Preparing for TM ANH(stunt) build.

[Arnie_DK[TK]]

About a month from now, I should have a big brown box in my possesion, if not, then it would be very close.

Anyway, before that said box arrives, i want to be sure, that i have everything ready for it, so I can start the build right away.

 

I'm going for EIB and Centurion with this kit, although I'm gonna build it for trooping.

 

So far i have theese items on their way from Trooperbay:

E6000(3 tubes)

Frown mesh

Rare earth magnets(30 pcs)

Gray and french blue humbrol paint

 

I have found Lexan scissors and a good modelling knife.

 

I'm gonna use snap system for the strapping inside the armour, and adopting the original strapping system for the shins. Shoulders will be connected across the back of the neck i think, but not fully decided yet.

 

For the neck seal, I'm thinking of sewing a simple one that i can just pull over my head, with no back seam. Maybe even attach it to the neck on my undersuit.

 

Although i have ordered E6000, I'm not sure I will use it. I'm used to woorking with plastic cement on miniatures, and actually assembled most of my FX armour kit with it. I used the blue bottle with the yellow top, from Humbrol, and i like how the plastic fuses together, for a strong bond. But will this work on ABS?

If going with the E6000, should the part be sanded, before the glue is applied, so as to give a good bonding surface?

 

Helmet will be assembled and painted by TM himself, and I'm also getting my belt and holster from him.

 

I got rubber handplates and gloves from Karin.

 

So, have I missed anything?

Any and all advice is more than welcome!

 

Cheers

[Spectre]

Sounds like you've got it under control to me. But the more experienced members might be able to offer advice or notice things that might be required.

One thing though, how are you thinking of attaching the snaps? Using vario pliers?

Good luck!

[Arnie_DK[TK]]

Im gonna use snap plates inside the armor

[Spectre]

Ah yeah my bad haha.

Hmmm..how are you gonna attach the snaps to the plates?

Haha just kidding.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

e 6000 needs duct tape covering the back of a snap. it will create heat and melt the armor if any glue

touches the back. I make snap plates out of large rectangles, not squares. snap in center, tape on back

glue at the edges.

 

the key to using e-6000 is that it's removable and cleans up.

on abs if you get a bubble, or a glue run, or need to apply more, it can be removed from the parts you'll see.

it also polishes away with NOVUS plastic polish.

 

some troopers use 'crazy' glue, but that type of glue can become brittle over time

and if you're going to use the suit a lot I'd go with the more flexible and forgiving e-6

 

the whole assembly is a lot stronger with inner strips, and outer strips at the fronts of the legs

and arms.

[Spectre]

What will create heat and melt the armour? The back of the snap? So when you make snap plates you should make sure you cover the exposed back of the snap?

[Locitus[Admin]]

I had no heat issues AT ALL using E-6000 directly on snaps and ABS plastic.

[Arnie_DK[TK]]

e 6000 needs duct tape covering the back of a snap. it will create heat and melt the armor if any glue

touches the back.

 

Not sure I follow??

I know the Humbrol plastic cement "melts" the plastic, but never heard of E6000 doing it. Is it when it is combined with metal, or???

[Spectre]

Yeah I'm confused as well. :S

[Locitus[Admin]]

Supposedly it is in combination with the metal. But I have glued snap plates with E-6000 many times and had no issues at all with that. E-6000 is rock solid in my opinion.

[Arnie_DK[TK]]

Well thats good.

 

But i still dont see why E6000 is better than the plastic glue.

I want my glue to make a permanent bond when its dry, and E6000 just seems "weak" to me, when you can just peel it of when its dry. And 24H drying time, just doesent appeal to me... Its a weakness i have. Sorry.

 

I can see why its nice to be able to correct your mistakes, if you do make some, but thats the only real advantage I see.... Am I missing something completely?

 

But I'm going to make some test with both glues on some scrap ABS when i have it, and then i will fully decide then.

[Locitus[Admin]]

E-6000 since it's a bit rubbery flexes and moves with your armour. Too rigid and the stress could make it crack. I know the curing time is a b*itch, but trust me, E-6000 is strong enough for even the most demanding trooping. It won't ever come apart unless you want it to.

[vecspeed12]

I used e6000. It works well. If you dont like it. You can take it apart as well. I too did not have any issues using it with snaps.

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

There's nothing weak about E6K. Plus 4 out of 5 troopers recommend E-6000. Tough to argue with crowd roar voices of experience. The cure time does suck butt. In retrospect not rushing any more than I had to ended up being a good thing. My next build I plan to savor and enjoy thoughtfully. The stong but flexible nature of it is it's best feature.

 

I got E-6000 on some of my plated snaps with no heat issues. However I had a couple random stainless ones that reacted with the glue but only melted marred the inside of the armor. I thought about painting them with clear nail polish to see if that stopped the reaction. Search fisd and you'll find photos of people who had simiilar issues.

 

Is your armor TM too?

 

Aloha and keep us posted.

 

-Eric

 

 

[Arnie_DK[TK]]

Thanks for all the advice people. Preciate it

 

And yes the armour is TM too

Just had a PM from him, asking if I want 1,5 or 2mm... Getting closer

Not really sure what the big difference is between the two. But Im going to troop with this, so I'm thinking 2mm

[vecspeed12]

I troop my 1.5. Its flexible and more accurate. The 2mm i heard is good for abusive troops and super shiny. Both are really good. You would win with either decision

Edited January 7, 2012 by vecspeed12

[Arnie_DK[TK]]

I went with the 1.5mm

Edited January 7, 2012 by Arnie_DK

[Spectre]

I don't even know what my AM kit is. You'll be impressed no matter what you get, I've heard a lot of good things about TM.

[Locitus[Admin]]

I think AM is 2 mm. Haven't seen one up close, but that's what the FX was.

[Spectre]

Ah ok. It doesn't bother me either way, but that would make sense seeing as it's made for bigger people like myself I suppose.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Thickness of the plastic has nothing to do with the size of the person wearing it. I have 2 mm TM and I'm really skinny.

Edited January 8, 2012 by Locitus

[Arnie_DK[TK]]

As i've been told, 1.5 is more flexible than the 2.0 so i should be able to sit down, without worrying about the butt plate cracking or anything.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Yes, it's more flexible, although I have no problems sitting down in mine either. I guess it's a bit of technique and body frame.

[Arnie_DK[TK]]

My TM is now on its way and should be here this week.

 

I have ordered ICOMM instead of ROM/fx and that is going through the customs as im writing this. I need a microfone for it though. Anybody know of a good mic for this? I'm looking for a small mic taped to the cheek under my balaclava, so I wont have any wires poking out of the helmet. Preferably from within EU.(Europe, not Expanded Universe )

 

Also, I have never worked with E6000 before. Should I sand the parts before I add the glue or will it bind on the ABS without sanding first?

 

Thanks

Morten

[Locitus[Admin]]

You will also need a amp and speaker for the icomm. I suggest aker since icomm is made to be used with an aker amp-speaker.

 

Always sand the abs a bit before gluing. Make sure to get lots of (strong!) rare earth magnets to hold the pieces together while the glue cures. E-6000 has a really long cure-time but it's worth the wait.

 

Edit: I just checked the first post and saw you already got the magnets.

Edited February 14, 2012 by Locitus