First cut, then throw up, then measure, right?

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

All right. If I keep watching videos and reading tutorials as a method of procrastination I will never join the ranks of the 501st. So here goes.

 

I've built armor out of other, more forgiving materials; I've sculpted/cast/molded things (badly) and then sanded, detailed, painted, etc. I used to build model airplanes. I've probably got everything I need except a rivet gun.

 

Yet I'm scared to death to ruin this "investment." (Mostly the eye holes and teeth. And any part that "shows.")

 

What I've gathered is this:

 

1. Stop procrastinating.

2. Purchase the stuff you still need i.e. rivet gun and rivets, industrial strength velcro, etc.

3. Open the tutorial on the first thing you want to build as reference. (But don't read it AGAIN.)

4. Take out the piece you are going to build as well as the tools.

5. Trim off the plastic parts that come off:

- Use a box cutter or exacto blade, leaving a little room to sand off

- Throw up

- Sand edges

6. Rinse, repeat on any connecting parts, minus the throwing up part

7. Use masking or painters tape to size pieces, measure, etc.

8. Repeat #5 to size the pieces together, repeat #7 until it's right

9. Glue, clamp, etc. let cure (patience!!!)

10. Continue with next piece, repeating #2-9 minus the throwing up part because supposedly it's getting easier and I'm getting more confident.

 

Does that sound about right?

 

One more quick question - it IS okay if I do this entirely in velcro to start, and then modify over time to include snaps and what-not for screen accuracy, right?

 

And last but not least, if I want to do a return on my edge, I am assuming I do NOT sand down to the edge, but leave a little bit to fold over? Or is it folding over at all, or just flattening the edge (like a T) to make it a bit "thicker?"

 

Thank you all in advance, and definitely hope to be trooping before year's end!

[gazmosis[501st]]

The only part that reall has no return edges are the forearms at the wrists. Depending on your armor maker, you should be able to see the return edge as a little dip that follows the contour of the tops of the shins, thighs, and most other parts. The shoulders are usually a challenge but any return around 3/16 to 1/4 inch is fine.

As for the strapping system...in my opinion...do it right the first time and you won't need to mess with it again. Why build it twice? In most cases the only velcro should be on the back of your shins.

[kevster[TK]]

Ya, as Gazmosis said, just start with snaps from the beginning. Its not that its accurate, but people who usually use velcro to hold their stuff together find that for some reason it just doesn't do as good as it should. Things will start falling off. For some reason i'm always hearing reports of the butt plate falling off .

 

Second note, I don't think theres anyone out there who didn't hesitate cutting into their armor on their first set. The thing I learned to do is check what I was suppose to do, then just take the plunge and start cutting, but slowly! Eventually it would always turn out better than I expected. I had to do that for every single piece lol

[Trooper1972]

Totally agree with Kevin. Use the snaps straight away. Why do they same job twice... Do it once and do it right

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Okay, thanks guys!

[James[501st]]

I highly recommend a couple pairs of heavy duty scissors from home depot rather than the x-acto for many of your cuts.

 

I used these,

-----------

 

I use a dremel as well as x-acto or box-cutters regularly, but the thought of the OH CRAP moment with the armor made me opt for these scissors. They worked really really well and you can totally control what you're doing.

 

Also for me anyway, measure twice cut once didn't work. I measured and measured, re-checking every single cut until I was certain I'd thought of everything. Many, many test fits with blue tape holding things together. So far .. not oh crap moments .. knock on ABS.

 

Hope that helps, good luck!

Edited December 20, 2021 by gmrhodes13
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[James[501st]]

Ya, as Gazmosis said, just start with snaps from the beginning. Its not that its accurate, but people who usually use velcro to hold their stuff together find that for some reason it just doesn't do as good as it should. Things will start falling off. For some reason i'm always hearing reports of the butt plate falling off .

 

Second note, I don't think theres anyone out there who didn't hesitate cutting into their armor on their first set. The thing I learned to do is check what I was suppose to do, then just take the plunge and start cutting, but slowly! Eventually it would always turn out better than I expected. I had to do that for every single piece lol

 

heh .. I used snaps throughout. I was able to make my O2 / TD canister in a way that allowed me to store stuff inside. I opted for a pouch around my neck for $$ and ID etc so I ended up making the canister a trooper medical kit. I packed it with a small pair of scissors, duct tape rolled around a small dowel, black and white velcro (adhesive and non), some black cord and super glue. Turned out on my first troop I needed it as my back plate to kidney plate snaps were failing like crazy. I super glued the ones that were, then I had one plate blow out the snap came right off. Another patch with velcro and I was a-ok for the next three hours. I agree snaps are best in the long term, but having some spare velcro around ain't a bad idea.

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

James, thanks very much! As it happens I bought both those curved scissors and the industrial scissors today, thanks to other posts. I'm glad I did because scoring this stuff is tough. I can't get a ruler to stay straight while I'm cutting, even with all my weight on it. I must push too hard. I did resort to my dremmel, and that's been okay so far.

 

I started with the O2/TD and hand plates because I figured it would be the easiest to make myself if I screwed up, and it gave me a good feel for the plastic and tools. It also leaves me a lot of empty/leftover edging to practice returns. It is hard to tell from the photos about the hand plates' exact edging. I left a little of the side curve so it has some depth, but I don't plan to do a return on that and I don't plan to trim it much more (it's a tiny bit big) as it would make it flat. If it's supposed to be flat (flush) at the edges, then I'll trim a tiny bit more.

 

FUN!

 

QUESTION about the canister: is the whole cylinder white, or just the bit with the controls and the rest is gray (i.e. the back side)?

 

-------

 

I like the idea of using it as a wardrobe kit. I had a tough time at Dragon Con in my costumes between my friend and I falling apart. I carried a kit around in my bag. I was also thinking of making my Mara Jade harness a hidden backpack for such things. under the cloak no one sees it anyway; under the cowl it's half hidden (at least on mine). Smart thinking!

 

I guess I will suck it up and go with snaps! :-)

 

Thanks again!

Edited December 20, 2021 by gmrhodes13
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[James[501st]]

The canister is grey as pictured, the white is in the caps and the panel as you have it.

 

I also got great utility out of a fabric measuring tape as well as a metal ruler with cork on the back available at office depot. It helped as it bends a bit to the contours but the cork gripped pretty well.

[jnnfr72[TK]]

Hey LadyInWhite! How is it going? I think you will do an awesome job. I was worried for the longest time until I decided that if I messed up a part, I'd get another replacement. Expensive, but it made me feel better about cutting. Also, I came across this hidden gem... how to make abs paste. Although, you might already know how to make it?.. I used this a few times. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=2041

From TI 3844:

Here it is, repaired. The smudge is all that's left of the gouge... either the beaker in which I mixed the acetone soup or the stick I used for stirring is cause of the discolourisation.

 

I really don't have pics of the process itself - it was something I came up with in desperation for ruining my new helmet, so I kinda acted fast. I didn't really write down the process either, so the below stuff is from the top of my head. Essentially, it goes down like this:

 

1) Cut thin, short strips of matching ABS into a (clean) cup or similar. A glass vessel is preferred! Don't go pouring acetone into a plastic cup...

2) Carefully pour acetone so the fluid covers the ABS shards. Go easy on the acetone - add a little at a lime instead of drowning the ABS shards. We're talking really small amounts of the stuff here - a couple of thimbles worth of shards and acetone.

3) Wait. Depending on the thickness of the ABS pieces, acetone dissolvation time might vary. Check progress every now and then, stir a little with a (clean) rod or stick. Apply more acetone if plastic won't dissolve in a satisfactory way. Go easy on the acetone though - you want a runny, but not watery substance

4) When the acetone/ABS concoction is a bit on the runny side, begin applying to damaged area on armour or helmet. Easy does it - make sure you fill the gouge properly.

5) When happy with the results, leave alone and let the acetone dissolve fully. ABS hardens and fuses with your armor/helmet. Regarding drying time, it depends on amount of ABS goo used and size of damaged area. YMMW.

 

If your ABS milk is runny enough, it will just fill the damaged area - no need to sand. Still, if you get a bump, sand it down with fine-grit sandpaper, buff out the rest with Novus, and you're done!

 

What else... oh - one must remember that acetone starts dissolving right away, so one must keep an eye on the process all the time, and when the mixture is done, use it right away to repair the armour/helmet.

 

And, as Smitty pointed out, this stuff is really flammable and generally unhealthy. Be careful!

 

Hope this helps, guys.

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Awesome, thanks Jenny! I've made a few scratches with the scissors but so far nothing you could even see, but I saw on yours how you filled in some gaps like the ab plate edges so I am sure this will come in handy for all of it!

 

And as tiring as it is, I've been cutting/trimming away... (no throwing up)

 

Next question: I have AP armor. My ab plate seems a little warped, like it's not flush equally on left and right. Is that perhaps from shipping, or is that normal... and is it something I should heat and bend to be a little more balanced, or not worth it? It doesn't look bad in the mirror, far as I can tell, but it sure feels a little odd.

 

Also the ab plate is pretty long. I have a long torso for a woman but it still (while attached to the cod piece) comes up to my breasts, not quite mid-chest where it looks like it lands on the guys. So I am thinking I need to shorten the cod piece so that the ab sits lower. It doesn't seem like the ab piece could be trimmed except maybe at the top (where it's under the chest piece)?

 

Am I just over-thinking things? I just want to make sure it's going to fit and look right.

 

Cheers!

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Abs, chest, cod, butt, kidney, back all sized & cut, just need edging. Shoulder bells & biceps cut, sized, taped. Getting better at cutting and trimming.

 

Had to trim some of the bottom of the cod piece and top of the abs. Might need to trim abs more but seems okay for the moment. When I start the snaps I'll get it perfecto. Butt plate not currently lining up top to bottom of kidney, I think because my butt is bigger than most guys and it tilts it a bit. Guess I really need to work out! In that case, I should enlarge my bicep pieces a bit...

 

The cat fell asleep among my pieces. So much for avoiding static cling, especially when sanding.

 

[jnnfr72[TK]]

Awesome, thanks Jenny! I've made a few scratches with the scissors but so far nothing you could even see, but I saw on yours how you filled in some gaps like the ab plate edges so I am sure this will come in handy for all of it!

 

And as tiring as it is, I've been cutting/trimming away... (no throwing up)

 

Next question: I have AP armor. My ab plate seems a little warped, like it's not flush equally on left and right. Is that perhaps from shipping, or is that normal... and is it something I should heat and bend to be a little more balanced, or not worth it? It doesn't look bad in the mirror, far as I can tell, but it sure feels a little odd.

 

Also the ab plate is pretty long. I have a long torso for a woman but it still (while attached to the cod piece) comes up to my breasts, not quite mid-chest where it looks like it lands on the guys. So I am thinking I need to shorten the cod piece so that the ab sits lower. It doesn't seem like the ab piece could be trimmed except maybe at the top (where it's under the chest piece)?

 

Am I just over-thinking things? I just want to make sure it's going to fit and look right.

 

Cheers!

My ab plate was warped, too. Must be just how AP is???? It doesn't seem to show when you close the sides, though.

[James[501st]]

I'd worry about the warps last if at all. Wait and see how it all comes together first.

[jnnfr72[TK]]

Abs, chest, cod, butt, kidney, back all sized & cut, just need edging. Shoulder bells & biceps cut, sized, taped. Getting better at cutting and trimming.

 

Had to trim some of the bottom of the cod piece and top of the abs. Might need to trim abs more but seems okay for the moment. When I start the snaps I'll get it perfecto. Butt plate not currently lining up top to bottom of kidney, I think because my butt is bigger than most guys and it tilts it a bit. Guess I really need to work out! In that case, I should enlarge my bicep pieces a bit...

 

The cat fell asleep among my pieces. So much for avoiding static cling, especially when sanding.

 

Howdy! I had the same issue when trying to fit the butt and kidney. I kind of held them in mid-air and taped both inside and outside, and they lined up enough for me to mark where I wanted to put snaps. I speak for the guys who think it might not be PC to tell you that your butt is just FINE! I think my butt plate wanted to tilt, too but once you get everything strapped on and tightened up, it is ok.

[stormtrooperguy[501st]]

The ab plate being warped is normal... I've had a few different TKs that are derived from original suits and they've all been pretty funky in the ab area.

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Good to hear that this is normal, thanks everyone. Back to cutting

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Forearms... MAJOR FITTING PAIN IN THE BUTT PLATE! Especially with my "girly" forearms. Had to do a little tapering and a lot of trimming. Thank goodness for shims...and padding... let's hope I don't blow it when I fix my edges up. It's already causing bite so I have a lot of edge work to do.

 

Bottom edge of forearm has NO return, correct? Only on top?

[darksideemt]

 

Bottom edge of forearm has NO return, correct? Only on top?

Correct or none to very little on top.

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Hey, all. I'm getting along fine so far, just slooooow going, hour here and there. Will post pics and full build thread soon when i get organized. (This isn't my build thread. What a horrible title! Okay maybe it could be.

 

ANYWAY, question of the day is: Helmet - paint or decals? My helmet came with stickers but I fear they may look a little glossy-cheapo. Is paint preferred or does it really not matter?

 

Also, what do you guys usually use to punch out the holes for the teeth? Drill + dremmel? Something like that?

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Decals can be fine if used properly. My suggestion: use decals to get approved, practice hand painting the details on scrap plastic then later when you have finished your build and want to apply for EIB or Centurion, paint the details by hand.

 

For the teeth some people like to drill them out and file them or Dremel them out. I use a smalll drum to grind down the backside, then clean up the oval shapes with a tooling bit or sharp hobby blade / file.

 

My helmet build thread:

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Edited December 20, 2021 by gmrhodes13
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[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Awesome helmet build thread, thanks, Terry!

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Next Question!

 

Is the left shin's ankle area slightly narrower than the right area? I am guessing this is either a pull discrepancy, or it's because the right inner and left outer are different. So all things cut "along the lines" so far, the right ankle is fat or has a little flare at the inner bottom and the left ankle is a little less fat.

 

I just want to make sure that's okay! You can't really tell from pictures.

 

Thanks!

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Just an update, I feel like this is taking forever. My own fault, too much going on. I have the rest of the week off... let's see if I can get this done!

 

All that's really left is belt, bucket, and a few more snaps on the body. The rest is looking good. Though it's just a pile of plastic on the guest bed, not very photogenic.

 

Then I'll be ready to submit... and afterward a little more detailing. I'm hoping it'll be EIB from the start but if not it'll be close.

 

I am able to keep most of the return edges that are in the pulls but a few that don't have it like the shoulders and my neckline. However, I've tried and tried to use the sealing iron technique and either get warping or no effect at all. Any other thoughts on that would be appreciated. My husband said I should use the heat gun first but it also tends to warp.

 

I can't wait to get out there and see a few others up close now that I'm looking from a whole new perspective. Thanks to everyone for all the amazing info posted all over the place and all the questions answered.

[Star Raider[TK]]

Looks like your doing great! Don't rush near the end though! Keep the consistent excellent grade your doing already! I bought my armor around the same time as you and I'm still sizing, making adjustments and making sure everything is done right... That being said, most of it is all sized and ready to go, just need to do small attachments and final adjustments...

 

Here's my build thread, its ROTJ, So there are differences in the armor, but how I attach things might help--------

Edited December 20, 2021 by gmrhodes13
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