Neat acetone - seemingly an adequate substitue for plastic weld products

[Rich330[TK]]

Ever since I've been builsing TKs I've always bought specialist solvent-based poly weld/plastic weld products for welding plastic. I use it to put joining/reinforcement strips on the inside of limb joints.

 

Anyway, I've just run out mid-build and rather than stop, I decided to test a theory that I have had for a while, i.e. that neat acetone will do the job just as well.

I know that the solvents used as the basis for plastic weld products are related to acetone and I've always used acetone to make ABS paste.

 

I tested it on a bit of scrap. First results are looking good. If anything it looks like it may need to be used a little more sparingly but works fine.

 

Can anyone confirm what I'm saying?

[Sonnenschein]

I can.

 

I think I read somewhere that AA is building "his" armors with acetone, too

[Rich330[TK]]

I can.

 

I think I read somewhere that AA is building "his" armors with acetone, too

 

Cool. The pieces of scrap that I tested on seem fine. No excessive warping or other damage. That's the last time I spend money on expensive poly weld!

[Sonnenschein]

I rather like plastic glues (weld) because they're thicker in conistence and more controlable. But for larger areas acetone is better and cheaper.

[Rich330[TK]]

I rather like plastic glues (weld) because they're thicker in conistence and more controlable. But for larger areas acetone is better and cheaper.

 

The stuff I have has always been liquid. I've never used the thicker cement stuff.

[RogueTrooper[TK]]

Be carefully with the acetone. I used it a few times to make of ABS paste etc... It can warp and weaken if you use to much.

 

SDS uses a mix ratio with the acetone.

 

Have you tried either the clear or milky clear ABS plumbing cement (like what you would find in the plumbing area of a Home Improvement store).

 

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

AA uses acetone and Abs mixed together like abs paste to glue the armor together.

 

permanant bond.

 

problem I've found is that it does not always coat evenly or bond correctly and

 

can be patchy or even unglued at some points... I've used a brush to apply it

 

and keep it in a metal container.

 

I have gone back to e-6000 for it's flexible and removable aspects.

Edited April 9, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Necron[TK]]

I still swear by E-6000 since it doesn't warp or melt if you use to much and it comes off if you really need it to.

[Rich330[TK]]

Steady on, guys, No one said anything about replacing E6000.

 

All I use poly weld/acetone for is quickly welding reinforcement strips/tabs inside the seam before putting on the external finishing strips. I use E6000 for the finishing strips and everything else.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

the inside backing strips then?

[Rich330[TK]]

the inside backing strips then?

 

Yes. I know the originals didn't have anything (much) inside the join (the parts were largely held together with just the outer finishing strips) but I like to weld in a strip of scrap material or place a few tabs at various intervals along the inside of the join mainly because I find it a lot easier to glue on the finishing strips if the part is already assembled and properly aligned.

[Rich330[TK]]

This kind of thing ...

 

 

 

[TKCaleb]

When I built my CFO helmet, I used a product I picked up at a local hobby shop called Tenax-7R. The employees there swore by that stuff and after I used it, I understood why. The product fuses/welds ABS plastic right at the seams and takes less than a minute to bond.

 

Only issue I had was the price, which was close to $10 dollars for a small 1 fl oz bottle.

 

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Edited December 9, 2020 by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2020

[bobojuice]

I always use CA with accelerator. Creates a bond in 1 second and is very solid. Also, if you really have an emergency, with a bit of elbow grease you can still take the pieces apart.

[sskunky]

The easiest way to apply the liquid cement is to clamp the two parts together with clamps and/or magnets then with a small paint brush dip it in the solvent liquid cement/polyweld and touch the seam. It will enter the join via a capillary action and run down and into the seam/join. It's very easy and makes for a good strong, clean weld. It should be left for 15 -20 mins to go off...... I use it on every build of armour and lids.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

I personally use the method that rich is doing on all the limbs for armor builds.

even to the point of cutting a special strip just for that exact join.

 

then I cover the inside with white duct tape... looks sweet even on the inside!

[Faie[TK]]

Hi everyone, AA uses MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) and Abs mixed together like abs paste to glue the armor together

[azmyth1]

Hi everyone, AA uses MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) and Abs mixed together like abs paste to glue the armor together

is that the stuff you use with fiberglass?

[Sonnenschein]

Yes, same stuff

[DarkTrooper[TK]]

I've been using this stuff on my current ABS ATA build. I love it. Like the label says "water thin, fast curing". It welds the two pieces together.

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Edited December 9, 2020 by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2020