GnrlGrievous Posted April 3, 2012 Report Posted April 3, 2012 I am getting ready to attach the sniper plate and was reading the requirements. The base requirement seems to be rivots, brads, etc., but 3rd level states no "visible" rivots, brads, etc. Does this mean the sniper plate is glued on? Or are some troopers actually using velcro? Glue is what I assume, but was wondering what other troopers are using. Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted April 3, 2012 Report Posted April 3, 2012 If you want to do it the right way, glue is the way to go. Quote
TK5492[TK] Posted April 3, 2012 Report Posted April 3, 2012 We've got a guy that uses velcro. It falls off at every. Single. Troop. Just sayin' Quote
anphrax[TK] Posted April 3, 2012 Report Posted April 3, 2012 Get Devcon Plastic Weld. If you want to take it off you'll have to use a dremel Quote
Dr.Senf Posted April 3, 2012 Report Posted April 3, 2012 Do it right straight away!! Glue this bugger on!! Quote
bobojuice Posted April 3, 2012 Report Posted April 3, 2012 I used CA glue with accelerator. That paired with a few clamps and it takes about 10 seconds to glue on. Quote
GnrlGrievous Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Posted April 4, 2012 Thanks for the advice everyone, it has been glued! Quote
TK Keith[TK] Posted July 6, 2012 Report Posted July 6, 2012 (edited) Good thread- short and sweet without many different options. And now I know how to attach my sniper plate! Edited July 6, 2012 by TK 5376 Quote
89Batman[TK] Posted July 7, 2012 Report Posted July 7, 2012 Frank Sometimes the glue method doesn't always hold up, especially on some thicker armour plastics. Our Cheif Armour at the UKG, Billy (Billhag), came up with this simple but effective way to tackle this problem that some guys were having http://www.whitearmo...showtopic=18483 On 2/6/2012 at 4:43 AM, Billhag said: Here's my method, nothing too big and exciting, just a simple solution with the practicality of being able to remove or replace if needed at a later stage. Some sniper plates can be a bit of a buggar to play around with and 2mm acrylic capped ABS is no exception as it tends not to give too much when you try to bend or shape it. (no problem with 1-1.5mm). Riveting it straight on is not to much of a problem but it tends to fight you when you try to glue it in place. E6000 will hold it but as I have seen many times will eventually give out. You could use something more permanent like Pipe Weld or similar but this means you’re knackered if you ever want to swap it out. So here’s my little solution, nothing revolutionary, and there may well be some out there who have an even better way to achieve a nice ‘n’ clean non permanent way of fitting this little buggar with less fuss, so always keep an open mind, ‘coz as the saying goes “there’s more then one way to skin a cat†skin a cat†Gerrit Go for the smaller rivet mate and once they're on get some Miliput and just dome the top off, works a treat . Gerrit Go for the smaller rivet mate and once they're on get some Miliput and just dome the top off, works a treat . Hope this helps . Quote
GnrlGrievous Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Posted July 15, 2012 Thanks Gary, that is a great alternative. If the E6000 does not hold up and it eventually breaks free, that would be the way to go. Quote
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