the process of filling a noticeable gap.

[LePaul]

Thank you Thank you for HIGH RES pics!

 

I am just starting and saw your fore arms and how they line up...mine are the same way. 

 

Asides your "magic paste", what should one do?  Trim some more?  Or try to make edge size level and shim away?

[meanders[TK]]

Are you talking about the ends of the arms where the two halves line up like this?

I think it I was doing it again I'd pay more attention to this part of the trimming and try to get the gaps closer. 

 

But there's also some cases where even if there is zero gap the edges don't line up (one might be further out than the other - more noticeable on the tops of the thighs). In that case I've used the ABS paste to smooth across.

 

I don't own a sealing iron but I would guess that would also be an option bend the returns in to get them to join.

 

So how's your build going @LePaul? I looked at your WIP thread but it hasn't been updated for a while

Edited June 12, 2013 by meanders

[LePaul]

I just updated it yesterday!

 

I've been very busy with R2-D2 and all of our charity work over the past few weeks....plus making some tweaks...

 

http://paulsr2d2.blogspot.com/

 

ABS paste?

 

So don't mess with the edges too much, just shim?

[meanders[TK]]

ABS paste! Its wonderful stuff and because its just made up from your own armor off-cuts it matches perfectly.

 

I think for those small end edges the paste would be a better approach than trying to put a small shim behind it. 

 

Your R2 looks amazing! How 'autonomous' is he? We've got a droid builder here in Adelaide and R2 is pretty popular wherever he appears. 

[LePaul]

Thank you....well I would love to let R2 be quite autonomous at some point but my experience has been it won't be anytime soon.  I work at a medical center and we do pediatric visits with sick kids from time to time as well as numerous local charities that are kid-related.  Kids are always jumping in front of R2, poking, sticking fingers into doors that are motorized and so on.  I use a 2.4ghz remote (same used for RC helicopters) for the foot and dome motors and I have a Netbook inside R2 connected to a 15w amplifier connected to small car door speakers.  I wrote the software so that a Windows XBOX Game Pad can trigger the sounds/music/sound effects  I went with the Windows XBOX since they are abundant at any PC gaming store.  I've already broken two so having something that available is a big deal!

[meanders[TK]]

The sniper knee plate is attached and the thigh ammo pack is attached so that almost  wraps it up for the legs.

 

Got the ab/kidney/butt all fitted and just making up the elastics for the snaps. Will post a progress picture when that's done.

[Locitus[Admin]]

 

Starting to fit the thigh ammo pack. The placement looks good to me, but would appreciate any feedback. As I understand it, the rivets should go where the clamp pads are currently sitting.

 

That would be a correct assumption. The right kind of rivets to hold the pack are cap rivets.

[meanders[TK]]

Half way there and everything seems to be in the right place and proportion.

 

 

Nothing holding the thighs up yet. Planning on using a belt and high density elastic strapping there.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I use a belt but found that tended to pull down a bit so I added a set of braces too, problem solved. Looking good