xaoslord Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Posted February 23, 2012 Here are some pictures of trimming up the biceps. First I test fitted them while they were taped up to check fit. I knew they were going to be big but I didn't want to trim too much at once so I just started with the 8mm guide and went from there. I put the guide against the overlap and marked it with a pencil. Then it was time to trim. I originally tried to hold the straight-edge in place while I made my scoring cuts. I found it kept wanting to move while making the cuts. I finally held the ruler in place using spring clamps so I could get a straight cut. After cutting the edges on both sides of the bicep halves, I taped it together and made another test fit. It was large so I thought I would start by cutting the remaining overhang on one side first. On the left bicep, I did this with the back seam, so I decided to keep it symetrical and do the same with the right one. I marked the correct overlap to cut so I wouldn't get the wrong one and cut it the same way I did the other cuts. Once I had the overlaps on the back part of the bicep cut, I taped them together and test fit them. I wouldn't need to cut the other overlap. You can see the overlap is still present on the other side. I do need to make another pass with the utility knife as there is a tiny portion of the raised overlap still there, and it will interfere with the coverstrip. I will have to glue one side at a time as I will have to put some pressure on the halves to get them to match up properly, but I think that's standard procedure from the other builds I've seen. Quote
xaoslord Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) Nice progress The progress isn't coming as quickly as I hoped, but I'm not getting alot of shop time. Started glueing up the biceps. Started by scuffing up the areas where the glue would make contact, so it can get a little better bite on the plastic. Both the joints on the biceps and the coverstrips got a light sanding. I used a scrap of trimmed abs as a spreader for the E-6000. I didn't want to try wrestling with holding both strips in place while getting the clamps and magnets in place so I did the inside first. I gave it some time to set a little then I went ahead and sanded the outer coverstrip and the biceps where it would go, and glued up the outer strip. Sorry about that, Flickr decided to take a crap while I was posting this. I'll update when I can. [Edit: pic added.] I think I've given up on being able to have completely closed forearms. I just can't get my hands in and out. I guess velcro is in my future. I need to look at some screen captures and other builds to get an idea of how much room I should have the elbow end of the forearms. If I need to take up some space, would it look odd to do a tapered trim? I just can't afford to take any off at the wrist, so any trimming would have to be tapered. Edited February 23, 2012 by xaoslord Quote
xaoslord Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Posted February 28, 2012 Today's lesson: One thing at a time. With the weather looking up, I decided to try to get some more done today. I wanted to finish the biceps today. I have finished one of the two joints on each, and started working to close the second joint. Like before, I sanded the areas where the glue would be placed to get the best hold. I started by putting the internal strip on one side and clamped it down and thought I would go ahead and close the joint up at the same time. Of course that didn't work because the completed joint now works like a spring to keep the joint apart, and I couldn't get the strip glued, the joint together, and everything clamped at the same time. I had to be content to glue the strip one one side, let it cure and then I will close the joint tomorrow. After I got those clamped, I checked on my E-11. I had glued the counter back on and wanted to see about putting the D-ring I got from Trooperbay in place. I drilled the back of the blaster. (sorry about the bad pic.) I got the D-ring out to bend it, and found the joint was welded shut. I got the Dremel out with a cutting wheel and made quick (ha!) work of opening the ring. Then came time to bend it to my will. This thing is heavy gauge and I had a time getting it opened just right so I could get it on the blaster. I was looking over the CRL, and if I understand it correctly, I need to remove one of the T-tracks from the blaster. Is this the correct one? And now for a question on cover strips and velcro. I'm not entirely sure how to approach the butt joint method with strips, when having to use velcro to close part of the armor, eg. forearms and calves? I don't want to go cutting on anything until I'm sure how these parts go together. Quote
Sparrow Posted February 28, 2012 Report Posted February 28, 2012 Here is a link for but joints http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorials-legs Quote
xaoslord Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Posted February 28, 2012 Here is a link for but joints http://www.whitearmo.../Tutorials-legs Perfect! Thanks Steve! So you can do a butt-joint with those, you just don't use an inner strip. Quote
Arnie_DK[TK] Posted February 28, 2012 Report Posted February 28, 2012 Yes that is the correct T-track to remove. Remember to re drill the holes underneath, and maybe attach a bayonet lug And I had some trouble with my D-ring too...those things are sturdy!! Quote
xaoslord Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Posted February 28, 2012 Not alot of progress today. I closed the biceps, and I was suprised at how hard it was fighting me. I could have used a couple more hands. I was trying to avoid using the metal clamps, per Darth Aloha's warning, but they were the strongest I had and ended up using them. I'm not even trying to put the cover strip on until this has cured. I went ahead and removed the extra T-track from my E-11. It wasn't too bad, the holes were already there, so that wil save a little work. Only drilling today was the barrel. Finally finished making snap plates. I made around 40, hopefully that will do. Quote
Sparrow Posted February 28, 2012 Report Posted February 28, 2012 Bit by bit. Enjoy the build. I just finished mine. After spending three months on it, I'm like, what do I do now with my time! Quote
xaoslord Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Posted February 29, 2012 Yeah, one thing at a time. I'm looking into Morten's suggestion on a bayonet lug for the E-11. I'm trying to decide how much detail I want to get into with it. I haven't decided what to do with the forearms yet. I need to take up a little slack at the elbow end but I can't really take any out of the wrist end. Quote
Arnie_DK[TK] Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 Is your forarms biting when you move your arms? If thats the case you can remove a bit of the inner forearm. Like I did in my build Quote
xaoslord Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Posted February 29, 2012 No, I haven't closed the forearms yet. The wrist opening is so small that I can't really take any diameter off of it, but I do need to take some of the diameter out on the elbow side. If I cut the overhang completely off for the butt joints, the wrist opening will be too small. If I leave part of the overhang at the wrist, and taper the cut to take off more on the elbow end of the forearm, it will look odd. Quote
Arnie_DK[TK] Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 Maybe you could cut off a bit at the top and bottom. Heres my forearm for comparison. I'm pretty sure the raised area should go all the way, and not stop before the edge. Quote
xaoslord Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Posted February 29, 2012 Let me check how I am length-wise on the forearms. I don't think I needed to lose any of the length, but maybe I could take a little off... Quote
xaoslord Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Posted March 2, 2012 Added the last coverstrips on the biceps today. Once they are cured I can trim a little where they join. Here are some pics with one of the forearms on. Depending on how I hold my arm, I have some slack at the elbow end. How do they look, length-wise? Should I trim a little off the ends? Quote
xaoslord Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Posted March 5, 2012 I think I'll make sure all of the return edge has been removed at the wrist, and do a slight taper on the trimming for the butt-joints. I hope to keep the wrist opening large enough that I won't have to velcro one seam. We woke up to about 4 inches of snow today, but tomorrow is supposed to be back in the 50s. Hopefully, more shop time tomorrow... Quote
xaoslord Posted March 8, 2012 Author Report Posted March 8, 2012 Decided to change gears a little and do a little work on the midsection. I decided I was going to install the split rivets in the ab/kidney plate and start glueing snap plates. I initially drew out where I was going to place the rivets. (Sorry no pics for this, the marks didn't show on the photos.) I drilled the holes for the rivets. I put the rivet through and put a washer on it. When I set the rivet, I found the split did not go far enough down, and there was way too much slack in the rivet. They were too long! I had to cut the rivet off. I had smaller ones, but looked too small. I did have some Chicago screws so I tried them. Do they look too large? Keep in mind, I will be painting them white. I also started glueing some of the snap plates in place. I had family come over so I didn't get very far today. Let me know what you think of the size of the Chicago screws. I would rather change them now than later. Quote
xaoslord Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Posted March 9, 2012 Decided to try the taper on a forearm today. I tried to widen the wrist opening by not trimming as much at that end and tapered the cut back to reduce the diameter at the elbow end. Once the first side cures I'll try taping the other before I close it and see if it is going to work. If not, I guess it will be velcro for me. I installed the snap on the right side of the ab. And glued a couple more snap plates. More as I get a chance. Let me know if you have any feedback. This is my first build and welcome any help. Well the Chicago screws were about 11 mm and the split rivets I had were either 10 mm (plus too long) or only 6 mm, so I guess I'll be looking for some. Quote
xaoslord Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Posted March 15, 2012 Got my replacement split rivets today. The solid part of the shaft was still a little long for my taste but I went with them. Also got my TD in from Jesse, and it looks great! Here is a comparison with the RT-Mod one. (The RT-Mod has not been glued or painted yet.) Jesse's is in the back. Camera gave out on me, so I don't have pics of the work I put into snaps today. I have been gluing more snap plates down. I also trimmed about 5mm from the front of a forearm, to see if I can fit my hand in and out without velcroing one side. Seems to work. Now to see what's up with the camera. Quote
SCTrooper[TK] Posted March 15, 2012 Report Posted March 15, 2012 The new split rivets look much better. Quote
xaoslord Posted March 17, 2012 Author Report Posted March 17, 2012 I got a little tired of only having 1/4 of my workbench to use so I decided to clean the shop. I found the missing E-6000. Now I have plenty, Hopefully I can get some work done. Quote
xaoslord Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Posted April 1, 2012 With the early arrival of spring, I've had little time to work on my build. Too many projects that were waiting on the weather to clear up. Hope to get most of those behind me this week, then I can get back to this. Quote
TK-Fett[TK] Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 Awesome post man, hope to see you out trooping some events in KY soon. I actually met you years ago, we met on a parking lot and traded some fett armor for a Rubies chewbacca. Quote
xaoslord Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Posted April 2, 2012 Hey Tyler! I still have that armor! Quote
TK-Fett[TK] Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 Awesome, I had a ton of fun out of that chewie suit. Quote
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