Stormy320 Posted July 30, 2011 Report Posted July 30, 2011 Looking awesome. What do you use for the scribbly wires? Quote
Marv Posted July 31, 2011 Author Report Posted July 31, 2011 The wires pictured above are on my SDS blaster. However, I have just brought a Nokia phone charger for the ridiculous sum of 25 whole pence at WHSmiths (retailers in the UK), the wire on that is coiled I was simply going to use that if it fits. The SDS wire is pretty rigid stuff no idea really at what it is though. I'm just waiting on some cylinders from Russ but I don't think his latest run is going to start any time soon, so I may consider making my own, that is unless I can get a set from somewhere else? Little gutted its 1am in the morning and someone has just outbid me by $2.50 on an M47 scope, gutting ...oh well back to bed. Quote
Marv Posted July 31, 2011 Author Report Posted July 31, 2011 nice job john! if you tie the tracks down with a rope you should be able to heat them flush. Hi Vern, how do you go about heating up the track does the rope not mark the track when it hot? Quote
Marv Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Posted October 23, 2011 Its been a little while since I added anything to this thread. To be honest not much has changed I've still to paint my scope rails and counters. Russ's cylinders are still on his to do list... However, thought I'd share this. My new upgrade I have after a long search found what I had long been looking for an M38 1942 scope (No 7) Though it has one feature which I think is relatively unique, and was wandering had anyone ever seen this before on one of their builds. The serial number is on the side and not on the top of the scope, I cannot see any weld marks or anything that makes me think this was once cut and shut so to speak, have I stumbled on something quite unique? Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) Isn't that part screwed on, and it might just have ended up on the side because it was grooved a little different? I don't have a real scope myself so I'm just guessing really. Nice find anyway! Edited October 23, 2011 by Locitus Quote
Marv Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Posted October 23, 2011 The screws are in the correct position on the side, you can just see them on one of the pictures earlier in the thread. I think they're to do with the lens, though don't quote me on that as I do not know. I think this end bit is part of the cast? Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 I was thinking of the round eye-piece being screwed on, but maybe it isn't? Quote
Marv Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Posted October 23, 2011 Pretty much every scope I've seen be it M38/M40/M47 or the A series of these and M77A are all on the top? Quote
Lichtbringer Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 Just checked my M38 1943 No.7, and it´s numbers are on it´s top. And you are right, the "rearbell" is part of the casting, nothing loose or adjustable. Damn, one day i need to grab a real M19, too. Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 Thanks for clearing that up. Quote
Marv Posted November 28, 2011 Author Report Posted November 28, 2011 Well its been a while but my build is now under steam once again. A huge thank you to Mathias (Locitus) for putting me in touch with Joerg at Blastech Armory. Joerg made me the basic cylinders, and as you can see I've just got to do the final adjustments to get this finished. I think you'll agree they wicked, and I simply cannot wait to get these attached to my Sterling. A little adjustment needed here... My other arrival today... Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted November 28, 2011 Report Posted November 28, 2011 Wow, those turned out fantastic! Did you trill the holes for the capacitors yourself? Quote
Marv Posted November 28, 2011 Author Report Posted November 28, 2011 No I spoke to Joerg his dad actually made them up, but I requested he left the cylinders off. I had wanted a cut out piece at the back but he was unable to do that so I went with the three drill hole configuration. They probably need slight adjustment of about 1/2mm which I'll try and do over the weekend just to help the ends pass through nicely. I think that I'll also trim the wires at the back too, right down to the ends. Another thing I need to address is how they'll attach. I had assumed the material would be magnetic so I was surprised to find that it was not. I'll glue the magnets to the base. One question I have is where would the coils attach I thought I'd read somewhere that it wasn't necessarily into the cylinders themselves? Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted November 28, 2011 Report Posted November 28, 2011 (edited) I'd say that the 3 center caps should extend past the back plate so that the scale in front has a few MM open space before the wires enter the baseplate. the coils of wire are linked in series attaching to the body of the hengstler below the pins then 4 coils of wire around a pencil, then running in series to the outside. look how the path goes from inside to outside? the front of the inside wire curls around to the back outside cap, then coils on the outside from the front going backwards to the outside mounting location on the hengstler. so the way I see it:: inside from hengstler coil forward 4 loops. curve to outside attaching to outboard cap rear. end of wire (green insulation) coil forward 4 loops back to the mounting point on the hengstler. (red wire insulation) silver blobs of solder at hengstler mounting points and on back of outboard capacitor. Edited November 28, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote
Marv Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Posted November 30, 2011 Made a little progress today, and things are beginning to take shape quite nicely now: Quote
Marv Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Posted March 18, 2012 Well its been a while but after a really long period of time, and better later than never, I've finally started to paint the scope rails and counter parts tomorrow if the weather holds they'll get their first coat of black Quote
MartinSivertsen[501st] Posted March 19, 2012 Report Posted March 19, 2012 (edited) I love the look of primed parts, they have so much innate potential! Looks AWESOME by the way Edited March 19, 2012 by MartinSivertsen Quote
Marv Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Posted March 20, 2012 (edited) And now in Black... I'm getting a new Camera this week so I'll try and get some pictures posted of this thing in 3D Edited March 20, 2012 by Marv Quote
ZeroRoom[TK] Posted March 20, 2012 Report Posted March 20, 2012 Oh man - this is where we need the *drool* emoticon.... That looks so good - it's literally as screen accurate as you could get. Plus I love your swappable scopes. I'm jealous in the best possible way! Quote
Eldrik Posted March 21, 2012 Report Posted March 21, 2012 Really awesome work!!! @John how did you fix the T-Tracks on the Sterling? Did you use super glue or another compound? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.