lmr Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 Never saw that one coming did you? Well I decided the blaster was as good a place to start as any, and at a friend's recommendation I decided to buy a Hasbro and then convert it. Doopydoos kit has been ordered, but to tide me over as I wait I decided to do some of the stuff I've seen in other build threads. Namely take out those weird red things from the shroud, get rid of the scope front, nip the tip, and sand off the fun little FCC compliance statement and friends. I would have liked to drill in that extra set of holes in the shroud, but I found myself happened by a crippling combination of laziness and worry. Worry about the inability to take the damn thing apart, thanks to that infernal back of the scope. Its wedged on there tighter than... tighter than a thing that's really tight. So in the absence of drilling, I decided to have fun hollowing out that scope rail and the front sights. This was my very first time using my new dremel, but I'm reasonably pleased with it. Now take a look at the pics please and let me know what I'm doing right and what I'm doing wrong. Your opinions are always welcome, unless your opinion is that I'm a jerk (In which case: pffft, you don't even KNOW me.) Quote
darksideemt Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 you can get the scope end off fairly easy. I just used a screwdriver and a hammer and just keep hitting around the edges. It will eventually come off. You have to hit it pretty hard but it's not as hard as it seams. I started just the same way, good luck. Quote
adamwankenobi Posted October 1, 2011 Report Posted October 1, 2011 The Doopydoos kit is amazingly easy to adhere to the Hasbro blaster. And even though the Hasbro retrofit is shorter than the original Sterling, it still looks great. Quote
TD-3425 Posted October 1, 2011 Report Posted October 1, 2011 Hey speaking of the Doopydoos kit, mine is on it's way this week. Whats the best way to adhere the pieces to the plastic hasbro gun, ABS / plastic weld? Quote
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted October 1, 2011 Report Posted October 1, 2011 Hey speaking of the Doopydoos kit, mine is on it's way this week. Whats the best way to adhere the pieces to the plastic hasbro gun, ABS / plastic weld? E-6000 is the glue you seek... you just can't be in a rush I tried JB weld, 3M DP-1080, DP-460, CA, System 3 epoxy, standard 5 minute epoxy and more... and the easiest to work with is E-6000. Long open time, slightly flexible when cured, and easy to re-do if need be. Aloha, -Eric Quote
lmr Posted October 1, 2011 Author Report Posted October 1, 2011 Good thing I stocked up on E6000 then eh? Nothing quite like having a project underway. I'll be sure to post more pics up as I get things done. Quote
lmr Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Posted October 20, 2011 All right, after much waiting my doopydoos kit finally shipped and I set to the task of attaching it. I'm waiting on the front until I can paint it separately and attach it, don't want to get paint on the little blinky light. Here are the results. Quote
HockeyTrooper[TK] Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 I covered my blinky light with some plastic from a ziplock bag that I cut to pieces. I wanted to use plastic wrap but did not have any. Looking good so far! Also, I have heard it is good to sand all the plastic down a little to help with paint adhering to the surfaces. Good luck! Quote
darksideemt Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 Sadly you didn't put the t-track on the right side back far enough. the front hole should be open, otherwise looks great. Quote
lmr Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Posted October 20, 2011 Luckily you're here to tell me these things! Simple enough to fix. Quote
lmr Posted October 21, 2011 Author Report Posted October 21, 2011 All right, here it is all finished. Quote
darksideemt Posted October 22, 2011 Report Posted October 22, 2011 Looks good! Just curious as to what made you go for the flat black? Good job on the weathering! Quote
lmr Posted October 22, 2011 Author Report Posted October 22, 2011 Well, it comes from a combination of pure personal preference (I tend to steer clear of shiny things, especially true of guns) and the selection of paints available. This flat black bonded directly to plastic, no need for primer. Also it was on sale. All good things. This stuff costs money after all, and every dollar I can save in one area I can spend in another. Still have to get a holster, boots, gloves, and a neck seal. Thanks on the weathering. Looks like my childhood spent building model tanks has paid off. Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted October 22, 2011 Report Posted October 22, 2011 I'd say that flat black is true blaster coloring. if you really wanted to hit the mark a little closer you'd weather the front of the hengstler counter with some brass, and the scope with brass, except for the rear ring. pretty nice so far! Quote
bam Posted October 29, 2011 Report Posted October 29, 2011 Looks great! What type and brand of paint did you use? Quote
lmr Posted November 7, 2011 Author Report Posted November 7, 2011 So sorry for not getting back to you on that promptly, I totally didn't notice more posts here. >.< Krylon camouflage ultra-flat black. Bonds directly to plastic. Quote
senna1rossi[TK] Posted December 1, 2011 Report Posted December 1, 2011 E-6000 is the glue you seek... you just can't be in a rush I tried JB weld, 3M DP-1080, DP-460, CA, System 3 epoxy, standard 5 minute epoxy and more... and the easiest to work with is E-6000. Long open time, slightly flexible when cured, and easy to re-do if need be. Aloha, -Eric so it's stronger than an epoxy? wouldn't resin pieces pop off if you drop the blaster using E-6000? Quote
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