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Posted (edited)

You're not wrong, i had the 3W RGB LED with the drivers disconnected for this shot.  Appearently i "blow" the Green LED so had to dubble check. Currently waiting on a few replacement RGB LED's, to be on the safe side.

 

I've reconnected everything again and re-uploaded the coding. Don't know why, but it took me a few days to get the code uploaded right.  At the current moment i have sound and light, just have to switch my "FIRE" and "RELOAD" button from position.

 

Next up : Re-connecting the repaired RGB LED + drivers and uploading all the MP3-files for a complete test.

 

 

In the mean time, i'm working on putting the On/OFF switch in the Hengstler housing and operating it with the Original "Reset"-button".  Would be one button less on the E-11 :)

 

 

PS : Thanks again for sharing this project Manuel  :)  And a thank you to all the other Troopers here, who's input has been helpfull :)

Edited by Tristepin
Posted

So, question here :

 

currently i've noticed that the "start-up sound" doesn't work at every start-up....

 

When i've uploaded the code in the Arduino and turn it then it works.  I turn it off, back On again... no startup sound? When i reset the Arduino it'll work again...

And i've noticed that the LED bargraph is starting the count-down from the bottom, so Red turn's off first.  I've checked the connections between the Arduino-pins and the LED Bar-graph and they are as stated in the scheme with the WT5001M02.

 

Anyone here who could point me in the right direction?

Posted

So, question here :

 

currently i've noticed that the "start-up sound" doesn't work at every start-up....

 

When i've uploaded the code in the Arduino and turn it then it works.  I turn it off, back On again... no startup sound? When i reset the Arduino it'll work again...

And i've noticed that the LED bargraph is starting the count-down from the bottom, so Red turn's off first.  I've checked the connections between the Arduino-pins and the LED Bar-graph and they are as stated in the scheme with the WT5001M02.

 

Anyone here who could point me in the right direction?

 

as for the bar graph you can easily change the light-up order moving up or down the  code line of each bar-pin

 

as for the sound issue can't help much, be sure to use DriveSort on the sd card as showed in the first page

Posted

Well, it was easier to swap the LED Bargraph connection pins instead of messing with the code ;) 

 

At the current moment everything is working properly, even the welcoming speech by Lord Vader.  I'll simply have to re-check the sorting of the audio-file's and otherwise i'll just have to learn to live with it.

 

It's just a shame that i don't have the space required for the installation of the smoke-generator.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I had a similar problem when I made mine, turned out that one of the switches was a "normal open" when it should have been "normal close" I can't recall which one it was, but to test, simply hold one of your current switches closed whilst powering up. If no change, shut down, hold the next switch closed and repeat. You might have a different problem, but it's worth a try.  

Hi Balders,

 

thanks for the Note I got Private things i had to manage and i stopped the Project.

But now i go on with it :-) better late than never ;-) 

I still have it, but i figured out that the button 7 (Fire) is the Problem

when i press it the sound stops and the other buttons work fine.

I use the original Code from SkyOne but i dont figure out where i have to change the Parameter.

Posted

i sent you a pm, you should change the code of the button 7 state from LOW to HIGH

you have a normally closed trigger instead of normally open

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi, can anyone help me out with coding?

I want to make a simplified version of this, I only wish to have one weapon option (so no need for the weapon selection controls) so only one LED colour (I'm going to use a few red LEDs to create a muzzle flash effect with three red dot laser diodes.) but I really like the magazine option, so I plan to have 5 green LEDs 3 yellow LEDs and then 2 red LEDs as an indicator, so I would want to keep those controls. So, I know exactly what I need to "tell" the arduino but I don't really know "how" to tell it as my programming knowledge isn't great.

 

I need to tell the Arduino that when switched on, light up all 10 LEDs, then when the trigger switch it activated turn off one of the 10 LEDs and activate the muzzle flash LEDS and Laser for a period (not sure on time, but less than a second I would imagine) and play the blaster sound file, then once the trigger switch has been activated 10 times do not activate the muzzle flash LEDS and Laser, but play the blaster empty sound file, then once the "reset" (reload) switch is activated, revert back to switched on mode.

 

Does that all make sense?

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

All the pictures in your build description are unavailable.  Is there a PDF to download?

Edited by StrmTRPR85
Typo
Posted

This is an epidemic, photobucket managed to swipe out years of archive on many fun forums over the globe by changing their policy about 3rd party hosting. It's not only this thread. I guess it would take quite a time to reconstruct everything here. I'm really mad at them too!

Posted

Hi guys,

 

yeah sorry, this thread is one more photobucket victim. I've updated a few of my threads but not all of them.

 

Cheers

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

i am studing a pcb board ready to assembly diy kit, in the meantime i have found another set of led driver suitable to this project

it  has the same  PT4115 IC of the led driver linked in the first post, resistors to give 350mA 1W, but it is better because:

 

DC 7-30V to 1.2-28V 350MA 1W

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-7-30V-to-1-2-28V-350MA-1W-buck-step-down-module-LED-Driver-PWM-dimming-Dimmer-/201541542989

 

 

- no unecessary diods

- PWM pin is ready, no need to solder wire straigh to the IC pad

 

so, as before, we need 3 of this, one for each colured led (RGB)

it is untested yet, i will order, if ok i will update the first page replacing the old one.

 

s-l225.jpg

Edited by skyone
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

big improvements today! got the new led drivers 1watt each with PT4115 integrated circuit and they work great powering with arduino a super bight 3 watt RGB led! now it is very easy the assembly, thanks to the pins ready to solders.

 


21688372_2396021047289221_40399584836866

 

Moreover, i also tested a new Mp3 player board, even smaller and cheaper to the previous one. It is called DFPlayer mp3 mini (also know as Mp3-TF-16P), it communicates with arduino via serial ports, has its own library (very easy to program), it is 3watt mono (who care if it is not stereo) and we can connect to 2 speakers via the small mini amp (3w+3w). Just tested with arduino, a 8GB MiniSD card, RGB led and button and it works great! :) what else for just 1,20euro?

 

21752488_2396176733940319_31674326573767

 

you can watch  both succesfull video test on my facebook page here https://www.facebook.com/fxblasterarduino/

 

very soon i will update the first page with everythings needed associated to this upgrade. And a new project is coming..

 

Edited by skyone
edit
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I'm glad you discovered the DFPlayer!!! It just happens to be exactly the same chipset I use in all of my DIYino boards.

 

The module is superb, definitely the loudest I've tested so far, especially coupled with a premium bass 2W speaker from VECO.

 

The Prime used the same YX5200-24SS chipset assembled on the MP3-tf-16p, now for the Stardust I use a more advanced chipset YX-6300-24SS because it can read the wav/mp3 files both from an SD card and an SPI-flash. For blasters due to the short duration of the sound file the SPI-flash is perfect, that is why I decided to put a 16MByte flash on the Stardust v2 instead of the cumbersome SD-card holder.

 

On my GitHub you can also find the library for the DFPlayer:

https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-SaberOS/tree/master/libraries

 

BTW, it is one of those rare chipset which can do gapless playback, essential for lightsaber probs. But later on I plan to add the possibility of a humming sound to my blaster software, and there this feature will come in handy :)

Edited by RankAndFileTrooper
Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, RankAndFileTrooper said:

I'm glad you discovered the DFPlayer!!! It just happens to be exactly the same chipset I use in all of my DIYino boards, including the new Stardust v2:

Stardust V2 Introduction

 

The module is superb, definitely the loudest I've tested so far, especially coupled with a premium bass 2W speaker from VECO.

 

It took me quite a time and effort to find out what chipset this module uses, and I had to even ask some Chinese colleagues to translate to me from Chinese to understand it. Those guys building the DFPlayer protected it like a holy secret. But finally I even managed to source these chips I now build into my DIYino boards.

 

The Prime used the same YX5200-24SS chipset assembled on the MP3-tf-16p, now for the Stardust I use a more advanced chipset YX-6300-24SS because it can read the wav/mp3 files both from an SD card and an SPI-flash. For blasters due to the short duration of the sound file the SPI-flash is perfect, that is why I decided to put a 16MByte flash on the Stardust v2 instead of the cumbersome SD-card holder.

 

On my GitHub you can also find the library for the DFPlayer:

https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-SaberOS/tree/master/libraries

 

BTW, it is one of those rare chipset which can do gapless playback, essential for lightsaber probs. But later on I plan to add the possibility of a humming sound to my blaster software, and there this feature will come in handy :)

 

First post main title updated:
 

Quote

 

FX BLASTER PROJECT
based on Arduino microcontroller

 

This topic is dedicated to a Free Open Source-DIY project, please keep as clean as possible from any kind  form of spam

These are: advertisements masquerading as articles; external link spamming; and adding references with the aim of promoting the author or the work being referenced.

Advertisements include those that are solicitations for a business, product or service, or are public relations pieces designed to promote a company or individual.

 

this is an open source project released under the GPL Creative Commons license.

You are free to copy, distribute, display, and perform the work to make derivative works under the following conditions:

Attribution: ” You must give the original author credit".

Non-Commercial: ” You may not use this work for commercial purposes"

 

 

 

Updated scheme, link, info and code working with the new DFPlyer mp3 sound board.

:)

 

IMG_20170926_083911_HDR.jpg

Edited by skyone
Posted

I recall one of your earlier post where you dismissed this MP3 player as one with an inferior quality. I'm glad now you endorsed it. I found that it was by far the easiest to program via Arduino, without the need to prepare files or use an external programmer. Damn loud too!

 

And this is the one I referred to, having the SPI-flash instead of the SD-card:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BY8301-16P-SSOP2-MP3-Aduio-Serial-Voice-SPI-FLASH-Module-3W-Amplifier-Micro-USB-/271684522808?hash=item3f41a8d338:g:KXMAAOSw7ThUdS08

 

(this is no advertisement, I've copied out from one of the DFPlayer Gits I found)

It is even smaller than the SD-card version.

Posted

i just updated the first post image scheme, fixed a mistake :)

 

in the meantime enjoy this pictures from last weekend event with arduino blaster and its powerfull 3watt RGB led! ;)

 

IMG-20171007-_WA0055.jpg   IMG-20171007-_WA0047.jpg

Posted (edited)
On 29/7/2017 at 4:28 AM, StrmTRPR85 said:

All the pictures in your build description are unavailable.  Is there a PDF to download?

 

all the building pictures from page 2 to page 4 are now back online ;)

Edited by skyone
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I've bought most of my parts already andI've started putting my stuff together to see it working. The link below is a video of what I have working so far.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8yssdofA4w&t=181s

 

As I am installing it into an E22 Blaster I would like to use two of the tri colour LEDs on the shopping list. If I use three LED drivers to power both LEDs should I stick to the 350ma drivers or would three 700ma drivers be more appropriate?

 

Below are the two options I am considering at the moment.

 

The 700ma driver:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PWM-3W-LED-driver-board-700mA-Type1/222683170625?hash=item33d8f38741:g:~cUAAOSwn5ZZcNVa

 

The 350ma driver:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350-MA-Constant-current-LED-driver-with-PWM-control-up-to-10-off-1W-led-UK-stock/191593520923?epid=592199442&hash=item2c9bdd1f1b:g:8xIAAOSw~OdVbiZQ

Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, roxiestrife said:

So I've bought most of my parts already andI've started putting my stuff together to see it working. The link below is a video of what I have working so far.

 

 

 

not sure what leds you are going to use

as fire effect, are you going to use an RGB led or standards led as in the video? or you want to use 2 sets of RGB led? why should you need 2 in that case?

component-led-vollong-rgb3.jpg

 

RIs7J.jpg

 

drivers are needed in the RGB led because high amperage. In that case you need a 350mA driver for each color.  But if you use standard led as the second picture (they rated about 20ma) you don-t need the driver, you can use a resistor as the blue pulse led (around 100ohm).

Edited by skyone

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