TC77 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 Ok, so please don't flame me or anything, I really just want to make sure that I don't do anything that is considered inappropriate. I am starting on my first set of armor. I have already build my vac-table and holding frame, and and waiting on the wire to arrive so I can finish off my heating element. Next comes the scary part, making the molds. I have found sites around the internet giving directions on most of the parts, including measurements and fairly detailed blueprints on how people have made theirs. What I have not been able to find, apart from screenshots and descriptions, are details for the helment. I know that recasting is considered very wrong by just about everybody here. I am NOT planning on doing that at all. Honest. I just wanted to get that out of the way first. Now here is the question. I have some associates that have some purchased armor and will let me check it out. I was going to go over it with calipers and measuring tape, taking detailed note of rises, curves, etc. Is this too close to using somebody else's work that it would be considered improper or not? Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) this is easy to answer. if you're going to the trouble of sculpting your own forms, and if you're a good enough artist you have the freedom to sculpt your own moulds. most sculptors take photos, measures, use overlays in photoshop and many other concepts to create their mould. as long as you don't dip someone's armor in silicone and cast it. then you're fine. take lessons from some of the master sculptors here on this forum, there are great examples in the TM suit, and TK 4702 has been doing some masterful sculpting and armor creation himself! here's a drawing I made showing measures on my AP helmet. --------------- on the original suits there are several details to consider: the helmet is not round when looking down at it from the top, it has a rounded square with it being off a little the abdomen plate side button panel has a divot at the bottom and the 4 button plate is glued over the top of it. abdomen plate near the cod is offset in the centerline detail to one side. abdomen plate has a twist in it's shape looking down at it from the top when wearing the ab plate. ab plate's vertical lines are offset on the horizontal axis, and they taper wide to thin as they go downwards on the vertical axis. the shin parts should meet at the calves in back, and on the original suits they were sometimes assembled offset at the top. usually parts are aligned from the top and then the bottoms are cut flush. the forearms taper and have subtle curves near the elbow and wrist, there is a wide taper on each side creating a oblong shape along the diameter. the shoulder bells taper near the top of the bicep. one bell has a flare on it's strip near the bottom, I believe it's the right shoulder. the chest ab kidney and back plates all have large 1/4" return edges on them for the mounting of hardware and elastic wire loops. for the best photos in the world look at these LFL photos. the yellowed armor is original, and the whiter color is the Shepperton design studio version. --------------- Edited February 23, 2021 by gmrhodes13 photos updated gmrhodes13 2021 Quote
matt black Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 Man! Say what you want about AA but that man forms armour FAST! Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 Man! Say what you want about AA but that man forms armour FAST! I sped up the frame rate. it does not show him allowing the back n cap to cool on the mould for 3 minutes. and he blows a bubble with his former to pull the wrinkles out before he drives the mould from below. the formech forming machine he's using cost well over 20k. Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 good show! :stormtrooper: :stormtrooper: :stormtrooper: :stormtrooper: Quote
anphrax[TK] Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 I sped up the frame rate. it does not show him allowing the back n cap to cool on the mould for 3 minutes. and he blows a bubble with his former to pull the wrinkles out before he drives the mould from below. the formech forming machine he's using cost well over 20k. Now that's a good show of pure hatred Quote
Do7 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 Look up originalstormtrooper on YouTube, Andrew Ainsworth has 3 videos showing the original molds and how he makes all the parts. Quote
Daetrin[Admin] Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 Well, it depends on what you're recasting. CAP said he could care less about anyone recasting him, so if you could find a set of that you could use that as a base. That's what others have done. Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 Vern mentioned it briefly, but I'll say it again. DOCUMENT EVERYTHING Take pictures of all the steps from hunk of clay to finished mould. It'll save you a lot of grief later on. Quote
geordietrooper Posted May 3, 2012 Report Posted May 3, 2012 as long as you don't dip someone's armor in silicone and cast it. then you're fine that's funny take lessons from some of the master sculptors here on this forum that's even funnier Tim being honest is a good start & if your a good recaster you'll be fine according to this forum apparently Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 6, 2012 Report Posted May 6, 2012 snidly whiplash! all the stuff I mention here has only to do with sculpting your own forms. like mathias says, document every step and you should be fine. rob, I'm sure that paul is only making a suggestion for a road that has some permissions built into it from the sculptor themself. I think it's a great test of skill patience and hard work to sculpt and make your own armor. Quote
TC77 Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Posted May 9, 2012 Thanks all for the advice Vern, that template/measurement will be very helpful as well Quote
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