Doopydoos all resin E-11 build

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

While waiting for my armor from TM, I decided to start building the E-11

Bought myself a kit from Doopydoos, all resin and very cheap, considering the alternatives and how accurate this kit is.

The kit is great in accuracy and detail, though a few things like scoperail and internal stuff (spring, rear bolt and barrel) aren't included, though I don't really have a problem with that, thinking that it's easy to aquire elsewhere.

 

Seeing as the kit is resin, it's easy to file away at parts to modify them, something I've spent some time doing.

I decided to put it together using E6000 feeling it would turn out strong and hold up well to trooping (hopefully).

The joints take a while to cure so this is not something you throw together in the course of a day. I've spent four days now, tinkering with it for a few hours at a time, letting the glued parts really set before starting on new ones.

 

I come so far that I'm only missing the scope, hengstler, cocking handle (which hopefully will be mounted to an inner rear bolt of some kind) and fitting the rear endcap.

 

I will try to make it as accurate as I can with the tools I have at my disposal, and I must say that the set of needle files have really come to good use!

 

Here come the pictures:

 

First the layout of all the parts:

 

The first thing I fitted was the grip:

 

Roughing up the surface to be glued using a needle file to score a grid pattern (something I do on all to be glued surfaces):

 

Making sure it's completely at an angle:

 

Securing it tight with two F-clamps (notice I forgot to put the cap back on the E6000 in the heat of the moment):

 

Then come the front sight. This is how it came in the kit.

I was going to file and fit it a great deal to make it look a little more accurate:

 

It didn't sit completely flush so I tried to file it to a better fit, not getting it completely flush, but a little tighter.

Anyway the glue eliminates minor stuff like that, and I might go back with some putty around all the glued pieces to make a nice clean "weld":

 

Clamped it tight, and went a little overborad on the glue, but that's easily remedied after it has dried, removing the excess with an exacto or similar.

 

Then I glued on the small disc on the mag reciever/holder:

 

The seam on the folding stock wasn't that tight:

 

So I tried to file it to a better fit:

 

Resin dust this far into the build:

 

Then came the trigger and triggerguard, I found that a rubber band was sufficient to hold it in place here:

 

Glued magazine to mag reciecer:

 

Folding stock, also found that a rubber band was sufficient and best to hold it in place here:

 

Same with the ejection port cover thingy:

Edited July 10, 2011 by MartinSivertsen

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Then come the project of removing the inaccurate bolts at the very front replacing them with real ones.

First I put an indentation in the centre for the drillbit to keep centered.:

 

Hollowed it out some more:

 

Filed, drilled and scored with an exacto until I was satisfied.

The black PVC pipe inside gave a great deal of resistance, so I fiddle a while with that:

 

Then came dinner home at my parents in-law and I asked the father there if he had some 10mm allen screws laying around,

and wouldn't you believe it, he even cut off the bolt and filed them flat for me. Freebies!

 

Time to glue on the front of the folding stock:

 

Tried rubberbands, but found it had a hard time keeping the stock centered, so I opted for an F-vice, also glued on the mag holder at the same time.

Now might also be a good time to mention the blue towel I used for laying the blaster nicely to rest while the glued parts cured:

 

These are the parts I am left with at this time:

 

I wanted to hollow out the end of the rear lock a bit more:

 

We come to a problem: The end cap is supposed to have three square bits fitting tightly into the grooves of the rear end, but the square bits on my endcap are practically non-existant:

 

I cut out three small square pieces from a spare piece of 1,5mm plastic I had, made sure they fit into the grooves on the back and glued them in place in the end cap.

Realized the day after, that I had glued them too far back in the end cap (I had glued them directly above the "non-existant" bits, but) apparently they should be a little bit more towards the edge if they are to be functional and the end cap can be fitted into postition.

Measured it out and fitted them again:

 

Then i glued on the rear sight, and this was a real "female dog" to get centered. Felt like i had to adjust it fifty times before I was completely happy. And don't anybody come here and tell me that it's on the wrong way now, because this is final! Hehe.

 

That's as far as I have come right now.

 

I felt the time was right to share the build now, to easier get some input on the continuation; getting and fitting a scope rail and details like that. Not to mention the paint job and such.

 

Hope all the pictures and inane details don't put you off.

Edited July 10, 2011 by MartinSivertsen

[JKCHEN]

very detail~~good build! will be a wonderful tutorial thread. nice job~

[LJJNL]

Looks great! Thanks for the pictures, I'm looking into the Doopydoos kit and your pictures perfectly show the details of the parts!

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

No problem, part of why I'm documenting this build in such detail is that a buddy of mine wants to start a build of his own soon, and to share it with y'all here as well is a pleasure.

I'm just waiting for vern to show up and talk about inner barrel and spring; don't worry, I'll get to that.

 

Might need some input on the fixing of the scope rail. I'm thinking about filing a small notch in the hole where the top t-track is secured (I should say "secured" as it's moulded together with the pipe..) and glueing it in there. I see a few just bend the rail and screw it down at both ends, as opposed to just screwing it down at the back.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Great build Martin!

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Thank you, Mathias

[davesb[501st]]

This is going to be excellent reference for my build when I start. Thanks, Great work

[seantrooper[TK]]

Great build! Makes me really want to get one now

 

(spring, rear bolt and barrel) aren't included

 

one quick question... What exactly is the rear bolt? (a photo would help )

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

I believe this is the rear bolt, it's really a part of the ejector port piece extending so far back that you see it through the cocking channel, along with the rear spring.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Edited July 11, 2011 by MartinSivertsen

[gazmosis[501st]]

Martin is correct on the rear bolt issue.

I love that you took the time to hollow out the details that need it like the folding stock catch at the rear of the blaster and the front sight. Nice attention to detail!!

Whatever you get for your top rail, make sure its got a little backbone to it. Even though your scope is resin, it will bend a light rail.

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

I was thinking about getting a 3mm steel flat iron and following the great (but three years old) tutorial by Billhag here.

 

Other than that, I'm leaving for vacation in 36 hours and will be gone for two weeks, so I don't think I'll get much more done before that time...

Edited July 11, 2011 by MartinSivertsen

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

nice job!

 

all you need is the inner bolt, inner barrel, and inner spring!

the sight rail is good with 3/4" aluminum flat bar 1/8" thick.

I make my hengstler brackets out of sheet metal and bend by hand.

 

nice use of the clamps.

I've used e-6000 before on blasters, so I know it's a good fit!

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

One thing about the rear bolt: The outer diameter of the pipe is 37,5mm (~1,5in), but the inner diameter is just 22mm (0.86in), due to the thickness of the pipe being roughly 8mm (0.3in), so the inner barrel has to be significantly smaller in diameter than the rest of the pipe, and that would look "off" if it's going to simulate an extention of the ejection port.

 

If you understand what I mean:

 

The white resin itself is 6mm and the black PVC inner tube adds another 2mm.

Had it been a metal tube, I think the thickness would be 2mm at most and that would look a lot more natural if I were to include a rear bolt, instead of having it suddenly being deep inside the pipe as the case is going to be here..

Edited July 11, 2011 by MartinSivertsen

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

I think I had a great idea on the bus here on my way to the airport.

If i get an inner/rear bolt PVC bit about 2in long put it inside where it's supposed to be, and then(!) Glue on a 6mm (or so) thick slim piece on top of the rear bolt, inside the cocking channel.

It might look as if the rear bolt is actually a lot thicker than it is.

 

I'll try that when I get home.

[DarthChridan[TK]]

Hey...

really interesting threat...i like such builds.

...you make a good job so far

Cheers...

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Found metal for a scope rail and made myself one, and have still got metal enough for five more rails, if anyone with a doopydoos would like one.

The metal itself is 3mm thick 20mm wide and (cut down to) 26cm long. I consider it perfect for the job.

I've gotten a little sidetracked with building armor now, but will surely continue on this along the way.

I might finish the blasterbuild tomorrow as I might visit the parents in-law and get access to a lot of tools, and then only painting and weathering is left. I'll post pics of the progress when the time comes.

 

I have been using Billhags tutorial as a guide http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4697

 

 

 

A lot of cutting later:

 

Two lenghts of rail:

 

Measuring out:

 

Scored the metal for bending:

 

After bending and cutting:

 

Routed a hole for the rail to be mounted:

 

 

Done:

 

All that's left now is to drill holes for bolts at the rear and for the scope, and to make a simple holder for the counter.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Looks great! Keep it up!

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Finished the rail and had made a simple hengstlerholder from temlplates made by Billhag.

I'm also a good way along with the inner bolt, just need to clean it up and make it ready for assembly and paint, shooting to get that ready by sunday.

Pictures coming soon.

[DarthChridan[TK]]

I'm looking forward to the pics...i get my doopydoos blaster soon as well.

I am bored ...i need something to tinker

[TFDarkside]

Looks great. How strong is the resin?

 

Specifically, I think that in addition to a metal sight rail, I would like a functional folding stock. Is that feasible on a Doopy resin build?

 

Any thoughts?

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Hi Tim!

As far as sturdiness goes, I just don't know yet. I haven't dropped it on the floor, but seeing as it is resin, and glued together, I expect it to maybe loose a few pieces if that happens. It will never be as sturdy as a full metal blaster or a hyperfirm (foam rubber) one. So it may not be the ideal blaster if you're planning on handling it rough (throwing it around and letting it have a beating).

But as I've mentioned before, seeing as it may be the cheapest alternative, along with being one of the most accurate ones too (and a fun build!) you really can't go wrong with one of these kits.

 

On the functional folding stock: It would very well be feasible on a doopydoos, just replace the resin one with a metal one, add a few bolts and stuff and you're good to go. BUT! If you are going to spend that much time on modding it, you might as well go for a pipe-build, and customizing it even further, maybe add a blastercore (sounds and light), seeing as the doopydoo-kit is (I believe) too narrow inside to fit a soundboard..

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

The build is now done, after a few workshops and tinkering to get a functioning inner bolt, which turned out great!

Only things left now are gluing on the powercylinders and finding a spring to go behind the rear bolt and then only paint and weathering is left. I'll try to go for a realistic paint job with nice weathering.

 

I used Billhags tutorial http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4697&st=0 for both the scope rail and hengstler holder.

Nice, simple design.

I found it best, both aesthetically and functionally to have the scope rail fit into a thin socket (vent hole) at the front, and screwed down at the back.

Making a very small bend at the metalbit going into the vent hole at the front helps it stay completely secure after screwing it down at the back.

 

First i drilled the holes for the scope (and hengstler) and countersunk the hole at the back so the screw i used layed flush.

 

Then we cut out a hengstler holder from the simple template from Billhags tutorial.

TK8505 from the local garrison who has been inviting to a weekly workshop at his workplace, having lots of tools and materials at his disposal here doing the grinding. These workshops have made the build a LOT easier by having everything I need accessible when and if I need it.

 

Bent it and drilled holes for the screws.

 

As goes for all the screwholes used on mouting the scope, scoperail and hengstler, I drilled slightly smaller holes than the screws (0.5mm) and the machine screws made the threads themselves and sit snugly in the resin.

 

Completed scope rail and hengstler bracket (with my helmet in progress behind, and a Boba Fett helmet belonging to one of the other guys in the garrison.)

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Now for the rear bolt.

I have spent waaay longer time on this build than I could have, but I just have been taking my time and enjoying the build.

Trying to make it a little more accurate here and there. There are of course a lot more that could have been done on this build, that's the beauty of building with resin, it's so easily customizable.

 

I used the cap from a pen to make an inner bolt basis. The inner diameter of the doopydoos is about 22mm, and the cap is closer to 20mm, so not a really snug fit, but as close as I got without going out and buying something else.

TK8505 works in plastic, so he volunteered to fill the cap with plastic, to make it solid, which was very practial and worked out really well.

 

Used a small piece of wood which I filed and sanded down to fit into the rail

 

Then I found a piece of plastic which I layed over the rail/hole and drew and cut out on to make the continuation of the strip on the ejector port

 

Drilled small holes on the two pieces and installed small pins to hold them securely in place.

I ended up mounting all the pins in the piece of wood, or else I wouldn't be able to insert the pen cap inside the blaster before assembling the pieces together.

 

Drilled a small hole in the cocking handle and another hole through the piece of wood and into the cap having a long pin going into the cocking handle and well into the other two pieces, so it can really take a beating and be pulled without risk of anything coming loose.

 

Then I actually superglued the cocking handle deep on the pin, and glued that to the piece of wood. Notice I've also glued on the piece of plastic that's going to resemble the continuation of the strip on the ejector port.

 

Here's how it looks mounted together

 

And here it is with the cap inside the blaster and the woodpiece with cockinghandle inserted securely making it a functioning sliding cocking handle with rear bolt.

 

Now I can actually insert a spring and screw the endcap on, and the spring will push the bolt forward.

[steinandre[501st]]

This will be oen kick an impolite person e-11. Lookinf forward to seeing some paint on it.

 

SteinA