NAZGÛL Posted August 18, 2011 Report Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) Hey gang. So I recently decided my TIE Pilot needs an E11 and I went for the Doopydoos full kit. Im totally happy with it, and building it is great fun. No problem with the casting and everything looks sharp. I love the beaten up look of some Sterling conversions. Heres a few pics of my build up so far: Cheers Edited August 28, 2011 by NAZGÛL Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted August 19, 2011 Report Posted August 19, 2011 nice inner bolt. some minor suggestions: should all be silver gunmetal, and the spring should be smaller in dia with more loops. very nice attention to detail!! Quote
sskunky Posted August 19, 2011 Report Posted August 19, 2011 Is the bolt available as a resin cast? I was thinking of casting up a bolt to offer for resin builds to add that accurate look. But if it's already available then there's no point. Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted August 19, 2011 Report Posted August 19, 2011 I think that in the case of doopydoo it's cast together with the receiver, and thus not movable. I think that a separate bold would be a cool addition to any kit. Might be able to get some cool cocking action. Quote
kevster[TK] Posted August 19, 2011 Report Posted August 19, 2011 On the full resin kit, the bolt is cast with the receiver, but in the pipe kit, its a separate part that fits down inside but doesn't have the length of a real sterling bolt. Its just big enough to cover the ejection port and put the cocking lever on it and isn't any longer than that. I don't think anyone makes resin bolts in full, so its a possibility sskunky. Quote
NAZGÛL Posted August 20, 2011 Author Report Posted August 20, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the comments! I didnt paint anything yet, and do plan for silver for the inner bolt. I think the spring thickness looks pretty close. Its sturdy and sits tight anyway so Im happy with it. It was hard to get the right amount of loops as the small inner tube of the doopys makes it tight to fit. Instead of 11:ish I got 8:ish loops. The inner plastic tube on doobys full kit makes resin bolts undoable IMO. I made some progress on it. Some metal work. I know its to thin, but really easy to work with with the tools I have. Also found a great old metal piece for the rail. Rusty and nice for the look Im after. Cheers Edited August 20, 2011 by NAZGÛL Quote
NAZGÛL Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Posted August 22, 2011 (edited) Thanks mate! Ok, I got all parts on. Im really found of the clean look without the counter and cylinders. I dont care what anyone says, they are all over ANH so they are SA: The rail could have got a longer edge holding the front, if its not holding up I make a new rail. Glued on two somewhat more manly bolt heads sitting on top of the screws holding the scope. Edited August 22, 2011 by NAZGÛL Quote
NAZGÛL Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) After making a more correct mag plate it was finally time for the fun: paint! Here is what I did: 1. Primer, it went on well and got a good grip. (I had been a good boy and cleaned the kit parts earlyer.) The cast quality is overall good, but the end cap have some dents. 2. Silver coat. I went for a silver were the metallic effect wasnt to obvious. 3. Gold on the scope. This is more dark then the pic shows, but its still to golden compaired to the real scopes. I will only make small scratches and add weathering so it will do fine.Now its time to mask the parts that will stay silver (spring etc). I used masking tape and masking fluid. 4. Black coat. I used flat on the gun and glossy on the scope and handle. I made sure the paints are compatible before painting. 5. Weathering. Peel off the masking. Gently use sand paper to make the blaster to look worn and let the metal come through. I used different papers, soft and heavy. I also used a wire brush to get random scratches. Do this in small steps. Try to get the look as if it had been from real life beating. I look at reference all the time when doing this as its easy to get it wrong. Dont mess with the t-track as they should look plastic. After that its a lot of washes. I used gray and rusty brown washes of acrylic model paint. Dont go all over, but do some parts. Like the sanding do it in small steps. Make different amount on different parts, some more rusty, some less. Again go for reference to get what you are after. Heres the scope. I added white for the ingraved text, based on how the original scope looked. I wanted the grip to look like worn plastic. Its glossy black with flat washes and some strokes. Its also gently sanded to get a vintage look. I made the dent in the stock deeper (but not to much as it would become brittle. The effect turned out ok. I also tried to make the stock look more rusty. And here it is worn by a dead serious trooper! "Let me see your identification!" Hope this can be of some help if anyone feels like doing a beat up sterling paint job. Cheers Edited August 26, 2011 by NAZGÛL Quote
MartinSivertsen[501st] Posted August 26, 2011 Report Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) It turned out really nice! Great weathering, and I also love that you replaced the front sight with a more accurate one. Edited August 26, 2011 by MartinSivertsen Quote
NAZGÛL Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Posted August 26, 2011 Cheers! Yeah the sight turned out ok. Next time Ill try thicker metal. It will be cool when we can look at our blasters side by side. Quote
MartinSivertsen[501st] Posted August 26, 2011 Report Posted August 26, 2011 Yeah, that would be awesome! I'll start finishing my TK now and start trooping soon Quote
DarthChridan[TK] Posted August 26, 2011 Report Posted August 26, 2011 Cool...great work on it.. Quote
NAZGÛL Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) Thanks! I took a few more pics this afternoon: Edited August 26, 2011 by NAZGÛL Quote
DarthChridan[TK] Posted August 26, 2011 Report Posted August 26, 2011 Well, you used a fine brush for the ingraved text?!?..or what? Quote
NAZGÛL Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Posted August 26, 2011 Nah, just cover the whole letter area with white acrylic paint slightly thinned with water. Let it dry a few seconds and simply wipe it off gently with a wet cloth. Quote
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