Doopydoos all resin E-11 build

[Locitus[Admin]]

That is sweet!

[NAZGÛL]

Looks great!

[Rolf[501st]]

Looks really great!, nice work on the small details.

Keep up the good work

[DarthChridan[TK]]

Hey Martin...

that's a great idea with the rear bolt

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

And here it is, all primed and ready for paint.

There's probably a few small tweaks I could have done, but I have to say enough is enough. I want to see this blaster finished now

 

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Painted the scope.

The color is a lot more golden and yellow than this picture depicts.

And check out the detail on these scopes!

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Finished!

I like the "used" look so I weathered a little on the rough side. Nothing too much, just enough to give it some realism.

[mondas42]

Wow, looks awesome. I have just ordered one of these kits and will be trying to emulate your success with your build.

[Locitus[Admin]]

No spring?

 

Either way, this is one of the nicest finshed doopydoo kit's I've seen.

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

I'll add the spring and wires from cylinders to counter later.

Need to focus on finishing the suit for now

 

Thank you very much for the kind words!

Edited August 26, 2011 by MartinSivertsen

[NAZGÛL]

Looks great! Well done on making an awesome E-11!

[ZacMuleer[TK]]

Absolutely awesome build. I'll definitely have this build up as I try to replicate your success!

[Angevine[TK]]

Amazing!

 

I'm going to have to buy another one now and try to replicate this!

Edited September 2, 2011 by Angevine

[DarthChridan[TK]]

Now for the rear bolt.

I have spent waaay longer time on this build than I could have, but I just have been taking my time and enjoying the build.

Trying to make it a little more accurate here and there. There are of course a lot more that could have been done on this build, that's the beauty of building with resin, it's so easily customizable.

 

I used the cap from a pen to make an inner bolt basis. The inner diameter of the doopydoos is about 22mm, and the cap is closer to 20mm, so not a really snug fit, but as close as I got without going out and buying something else.

TK8505 works in plastic, so he volunteered to fill the cap with plastic, to make it solid, which was very practial and worked out really well.

 

Used a small piece of wood which I filed and sanded down to fit into the rail

 

Then I found a piece of plastic which I layed over the rail/hole and drew and cut out on to make the continuation of the strip on the ejector port

 

Drilled small holes on the two pieces and installed small pins to hold them securely in place.

I ended up mounting all the pins in the piece of wood, or else I wouldn't be able to insert the pen cap inside the blaster before assembling the pieces together.

 

Drilled a small hole in the cocking handle and another hole through the piece of wood and into the cap having a long pin going into the cocking handle and well into the other two pieces, so it can really take a beating and be pulled without risk of anything coming loose.

 

Then I actually superglued the cocking handle deep on the pin, and glued that to the piece of wood. Notice I've also glued on the piece of plastic that's going to resemble the continuation of the strip on the ejector port.

 

Here's how it looks mounted together

 

And here it is with the cap inside the blaster and the woodpiece with cockinghandle inserted securely making it a functioning sliding cocking handle with rear bolt.

 

Now I can actually insert a spring and screw the endcap on, and the spring will push the bolt forward.

Hey Martin...

how did you get the complete bolt rear into the blaster?!?!

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

I made it so the two parts are detachable from eachother.

I inserted the cylinder bit first, and just pushed the long bit with the cocking handle into the slot and the pins securely into the cylinder bit.

If you understand what i mean.

I haven't glued them together. Yet. Hehe.

[DarthChridan[TK]]

I made it so the two parts are detachable from eachother.

I inserted the cylinder bit first, and just pushed the long bit with the cocking handle into the slot and the pins securely into the cylinder bit.

If you understand what i mean.

I haven't glued them together. Yet. Hehe.

Ääääh....no

If the charging handle is pushed into the slot with the cylinter, how did you get the cylinder on the pins?!?!?!?....in the slot

I've glued the charging handle on the rear bolt now....

 

Edit: Ok...now i unterstand what you mean....

...you have the cylinder accurately adapted to the slot!?!

I adjusted the lever in the rail/slot....as you can see on my pic.

Edited September 5, 2011 by DarthChridan

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

That looks good!

[Rolf[501st]]

Looks nice and accurate, good work.

Congrats and enjoy

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Thanks Rolf!

[Woulf[TK]]

very nice build!

 

my kit was just purchased this morning. will definatly be using yours as a referance. the detailing you did was just right, enough to make it look very real, but not over the top. i like it.

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

I just fitted wires between the hengstler and powercylinders on my resin E-11, might as well show a few pictures of it while we wait.

PS: There are still lots of things I want to modify/change for accuracys sake, for example putting a pin in the front sight, so it looks more like this:

Pictures from the excellent blog: http://sterlingblasterconversion.blogspot.com/

 

And then I'd like to drill out the holes under the folding stock, as Rolf has done with his resin build.

Find a more accurate spring, and modify the rear bolt, so it sits better (it's not as tight as I want it to be).

Drill out the scope and fit it with lenses (or something that look like it).

I have a M19 scope bronze-resin cast on it's way from TK-4702 in the mail, that might be a nice project to do something like that with.

 

Further down the road I might do a pipe.build or something more accurate. I love tinkering with and modifying the blaster!

 

Well now, pics:

 

 

 

 

 

[Locitus[Admin]]

Some people use a flat head screwdriver bit for that. Just a suggestion.

Edited October 31, 2011 by Locitus

[darksideemt]

Wow! I must say this has got to be the best Doopy's build thread I have seen. Both with the details you put into the build and your great tutorial job. The whole time the one thing I was going to suggest, that I don't see a lot of people do, was to drill out the holes underneath in the folding stock, and then you go and put that on your "to do list" today. When the day comes for me to do my full resin kit, as I have a conversion now, I hope mine comes out remotely as good as your's.

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Thank you Travis, I appreciate that

 

And Mathias, I don't know if I want to sacrifice a screwdriver bit for the occasion, or buy a new one.

I'll let that stew for a little while and probably end up sacrificing the bit I have. Slim chance that I'll be using it anyway, most screws nowadays are either torx or pozidrive, so I can probably live without a flat head bit

[Locitus[Admin]]

Those bits are quite cheap, so you can get a replacement bit easy. Unless every tool you got is the ferrari of its kind.