Trevor's TK build CAUTION: question heavy! [*ATA]

[Dutchtrooper[TK]]

Thanks, It looks like you have to bend the plastic, or at least put some pressure on them to get them to line up flush!

It stings because you don't want to cut off too much. The plastic strips helps cover up any gaps.

[bigtrev503]

OK I have gotten absolutely frustrated to the max extreme!!!!!!!! I can't push any further, I don't have enough magnets and they're expensive as heck. I don't have any power tools or access to them. I have almost reached the point of throwing this hyper expensive box of plastic out the window. I am just stuck. Any local dudes out there in the Portland, OR area? I have reached my wits end and you , the 501st, are my only hope!!

 

Plz message me on here or on the cloud city garrison forum. PLZ!! Thanks you guys!!

[Dutchtrooper[TK]]

OK I have gotten absolutely frustrated to the max extreme!!!!!!!! I can't push any further, I don't have enough magnets and they're expensive as heck. I don't have any power tools or access to them. I have almost reached the point of throwing this hyper expensive box of plastic out the window. I am just stuck. Any local dudes out there in the Portland, OR area? I have reached my wits end and you , the 501st, are my only hope!!

 

Plz message me on here or on the cloud city garrison forum. PLZ!! Thanks you guys!!

• Go to 501st.com and find your local Garisson... there should be a member willing to meet up with you and show you their armor/how they did some things. I found a guy 10 minutes away form my house, and he was very open to me stopping by to see his armor and take reference photos.
  
• You don't need power tools. For gluing this together, a lexan scissors, carpet knife, long ruler, sandpaper, and clamps should get you far. It took from November-July to finish mine, and I thought I'd have it done in a couple of weeks. Boy was I wrong.
  
• For what it's worth, I didn't use magnets at all for my build - but I did use strips of wood and heavy duty (not the plastic) clamps from the hardware store. Since I didn't have a lot, I had to do them on glued side at a time while the other side was masking taped (for placement.)
  

Edited September 13, 2012 by Dutchtrooper

[Jancelot[TK]]

I know patience isn't the way of the dark side, but do your best! I've been working on my build off an on for 10 months. I took breathers when needed and came back when I had the energy.

 

The only power tools I used were a drill and a heat gun. The latter was a luxury and not really needed.

 

As for magnets, I got by with about $20 worth of them. That meant slower progress as I would only be able to glue one or two pieces at a time. And with inside support shims that meant each piece had to go through 2 waves of gluing.

 

Dutchtrooper's suggestions are spot-on as well.

 

Cheers and stay on target.

[bigtrev503]

Thank you all for the words of encouragement!!! I have been in contact with my local garrison since before I joined this forum and am currently in the process of trying to organize an armor party.

 

You guys have been very supportive and I appreciate it!! Thanks bunches and look forward to seeing this kit finished in the next month or so!!

[bigtrev503]

Lol that last post was a bit ambitious, but I am slowly getting there. I apologize for cluttering the boards with questions. I will post all current and future questions here in my build thread to keep it tidy. Look forward to me posting here with my concerns. 

 

Here goes progress pics!

 

Bells got the straps:

 

 

 

 

 

Some feedback on my sniper plate? Took weeks to finally stay put

 

 

 

 

 

 

How is the roundness of my crotch? Hahah

 

 

 

How's the return edge on these?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bigtrev503]

I am concerned about these images. The kidney is supposed to be flush with the butt plate, isn't it? Looking at reference images, it looks like there is a 'notch' in the bottom that the ATA molds don't have. I have seen some add this, but it is unnecessary, I feel, since it's hidden by the belt. I want to put in the side split rivets, but I wanna make double sure everything is right before I drill holes.

 

 

 

 

 

I am having the hardest time fitting the thigh ammo pack. Is there  a trick to it? I can't get it to sit right. I've heard of other kits having one side be longer than the other, but my ATA thigh pack is equally long on both sides. I have put this piece of tape on to illustrate where I think the top edge of the pack should sit. Does it look correct?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How's the bend on the pack?

 

 

 

 

 

Also, I wish there was a pic of that original thigh from the sides, top and bottom. The front and back views help, but I wish I could see one from the top and bottom to get an idea of how tight it should be against the leg. If there is a gap or not, things like that. Is there a pic I'm missing somewhere?

 

Edit: here's the ref image:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/836-stormtrooperbodyarmourcomparisons06jpg/

Edited May 28, 2013 by bigtrev503

[bigtrev503]

Any advice on these edges where the kidney and ab meet and my proposed ammo pack placement? Wanna go canturion right off the bat!

Edited May 29, 2013 by bigtrev503

[Locitus[Admin]]

I think you should make the kidney corner cutout. The knee pack placement is correct as long as you put the rivets in the top corner of the pack. Don't worry so much about the symmetry though.

[bigtrev503]

As far as the cutout, I have the heat sealing iron, so I can do it. Is there a tutorial or some good resource to do that? Also, is there some kind of tutorial or rescource for wrangling the knee ammo pack. I feel like it needs to be trimmed on both sides. It seems a bit long.

 

EDIT: I found a picture and I'm putting it here so I can find it easily

 

http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp139/Billhag/TK%20Armour%20Help/Kidneycutouts01_zpsa28e1167.jpg

Edited May 29, 2013 by bigtrev503

[bigtrev503]

I'm kind of really excited right now. My arms are done! What do you think?

 

 

 

I need to know where these swoops are, or if I have any swoops to begin with. Does ATA have swoops? I've never typed the word 'swoops' so many times at once, it feels weird.

 

 

 

What's with all this talk about swoops?

 

 

 

For level three certification (if applicable): 

• If your shoulder bells have the swoop, the left shoulder bell †swoop†should point forward toward the chest, and the right shoulder bell â€swoop†should point backwards toward the back plate.

[bigtrev503]

So, I'm looking at the CRLs for hero and it occurs to me; why is there no image of the following requirement?

 

 

For level three certification (if applicable): 

• The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.
• The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

Here's the picture showing how these two should appear:

 

 

http://www.501st.com/mw501/images/f/f6/TK_anh_stunt_thighs.jpeg

  

 

and I'm like:

 

 

 

 

 

I'm having areally hard time with this dang ammo belt. I'm afraid to drill an incorrect hole!

Edited May 29, 2013 by bigtrev503

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Just read some EIB/Centurion submissions and you will find your answers

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/113-advanced-tactics/

Edited May 29, 2013 by The5thHorseman

[bigtrev503]

Oh boy, I've been going over those like you wouldn't believe! 

[bigtrev503]

Regarding the ATA thigh pack specifically, does it need to be cut down on either side or should I just round the corners and match up the top corner with the molded bottom corner of the thigh?

 

Anyone out there with a finished, approved ATA kit; can you please post a top, bottom, and side shots of your right thigh ammo pack, please?

 

I really want  to see what the gap between the pack and the armor is like

Edited May 29, 2013 by bigtrev503

[bigtrev503]

Is this an accurate way of doing it?

 

[SCTrooper[TK]]

The first rivet is in the correct place on the bottom of the thigh detail. the second rivet he installs to high, both rivets should be on the lower detail of the thigh and I think its ok if the knee pack is tilted a bit.  Look in the reference section you will see the knee pack isn't perfectly level.

[Dutchtrooper[TK]]

Just FYI when you get to the buttons that get glued onto the stomach plate. don't cut them down to fit inside the indentation. Leave enough lip around the outside so that it lines up "flush" around the framed outer edge of the indentation. The kits are made for sandtroopers too and leaving those stomach buttons off is what the sandtroopers do. 

 

I made the mistake of cutting those buttons down too much to fit inside of the sandtrooper indentation on the stomach piece. I had to reorder the buttons and glue the new piece over the top!

I hope this makes sense, but it was a minor detail in keeping me from getting EIB or Centurion, yet this detail is not mentioned ANYWHERE. You just had to notice it.

[bigtrev503]

Yes, thank you! I was just getting to that part of my build and wasn't sure how much to cut off. 

[Locitus[Admin]]

Use our gallery and look at reference pictures: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/

[bigtrev503]

Yeah, I'm looking at the gallery. It looks like the original material was much more flexible and it sits flush all the way around the thigh. Mine is this hard abs and it doesn't want to fit around without a huge gap. Maybe more heat bending with the blow dryer?

 

 

 

Edited May 30, 2013 by bigtrev503

[Locitus[Admin]]

Whatever works for you. When I did my TM I softened it up in boiling water.

[bjsavage7[TK]]

Yeah, I had to really heat mine up to give it a nice curve. I used a blow dryer.

I like Mathias' idea about the boiling water. I'll have to try that sometime.

[bigtrev503]

Whatever works for you. When I did my TM I softened it up in boiling water.

 

 

Ok, I am interested in this approach. How did you go about it? Submerge the whole thing? How long and how hot was it to handle?

[Locitus[Admin]]

Yeah, completely submerged for a few minutes. Use common sense and check up on it to not let it get too soft (it can't melt however, the ABS melting point is much higher).

 

It gets as hot as you might expect from being submerged in boiling water....