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Posted

How do the male part of the snaps attach to a 1 1/2" piece of plastic? How thick can the plastic be? How large of hole should be drilled for a #24 or 5/8 snap? Or can I just glue it to the plastic?

Posted (edited)

Steve,

 

Pick this up at JoAnn Fabrics

 

It will come in handy!!

 

I think I use a 1/8" drill for snap plates...or get a revolving punch pliers from Home Depot

7f01845d-94ea-4698-81cb-2cd15c9397b3_300.jpg

Store SKU # 126985

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2020
Posted

I've put snaps through 2mm thick plastic using a hammer and tool. Vario pliers give neater results.

 

I always put some tape over the base of the snap to stop the metal from contacting the glue (Vern is quite right with his warning).

 

A suggestion: Instead of plastic snap tabs, you can just put the male snap through some webbing or elastic and glue that inside your armour instead. It means less time cutting out plastic.

Posted

I like to use pop rivets too. Drill a 1/8" hole thru the plastic and countersink one side with a 1/2" drill bit, that way the rivet will be flush with the surface. I just use the xtra plastic that came with the kit to make finshing strips. Here are some pix

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Posted

glue causes heat when in contact with metal snaps.

don't let it melt your armor.

Out of curiosity, is that just E-6000 or is this common with different glues?

Posted

If your snaps are lacquered you don't have to worry about heat generating. I have never had any issues with the snaps I've been using.

Posted

I've discovered the pop rivet method depends on the brand of rivet.

 

For the Dritz Heavy Duty snaps 1) the rod was too short to go through the plastic and 2) the openings were too small for the washer. They will, however, work just fine with the webbing/elastic methods.

 

The Tandy Leather rivets have a wider opening and a longer rod. I've since switched to these as I prefer using plastic for a base.

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